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Millar's
Millar's is an extensive bouldering area with plenty of well featured granite. Features over 100 problems, with a great variety of scoops, flakes, crimps, slopey slabs, mantles and well as a few cracks |
Approach Boulders
Scattered boulders on the approach |
Approach Boulders |
Hank's Problem
Small black boulder on the left as you come to the first slab clearing of the approach. |
V6/7
★★ Slime
Face problem to sloper topout. Hard to find boulder on the left in the trees beyond Hank's Problem. |
V0 - 2
Goyder's Problems
Five problems on a boulder to the right on the approach. |
Mini Me Boulders |
Mini Me Boulders |
V1
Problem #4
Sit start into crack then topout. |
V1
DILLIGAF
Sit start the arete. |
V2
★ Loven Feelen
Sit start the prominent arete. |
V0
★ Book Corner
Open book corner. Up with nice stemming |
V2
Problem #8
Mantle problem on the north side of the boulder (nearest to Book Corner) |
V1
Problem #9
Obvious crack |
Project (#10)
Traverse left to right on obvious thin crack. |
Shambala Boulders |
Shambala Boulders |
V2
Problem #1
Sit start under the scoops, trend left. |
V2
★ In the beginning
Huecos and up |
V1
★ Unnamed #3
Slab and arete. |
V0
Descent
Slab. more just the way down for the other problems.. |
V1
Bush Dump
Stand start on obvious horn. |
V7/8
★ Bush Dump, sit
Sit start on creaky flake. Up and left to join the stand |
V7
★★★ Shambala
Sit start on scoop and work through good scoops to a powerful move at the lip. Up the slab to finish. Classic. |
V6
★★ Comp Problem
Start at for shambala on the scoop. Trend right to crimp and up good flake. |
Bala extension proj
Start as for #7 and head left to link into 'Bala Sit'. Adds some pump... |
V11
★★★ Bala Sit
Sit start on scoop as for shambala and trend left in the roof to crimps on the nose of the boulder. One of the best bits of steep granite in the state. Low percentage crux. A classic. Stand ~V10ish. https://vimeo.com/28345305 |
V9/10
★★ Bala Stand
Stand start with right hand pinch and left hand crimp. |
V7
★★★ Comp Extension
Start on the left of the boulder and traverse right to the flake on the underclings. |
V3
#7
Crimps and up trending left. Sit start a bit harder. |
V4
★★ Known Unknowns
Sit start on the two small lowest crimps, up through edges on the left face. https://youtu.be/Nenp-Ngyq2g?t=107 |
V6
Problem #9
Sit start. Up the face. Stand V2. |
V0
★ Puddle Jumper
Up through scoops. Fun warm up. |
V1
★★ Puddle Jumper, Sit
Sit start on slopey holds, avoid the cracked off piece on the right for feet. |
Main Area |
Main Area |
V0
Problem #13
Crack on right side |
V4
Mantle-KO
Jump to slope and mantle |
Project mantle
Jump to dish for a hard mantle. |
V2
Boulder Five Problem
Stand start on the right arete |
V5
Boulder Five Problem sit start
Sit start on the left and traverse the seam rightwards to join the stand |
V2
Dyno Thingy
Left arete |
V0 Offwidth |
V2
Chasm Arete
Blunt arete in the chasm |
V8
★★ In Your Dreams
The face, avoiding bridging with the back rock. Fun if climbed in the right spirit |
V1
Chasm Crack
Up crack in the right of the chasm |
V0
#11
Mantle the small boulder right of Dyno Thingy. |
V1
Ben's Mantle
Mantle on large boulder off groudd |
V2 Roof Crack |
V0
#14
High but easy crack |
V4
#15
Slab. |
V3
★★ Dog Boulder
Sit start and up right. Hard for the grade. https://youtu.be/Nenp-Ngyq2g |
V3
Mantle 1
Jump to scoop and mantle |
V1
Mantle 2
Around to the right |
V7
★★★ The Schnauzer
Sit start. Up through the middle of the 'nose'. Facey and slopey. https://youtu.be/Nenp-Ngyq2g?t=193 |
Backdoor Boulders
Small jumble of boulders behind the main area. |
Backdoor Boulders |
V2/3
★ Swedish Powerhouse
Stand Start. Thin face left of the crack |
V2
★★ Nerd Gate
Obvious crack. https://youtu.be/Nenp-Ngyq2g?t=68 |
V1/2
★★ The Backdoor Arete
Highball arete in the corner. Simple, but scary. |
Problem #38
Seam? Vhard |
V1
Unnamed
Up the obvious edges on the slab. |
VB
★ Slab
Slab opposite 'nerd gate' |
V5
Problem #42
Located on the back of the slab facing 'Nerd Gate'. Contrived - V5 eliminating the arete. V1 with arete. |
V1
Problem #43
Located on the back of the slab facing 'Nerd Gate'. Up the face left of Problem #42 |
Traverse of The Gods
100m north east of the main area |
Traverse of The Gods |
V2
Ungodly
Corner with a mankey topout. |
V2
★ Thin Crack
Up the thin crack - pretty cool |
V2
★★ Weird Gods
Weird sloper mantle and up. Cool |
Traverse of The Gods
Obvious cool looking traverse. |
Norwegian Sector |
Norwegian Sector |
V5
★★★ Norwegian Death Stare
Jump to the traversy arete and up. |
V4/5
Problem #48
Left of Norwegian Death Stare. Up on crimps and slopers. |
V2
Problem #49
Up middle of slab (above the Norwegian Death Stare boulder) |
V3
Problem #50
Arete to the right of Problem #49. |
V3
Poonkie
Start under rooflet and up. |
V1
Poonkie Face
Short overhanging face right of poonkie. |
V3
Problem of Weirdness
Up the groove. Scary finish. |
V4
★ Maxie
Slopey rail, then mantle. |
★ Don't Fall Now
Highball right arete of the large boulder. |
V2
Vmossy
Shallow mossy highball crack. |
V6
★ Peoples Problem
Rising leftward traverse |
Up Ya Clacka
Tricky to find - somewhere between 'Traverse of The Gods' and 'Raining Snakes'. |
Up Ya Clacka |
V3
Up Ya Clacka Direct
Sit start on the right edge then move into 'Up Ya Clacka' |
V2
Up Ya Clacka
Up into the roof, awkward navigating your way around the roof and up. |
V1
Up Ya Cracka
Crack to the left of 'Up Ya Clacka' |
Split Rock
Situated 150m east of the Norwegian Sector. Named after obvious cracked boulder. |
Split Rock |
V1
Split Rock/Kate's Crack
Offwidth |
V2
Problem #59
Start on flat boulder. Follow the arete up and left. |
V3
Problem #60
Up the arete around from Problem #59. |
V3
Problem #61
Flakey crack |
Labyrinth
Best accessed walking east from the Shambala boulders. Come around to the right of an obvious clearing then up the hill. |
Labyrinth |
#26 - not worth it
Crumbly overhang. |
V4
★★ The Fridge
Jump start up to jug then squeeze arete. |
V2
Corner Crack
Name says it all |
V1
★ Problem #29
Sit start with on obvious rail. Left arete and up. |
V0
Problem #31
Face right of ‘Love the Gay Banter‘ |
V6
★★★ Love the Gay Banter
Hard middle face. Sit start and follow the flake. |
V2
Problem #32
Layback |
Shallow Corner
Unknown grade. Up shallow corner. Hold is missing now. |
V3
Problem #36
Face/slab under large chockstone |
V0
Problem #37
Easy right face. |
V6
★★★ New Year's Resolution
High slab. Dyno to finish - a classic. |
V2
Problem #35
Well featured slab left of New Year's Resolution. |
raining snakes |