Routes as sport in Western Australia

starting at base of blah blah blah head up and right on the slab to the first hanger. follow past 7 bolts to anchors of twenty easy steps. a little tough but well protected.

Access route to the base of the crag. Find rappel anchor above Yaganing Slabs, just left of vegetation at the top of slabs. Rappel 28m, to anchor of Brilliant slab & Yaganing slabs, second rap to the ground. You can also easily access Pegmatitic & Narry mica routes. Fun multipitch out of the crag via Access route- 4 fixed hangers, very easy slab.

The line of the crag. Fine steep face and slab climbing on great rock with Druid OH&S approved bolts. Delicate little moves and delicate little holds. Nice.

Just right of PBP and almost as good. Grade 23 when the Cockatoos are bombing you with honkey nuts.

No carrots here. Layback then easy slabbing.

Boulder start then up the slab, easing as you will.

Heading clockwise around the main boulder from Jenga crack Hard project 25, 10m Please stay off

Please stay off Classy. Bolted at the close of the day and waiting a return by us to lead.

Rounded pleasant arete. Best done in mountain boots with a big pack of gumnuts.

Midway between Butter Fingers and Silence of the Cams is a new independant line. Great climbing, clean rock (despite the lichen/drip line) and memorable moves. Boulder up to the first bolt, suck in your belly and sneak carefully left. Up and then pounce back right (crux) and up to a good stance. A few more moves and the angle eases and you can romp home to Wreckage Ledge. Lots of fun. Could be 23. Who knows.

Powerful sport route deserving of a name. 2 carrots at the top to use as an anchor.

Starts up as "Urban Ethics" then from 2nd carrot go straight up to the bolt and continue on the wall staying on the right side of the arete. After climbing crux moves above 4th bolt finish up same as original.

Project - SG

Project - CD

Project - KVA

Project - KVA

Listed as "Project - AG", but likely first done long ago.

Probably around grade 16/17.

Project - JG

Project - JG

Project - GL

Climb state of discontent to the break and traverse across to finish on sweat pea.

First line on far left of amphitheatre right side. Steep technical climbing off the ground, past 3 bolts, leads to jug hauling to the break. Kiss the guano to an airy clip, pull onto the roof past another 3 bolts to the anchor. Epic finish. 7 bolts to dbb.

Soft for 24 ?

grade 22/23 ?

4 bolts and a 60cm sling to use as a thread

A route with no start and no end. The corner and face in the middle of the main north face. Stick-clip the hanger on the bottom BR and pull up to it. From there, free climb past 3 more BRs to lower-off rings. Maybe one day, someone can do the start unaided or even continue to the top!

The climb of the crag (Rumored to be one of the best in the state!), well protected but mentally exhausting anyway. Up striking arete at the right hand end of the main wall. 9 BRs (without hangers) and a double BR belay. Walk off to the left.

An excellent technical face climb up the pocketed face right of Cardiac Arete. Difficulties increase as one gets higher. 5 BRs and DBB belay up the far side of the water runnel. To descend, walk west to cairn, then to the right, down bushy gully and slab. This descent is not possible in wet conditions.

Start 5 m left of El Coño and follow the right-trending line of 5 bolts to the top. Pull up, stretch and clip 1st BR. Gain the one good undercling and move R strenuously to clip 2nd BR. Gaston and crank past the crux to an excruciatingly painful finger pocket and 3rd BR. Another crank to a slopey ledge and 4th BR. Up water runnel with crumbling crystals on R to reach DBB 5m back. Rested on bolts 2 & 3 on the first ascent. Will go free at about grade 25/26 to a tall hardman.

The bolted line between the two caves on the buttress to the left of the decayed overhangs. 5BR to DBB.

Someone sunk 3 bolts into the wet slimy face/prow 6 m R of Unamed. The reddish brown ripples have a peculiar affinity for moisture…..

First crux of Glass Slipper then traverse to finish up Homophobia / Flash Gordon. Other options available (Homophobia Original, She Magic...)

6m left of BBMF. For more see Perth Rock 2nd Ed (2013)

See Perth Rock 2nd Ed (2013)

See Perth Rock 2nd Ed (2013)

Not actually on the Solstice Boulder - when facing BoB, Skate Ramp is 6m up the gully behind you.

No stepping R of arete, no using big block to left. Contrived.

As per Perth Rock CLimbing 2nd Ed.

Ascend the North side of the balancing egg-like rock. One bolt

Start up Urban Ethics then branch left into Star Wars. The more common way of doing Star Wars since the rockfall

Link Black Ambience into Rogue State (Perhaps a more obvious start to Rogue State)

The slab with 2BR. J. Truscott, M. Rosser, N. Gledhill 31 Aug 03

Old Gary Matier project 10m left of the big tree near ringworld. The climb is called Old Fusion grade 27 2pb to lower offs. Hope you enjoy Jay.

The overhang on the detached buttress at the LHE of Wungong Slab. 2BR then top-out. Sequency pull-ups, knee bars and heel hooks.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wungong-slab/

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/buckle-up-spanky/

Start from the obvious ledge between ‘There she blows’ and ‘Dances on fire’

Make a hard start from the thing that looks like a hold but probably isn’t, then up the black wall, continue on sustained thin edges straight up the headwall to a 2b belay

Start from the ramp 5m downhill of Le Esperance. From an obvious large foot hold make thin moves left up to the super giant hueco, trend right then direct to the top past big holes. Belay as for Le Esperance. Ed Nepia 26.1.11

Start up SOD to the obvious break at mid-height. Instead of heading left of the arete as for SOD, break right (and cross the line of Black Ambiance) and head up the obvious leaning corner feature using both the face and the arete of the corner to an exciting finish.

Lower-offs at the top can also be used for neighbouring Animalistic Rage, which has not had lower-offs to date.

WARNING: Same issues surrounding rockfall as the rest of this section of wall (I believe this has lost at least one bolt since the FA)

Logan's description:

"Got the project up the middle of Skywalker wall yesterday (7/3/2011). It was chipped and equipped by Mark Wilson and i got his permission to do it. It starts left of skywalker and goes up the thin face to where the corner block of skywalker used to be. It then goes through the overlap and finishes up premature evacuation. It is awsome technical fingery climbing and a full 30m. Gives your forearms a good pump. Needs some others to attempt it to give an idea of grade as i am not too sure. Could be 28 or 29 but i am leaning towards 29.:

https://loganclimbsrocks.blogspot.com/2011/03/death-star-29-mountain-quarry-perth.html

A free version of Learning to Fly (though the exact line goes more straight up than LTF)

Logan's description in 2011:

"Finally freed the direct line of bolts Richard kindly put in straightening out Learning to Fly 23 (A0) on the back wall of Mountain Quarry. Has a pretty hard boulder prob at the start (where the A0 move is on LTF) and then another hard boulder at about 3/4 height where the line has been punched straight up over a triangle feature instead of traversing way around right. Hard to grade since its really just two seperate problems which felt about V6/7/8ish? each to me. Be good to hear some comments from others who have tried it."

https://loganclimbsrocks.blogspot.com/2011/05/unchipped-route-in-perths-big-chip-and.html

Optional (recommended) gear before first bolt

Shares first bolt with 'The Golden Rule' (trend right)

Shares first bolt with 'Friend of Easy' (trend left)

A long traverse on existing climbs.

Starting from the base of Penthouse, traverse diagonally right all the way across the wall up to the ring bolts of ‘Bumble Sea’. There are about 10 bolts, but with quite a run-out in the middle under the large blast-hole. If you want to, use a long sling (3 metres) and the the bolt in the blast-hole and then come down again. Maybe I’ll put a bolt in someday…

Crux is the last few moves from about the Bumble Aye line up to the ring-bolts, about grade 18 if you keep in the direct line and don’t wimp out and use the stuff right in the corner.

‘Not the Wurst!’ 40 m, grade 18, Phillip and Tracy, and Andvariousothers shouting comments…errr… encouragement in the background.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-climb-at-mq/

To the North of the main cliff of Bob's Hollow sits a smaller cave with 2 bolted lines along its lip (Lay No Waste 24 and Tiger In The Cave 23). These are not part of the area of Bob's where climbing is allowed and should not be climbed (This restriction extends to all Limestone walls in the area - inc. Golgotha).

"For all other areas, prohibiting climbing on limestone other than Bob‘s Hollow. Climbing at Bob‘s Hollow will be restricted to the southern section of the cliff and will be subject to regular geotechnical assessment. If conditions change in the future, the site may be closed to climbing. Use of Bob‘s Hollow by organised groups or groups with dependant participants will not be permitted."

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-routes-at-bobs-hollow/

To the North of the main cliff of Bob's Hollow sits a smaller cave with 2 bolted lines along its lip (Lay No Waste 24 and Tiger In The Cave 23). These are not part of the area of Bob's where climbing is allowed and should not be climbed (This restriction extends to all Limestone walls in the area - inc. Golgotha).

"For all other areas, prohibiting climbing on limestone other than Bob‘s Hollow. Climbing at Bob‘s Hollow will be restricted to the southern section of the cliff and will be subject to regular geotechnical assessment. If conditions change in the future, the site may be closed to climbing. Use of Bob‘s Hollow by organised groups or groups with dependant participants will not be permitted."

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-routes-at-bobs-hollow/

*Blazing guns(21)12m– Great little line! Corner on the far right hand side of the face 1 metre left of the corner. Pull up on the vertical crack line and crimps. Head directly up using horizontal breaks and shallow pockets. Very sustained and balancy 5 BR(need hangers). DBB on the top as for DIO. D. Reed & P. Maher Nov 2013

One Small Step For Man (17)9m- Start 5m right of water runnel on small ground level flake. Balancing moves straight up the face using small cripms and orange coloured horizontal breaks. 3 BR(need hangers) and DBB as for DIO. D. Reed Oct 2013

Dish It Out(16)8m – Start 2m right of the water runnel. Blank start straight up to orange coloured horizontal breaks. 2 BR(need hangers).DBB at the top. D. Reed Oct 2013

Skinkter (19)6m -Start 2m right of HB. Straight up using very small edges and shallow pockets. 2 BR(need hangers) P. Maher & J. Nevin Oct 2013. DBB as for HB

Holy Brail (17)6m– Straight up the rounded corner using the small pockets. 2 BR(need hangers). P. Maher 2013. DBB on the top (Need hangers)

Lord Of The Flies 12m 23** Start behind the fence left of a thin tree at the right end of the chossy wall between Left Slab and Left Wall. Whilst the rock all around looks terrible, this route features some good moves on solid rock with a tricky crux sequence at the top (4RB to DBB). Jonas Hollingworth – Jan 14

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/two-new-routes-at-welly-dam/

Below the end of the skywalk, up the arete. A project bolted by Logan Barber. I believe he might be happy for anyone to have a go, but best check with him first.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/castle-rock-f-a/

Line of bolts between Shaved Cat and Mr Grey.

Logan Barber did all the moves but found the line to be a bit contrived and eliminate.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/bobs-hollow-2/

Free version of Green Beret

This section of rock is quite snappy and the holds may have changed since the FA

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/first-free-ascent-mountain-quarry/ https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/kates-razzle-dazzle/

Open Project, climb golden shower and continue to second anchors.

Lovely face climbing just left of The Antechinus. Start up the first two bolts of The Antechinus then make a glamorous traverse left on ideal jugs. Grab the quoll by the tail and make a final step up and left with finesse. Cruise up the upper face on crimps, incut flakes and foot jugs. Trends right after the last bolt and shares the lower off on The Antechinus.

Sweet Pea into Cardio Funk Link Up

Cardio Funk into Sweet Pea Link Up

Alchemist - Bulls Link Up.

Start up Alchemist to the jug rest, then go left to finish up Bulls

Bulls - Alchemist link up.

North side of last boulder/buttress. Starts just right of Antimatter Possum, Climb up left arete past bolts. Tricky stepup which could ruin your day if you don't get it first go.

On the furthest small buttress on the right of the crag. climbs right arete past bolts. Sequency. You know you are on a Perth boulder when climbing this

Start between “Shield of Achilles” and “Barren Awakening”. Stick clip the first bolt. Follow expansion bolts and climb up! Lower off fixed biner on 2nd last bolt and lower off ring at last bolt. Delicate, technical and surprisingly good climbing. No idea how this line survived so long without being bolted. Sneaky foot work will get you past the starting moves to a quarry classic mantle. Then a technical crux at the underclings where body position not biceps are the key. Delicate R&R Master slab climbing takes you to the finish.

Has a left and a right variant. Right variant climbs at 22

Climb straight up slab to first First bolt and then stay right of bolts until delicate traverse at 6th bolt that leads to a powerful finish. Ends on a victory jug at the first Anchors. The extension is an open project. It gets the name from a stream of water that came down on Henry at subset when the wall is in golden light.

Starting on the left side of the dominant scoop feature in the middle of the wall. Follow the ledge/flake system with series of laybacks, mid-sized jugs and crimps to the top of the flake. Use the brake to traverse back left to the 5th bolt where your can rest to get ready for the final 10m delicate crimp fest (crux), finishing on a couple of grades easier, but still spicey, slab.

From the base of the large scoop feature in the middle of the wall flow through a series of laybacking and stemming. Continue up the obvious feature through a technical boulder problem immediately followed by some powerful moves and big throws. Mantle to a good rest before the thought provoking sequence to the anchors.