Routes as sport in Western Australia

One for the bone crushers. Not sure if it's been done since a hold was broken off many moons ago. Great looking line on great rock!

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-31-at-bobs-hollow/

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/some-new-lines/

Probably unclimbable these days.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/some-new-lines/

The left hand line. Looks mega!

Steep classic line. Short bouldery section leads to break, then up through the steep via a powerful sequence to gain big holds, then long moves to the chains.

Cardio Funk into Sweet Pea Link Up

Visioned by Gerard Chipper in the 90’s? Equipped by Jarrod May in 2003. FA Jarrod May 2003. Once described as ‘looking like a pile of horse cum, but actually climbs really nice’

WARNING: Same issues surrounding rockfall as the rest of this section of wall (I believe this has lost at least one bolt since the FA)

Logan's description:

"Got the project up the middle of Skywalker wall yesterday (7/3/2011). It was chipped and equipped by Mark Wilson and i got his permission to do it. It starts left of skywalker and goes up the thin face to where the corner block of skywalker used to be. It then goes through the overlap and finishes up premature evacuation. It is awsome technical fingery climbing and a full 30m. Gives your forearms a good pump. Needs some others to attempt it to give an idea of grade as i am not too sure. Could be 28 or 29 but i am leaning towards 29.:

https://loganclimbsrocks.blogspot.com/2011/03/death-star-29-mountain-quarry-perth.html

A free version of Learning to Fly (though the exact line goes more straight up than LTF)

Logan's description in 2011:

"Finally freed the direct line of bolts Richard kindly put in straightening out Learning to Fly 23 (A0) on the back wall of Mountain Quarry. Has a pretty hard boulder prob at the start (where the A0 move is on LTF) and then another hard boulder at about 3/4 height where the line has been punched straight up over a triangle feature instead of traversing way around right. Hard to grade since its really just two seperate problems which felt about V6/7/8ish? each to me. Be good to hear some comments from others who have tried it."

https://loganclimbsrocks.blogspot.com/2011/05/unchipped-route-in-perths-big-chip-and.html

Good strong stuff. Possibly harder than Glass Slipper. Strictly speaking, the route finishes by traversing under the roof and up the arete to the anchors. It is believed that at least one hold has broken off since the first ascent, making it nearly impossible to complete the route as it was done originally.

The 'Flash Gordon' finish is more common but the moves have since been done again.

Climb state of discontent to the break and traverse across to finish on sweat pea.

Follow line of 3 RB up weakness and into pocketed face to anchor above break. New FHs make this route a little safer.

Open project. Needs bolting. Could be great!

On the section of blank wall between Silence of the Cams and Dickheads and Dynosaurs (directly below Skippy Goes Splat). Start up Inshallah to second bolt and head straight up wall on Fixe bolts. Technical, thin and awesome rock. Lower of leaver biner or continue to anchor above Inshallah.

If you like crimps and slabs you'll love this. Twitch up the wall past 7 bolts to a double ring bolt lower off.

Eliminate.

Follow Bustin' up to 3rd QD, where it "busts" out right. Stay left of the thin crack and go straight to the 4th QD via crimps then big moves on slopers. Finish as normal.

The common finish to 'Homophobia (Original)' is now typically done by going directly to the Bustin' Down the Door anchors (also known as Flash Gordon)

First crux of Glass Slipper then traverse to finish up Homophobia / Flash Gordon. Other options available (Homophobia Original, She Magic...)

Spectacular ceiling. A couple of bouldery moves.

An entertaining roof in the similar vein of the two neighboring routes (Root Canal & Glass Slipper). Steep start to ledge then up left to roof and finish just left of the whale tail. No kidding: stick clip the first bolt. Use long quickdraw for the fifth bolt.

start as for Grilled direct, after pulling the second roof, move left on delicate holds and climb direct up central headwall.

Links the start of Spatula man into Toy shopping via some large moves on stonka holds. Has one independent bolt. Finish at Toy Shopping Anchors. 7BR & DBB

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/spatula-man-toy-shopping-link/

Up difficult start to jugs, followed by long crux section. Elegant, powerful and sustained. Best face climbing at the crag and a Margaret River classic!

Follow the hollow flake up and left. Note that a large section of the flake has fallen off.

Old Gary Matier project 10m left of the big tree near ringworld. The climb is called Old Fusion grade 27 2pb to lower offs. Hope you enjoy Jay.

Start on left boulder, delicately traverse right and up toward anchors, can top out for extra style.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-route-stathams-quarry/

Thin moves up the middle of the face, crossing the break mid way (potential cam).

According to Anthony there used to be a decent blocky hold up and right at the start (now just a slopey right foot people use when going for the creaky crimps), and a glued on hold at the top to do the final moves. It has been 30 years since his FA though so he wasn't 100% sure.

Link Black Ambience into Rogue State (Perhaps a more obvious start to Rogue State)

Start up SOD to the obvious break at mid-height. Instead of heading left of the arete as for SOD, break right (and cross the line of Black Ambiance) and head up the obvious leaning corner feature using both the face and the arete of the corner to an exciting finish.

Lower-offs at the top can also be used for neighbouring Animalistic Rage, which has not had lower-offs to date.

Sweet Pea into Cardio Funk Link Up

Start at base tot he left and use good holds to first bolt, then ape your way to the break for a rest. Traverse with poor feet to crux then powerful moves to the top.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMIDRboCFb4

Free version of Green Beret

This section of rock is quite snappy and the holds may have changed since the FA

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/first-free-ascent-mountain-quarry/ https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/kates-razzle-dazzle/

On right side of face follow flake lines and drill holes past 5 FH to anchors. Stay off arete at top.

Another classic route following a technical golden vein of fixed hangers. Beware, bolts may be rusted. There are visible rust stains coming out of bolts down rock. May need to be re-bolted,

Best to stick clip first bolt

Climb straight up slab to first First bolt and then stay right of bolts until delicate traverse at 6th bolt that leads to a powerful finish. Ends on a victory jug at the first Anchors. The extension is an open project. It gets the name from a stream of water that came down on Henry at subset when the wall is in golden light.

It is dirty though, really dirty. Great climbing though leading to a great Dyno and mantle. Given the description suggests not using the anchors due to the razor sharp edges lurking below a rebolt (corrosion is present on several bolts) might consider a new anchor a metre or so left. This would allow cleaning without tearing your rope to shreds and without having to reverse a crux mantle facing a 7m fall! Smashing climbing though!

Linkup.

Straightforward to a thinky section and pumpy rail finale.

Chris Jones

Perhaps the proudest line on the cliff. Super steep.

One hard move in the roof at top

A contrived climb. Follows the discontious edge, dont be tempted by corner next to you. Sport route but trad anchor.

Steep and powerful boulder problem on a rope. Single carrot at the top if you look hard enough.

Short and technical climbing on small holds. 4BR & DBB

Start on left trending flack system 5m right of Firepower. Climb up jugs to first bolt. With lots of style and power, throw yourself up to the headwall and continue up to anchors. 6BR & DBB

Climb the face left of Bee Free with ferocity.

Thin climbing up grey line. Technical from start to finish. Proper classic!

Much harder than 26. Apparently holds have broken off. Probably harder than 28, possibly much harder...

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/stathams-development/ https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/chickens-26/

Follow diagonally right trending line of P's across slab then directly up to double P loweroff. 11 P's and 2 P loweroff.

Climb past three bolts on arete to tough finish. Small finger crimps, big moves and crap feet.

To the right of Emu Walking. Thin and hard

First line on far left of amphitheatre right side. Steep technical climbing off the ground, past 3 bolts, leads to jug hauling to the break. Kiss the guano to an airy clip, pull onto the roof past another 3 bolts to the anchor. Epic finish. 7 bolts to dbb.

From the base of the large scoop feature in the middle of the wall flow through a series of laybacking and stemming. Continue up the obvious feature through a technical boulder problem immediately followed by some powerful moves and big throws. Mantle to a good rest before the thought provoking sequence to the anchors.

Starting on the left side of the dominant scoop feature in the middle of the wall. Follow the ledge/flake system with series of laybacks, mid-sized jugs and crimps to the top of the flake. Use the brake to traverse back left to the 5th bolt where your can rest to get ready for the final 10m delicate crimp fest (crux), finishing on a couple of grades easier, but still spicey, slab.

Sports route 30 metres right of Voluptuous.

Batman upto first bolt. Medium cams required for top

Even more filthy than INRS. Every other bolt suffering non trivial corrosion too... lucky there’s so many! Boulder start to pumpy roof and face. Definitely 25 in current condition.

RB's on right side of wall. Grade 22 to final bolt and tough moves going left on non-holds.

Proper hard final section. Sandbag, but great.

'The Belay Challenge' - Just above head height when you stand on the big boulder below the route is an obvious ledge. A good dynamic belay will land the lighter belayers onto the ledge (Standing). Goes at 'Belay V8'.

Straightforward jugging to a do or fly finish.

Start can 'sort-off' be protected with a #2 BD Camelot. Gain break and climb hanging arête to a delicate finish. Anchor is a single bolt. Can rap-off anchors for Crankshaft as a safer alternative.

Starts a few meters right of The Power of Negative Thinking. 5BR and DBB

Head up pillar right of Dependence Day to reach steep ground. Continue up small pockets to a sustained and pumpy finale. The proudest line at Bob's Hollow and many peoples first 25. 6BR & DBB

Up and out of cave by squeezing between flowstone to a pumpy crux.

Superb face climbing on excellent rock. Bolts are carrots requiring hangers, small to medium cams and wires can protect the start and middle of the climb.

Two possible starts – up ‘Short Circuit’ to the 4th bolt, then step left on steep juggy wall and follow bolts up through thin, left tending crack on overhanging face (crux). Join with and finish up the last two bolts and lower-off of ‘Scoot Scoot Bandicoot’. Alternatively start up ‘Shorter Circuit’ and cross over ‘Short Circuit’ at bolt 4, 5 or 6!

Snuffle up Hammer and Tongs. Grunt like a bogan past the first hard move, then scoot scoot like a bandicoot up and right. Eventually, you’ll make it to the foodbag located at the jug. Wipe the crumbs from your nose and scurry past the last bolt to the lower off.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/stathams-new-route-yay/

Climb up flake system to where it blanks out. Big moves get you to a slopey ledge. Strenuous, delicate moves up sloping blocks, followed by a difficult mantel get you to the anchors where you can finally relax.

Stasrt 2m right of Bastchain Puller. Good rests after every move but still not soft for the grade. Finishes at anchor for Hammer and Tongs.

Start 2m right of Chips 'n' Dips at junction of grey and orange wall. Strenuous climbing up overhang

Start as No Ordinary Determination, but traverse left and go up arete to reach anchors.

Climbs the project between Phalanx and Slab of Utter Despair.

Start in groove 3m right of Running with the Bulls, and reach jug under roof. Extended draw here makes life easier. Move right and go up using some big moves to reach anchors.

Bulls - Alchemist link up.

Start at weakness directly belloe left edge of overlap. Crux is at 3rd RB (can be aided at 23M1). Follow grooves (can use small wires), up to a flake and upper crux.

Starts as for Luck of the Draw clipping 1st BR then move right to climb the overlap with 4BR to just below the headwall. Move left at 4th BR to gain the overhanging headwall. Swing into space to gain FBB. Keep going up until you reach the lay-down area. Top section has 2FBB and 3 BR to DBB.

Start 3m to the right of Helter Swelter.

Start 2m left of Slash and Burn. First clip is rather high. Delicately climb face past two more bolts, with a big move past blank section.