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Whitinbah Wafers

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Summary

Varied trad climbing (predominantly crack/corner) on rhyolite columns. Climbs range in height from 16m to 52m and in difficulty from grade 12 to 21. Routes are listed left to right.

Description

"The rock is well weathered rhyolite. The occasional loose flake makes a helmet a good idea. We have found slings useful on a lot of routes." The track down is very steep and route finding would be difficult in 2023, but well worth the trip.

"Westringia rupicola" is listed as vulnerable under the Nature Conservation (Wildlife) Regulation 2006 (Qld). It is known to grow nearby at the closed Poondahra cliffs on the orange rhyolite rock however Dr Olsen (botanist) has now confirmed that it is not present at either WW or WS. None the less there may be several other rare and vulnerable species as well so please keep to the established bush track and avoid disturbing the flora.

Note:
Ticks can be quite prevalent at WW so be prepared.

Access issues

This land is National Park, "Leave no trace" ethics must be applied.

This is NOT a restricted access area and rock climbing IS permitted as stated by A43 (page 17) of the QPWS Management Plan. Strategically placed RAA signs have been installed in the area including the start of the WW approach however this only applies to the nearby Poondahra area which is closed and all climbers must respect that closure. Do not venture further south of WW as this is restricted. Pictogram signs suggesting no access and no abseiling have also been installed however these have no legal standing in court. The Nature Conservation Act does apply and does have legal standing. If you're approached at WW by any QPWS employee please take their name, video the interaction on your phone and report it to ACAQ (president@climb.org.au), or if they are harassing you then call the police. Remind them that they are only land managers and are accountable to their own management plan and operational policy and that climbers are a valid user group and you do have the right to access and use this National Park. Decline all invitations or requests to leave or go with them as you have a right to be there. Remind them QPWS has a legislative obligation to support recreational climbing in this area as per s17(1)(d) of the NCA. They will suggest that you need a permit to climb however this is not true and is stated in their own management plan that climbing is permitted. Remember to be nice and respectful as your words/actions represent the entire community.

Approach

Approach update 2023:
Use the Wildside approach, it is longer but much easier and safer.
Old Approach:
Park your car at the dirt patch on the nature strip next to Cedarview B&B (-28.165248, 153.197235). Access starts directly on the opposite side of the road (looking towards the valley) although the first cairn has since been removed so just walk through the long grass down the gentle slope. There is no visible track but keep an eye out for a few small cairns along the way down that might still be there (or not) and then trend left at the end of the slope following the obvious very steep gully which meanders down through large boulders to the bottom of the crag. Extreme care should be taken after the first gentle slope as it becomes extremely steep and is very hard!
Be aware
that locals have been asked to call QPWS rangers when cars are parked (even though perfectly legal) at the dirt patch nature strip, so expect a visit.

An alternative and safer access can be achieved via the Wildside approach.

Where to stay

Binna Burra has accommodation as well as many Airbnb options on Beechmont mountain.

Ethic

Whitinbah Wafers is an historic crag and must remain trad only. Sport climbing is located at the nearby Wildside crag. Do not remove or damage any flora here, as this may be endemic to the area. As little impact as possible when climbing or walking here: pack it in, and pack it out. Leave nothing but your footprints.

History

History timeline chart

Discovered by Rhys Davies & Trevor Gynther whilst in the vicinity of the prison farm in the Numinbah Valley in November 1973.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

First route from left: A chimney. All routes listed L to R.

FA: Rhys Davies & Trevor Gynther, 1974

Start at bottom of obvious crack corner. Right under the roof, belay, then back left onto jugs.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Robbie McBirney, 1975

The hole leads to a delightful chimney.

FA: Rhys Davies & Trevor Gynther, 1974

  1. 16 21m the overhang.

  2. 16 8m The crack above the tree.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies, 1974

Start in the widening crack.

  1. 16 26m To tree belay

  2. 16 8m The crack (as for Jatz)

FA: Rhys Davies & Trevor Gynther, 1974

  1. 16 19m

  2. 14 19m Slightly right, then up.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Allan Stephens, 1974

  1. 18m 18 Good luck.

  2. 22m 15 The right hand line.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies, 1974

  1. 13 26m right to belay.

  2. 16 22m left to impressive crack.

FA: Rhys Davies & Trevor Gynther, 1974

Start in The left hand of the twin cracks.

  1. 16 23m

  2. 15 16m The left hand corner.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies, 1974

  1. 16 23m Hand crack to a cave. You can traverse right under the roof to avoid the grass trees at the tree.

  2. 17 17m The right hand line.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies, 1974

Jam Roll variant- a different start

FFA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies, 1974

Start up a solo chimney 15m right of Jam Roll. Deceptively steep.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies, 1974

Start to the right of Sesame Wheat

FA: Rhys Davies & Trevor Gynther, 1974

No description in guidebook

FA: Rhys Davies & Trevor Gynther, 1974

No description in guide book

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies, 1974

Start below obvious corner and jam up

  1. 18 32m To tree belay. Hard Jamming.

  2. 14 10m Right near the top.

Note: tree belay might not be there 48yrs on. One can otherwise just run the pitches together.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies, 1974

Three nuts for aid at 12m.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies, 1974

Start at The 3" crack corner (3 cracks).

  1. 15 32m To tree belay

  2. 17 10m Left crack.

Note: Tree belay may not be there 48yrs on.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies, 1974

Start in chimney

  1. 14 30m Belay well above the grass.

  2. 14 13m Up crack with tree at 6m.

FA: Rhys Davies, Trevor Gynther & Alan Spendlove, 1974

Up the chimney and crack corner.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies, 1974

  1. 17 25m The V.

  2. 12 22m Pitch 2 as for Cracker Barrel

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies, 1974

Start in the Chimney

  1. 14 30m p the chimney over huge chockstones to small shrub, enter the barrel.

  2. 12 22m Up in the hidden chimney.

A classic of intrigue.

FA: Rhys Davies & Trevor Gynther, 1974

Grade 14 51m July 1974 1st ascent RD and TG.

  1. 14 29m As for Cracker Barrel but chimney past the barrel entrance.

  2. 14 22m As for pitch 2 of Cracker Barrel.

FA: Rhys Davies & Trevor Gynther, 1974

  1. 19 39m Faaawk (sic). (bolt runner)

  2. 12 13m Right and up into the easy chimney.

[Historical Note: Fred From died on Everest in the mid 90s looking for his friend who had just fallen to his death. Fred would have climbed at the Wafers in bare feet, his way of climbing!]

FA: Trevor Gynther & Fred From, 1975

This route climbs the face of the main pillar on the Orange Box Corner (in between Apple Crumble and Crumble Bar). Sustained super crimpy hand/foot holds, push through the early crux then some pockets start to appear in the second half of the climb. The route meanders back and forth from the middle line of the face and the arete. Named after the delicious wild raspberrys we found on the hike out. Currently only available on TR.

FA: Fibonacci, Simon Eschbach & Dimo, 13 Jan 2019

  1. 17 26m Belay in the alcove.

  2. 12 19m Continue up the chimney.

FA: Rhys Davies, Trevor Gynther & Stephen Bell, 1974

Up left-facing corner. Left near the top, then up into an easy chimney. Eases after 15m.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies, 1975

No description in guidebook

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies, 1974

No description in guidebook

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies, 1974

No description in guidebook

FA: Rhys Davies & Trevor Gynther, 1974

Location & height of this climb is unknown at this time.

FA: Robert Staszewski & Trevor Gynther

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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