Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Tue 13th Jun 2023 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Tranzister | 40m | |||||
20 | ★★★ TDM | 35m | |||||
Mon 3rd Oct 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
17 | ★★ Helzapoppin | 45m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Astoundingly good trad slabbing.
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20 | ★★ Frodo | 51m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Increasingly thin. Awesome long pitch.
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Sun 2nd Oct 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
15 | ★★ Tupelo Honey | 42m | |||||
19 | ★ Positively 4th Street | 43m | |||||
16 |
★★ Conspiracy
1
2
| 45m | |||||
14 |
★ Absolutely Sweet Marie P1
1
| 58m | |||||
14 | ★ Absolutely Sweet Marie | 58m | ★ Good | ||||
19 | ★ Positively 4th Street | 43m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
16 |
★★ Conspiracy
1
16
45m
2
| 45m | ★ Good | ||||
15 | ★★ Tupelo Honey | 42m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Soaking wet in the crack.
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Sun 12th Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★ Conspiracy | 45m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 6th Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
20 | ★★★ TDM | 35m | |||||
one of my favourites in Wolgan. really cool move through the roof followed by sustained and super good finger-locking sequences. Didn't do well on the onsight but was able to send it on my second trip no probs. foot slipped a few times and I was hanging just on my fingerlocks - that's how good they are!
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21 | ★★★ Tranzister | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
not my cup of tea really. would give it two stars for trick and powerful crux but otherwise... some easy pre-crux climbing on average rock followed by not-so-cracky climbing along the sandy seam with some smallish nuts for pro (does accept a couple of good pieces though). Some might like it but I prefer long clean finger-size crack offered by TDM
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Sat 7th May 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Corregidor - with Hugh Ward | 43m, 16 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
22 | ★★★ Red Hot 'n' Blue - with Hugh Ward | 54m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
18 | ★★ Spaghetti Western - with Hugh Ward | 55m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 23rd Feb 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Crossing The Rubicon | 38m | |||||
20 | ★★★ Barton's Effort | 35m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
22 | ★★★ Red Hot 'n' Blue | 54m | |||||
23 | ★★★ Chrysalis | 35m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
16 | ★★ Conspiracy | 45m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 20th Feb 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Barton's Effort | 35m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
have climbed numerous times. one of the better face routes at the grade in the wolgan
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20 | ★★ Full Tilt | 55m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
great and engaging climbing. only done the once but would repeat.
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16 | ★★ Conspiracy | 45m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
a good expereince not sure i would repeat this i climbed past anchor on the right and continued about runout dirty corner to the top
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21 | ★★ A Spoonful of Sugar - with Hugh Ward | 50m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
17 | ★★ Helzapoppin - with Hugh Ward | 45m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 13th Feb 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
19 | ★ Positively 4th Street - with Alex Mantaut | 43m | ★ Good | ||||
Bottom half is awesome! I followed the crack all the way to the top, but wasn't really worth it. Probably more bang for your buck to just rap down from the anchors on 'Absolutely Sweet Marie'.
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16 |
★★ Conspiracy
- with
Alex Mantaut
| 45m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really cool, cruisy climbing! Did it in two pitches, I lead the first, Alex lead the second.
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Sun 31st Jan 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★ Conspiracy | 45m | |||||
20 | ★★★ Barton's Effort | 35m, 8 | |||||
23 | ★★★ Chrysalis | 35m, 11 | |||||
Sat 10th Oct 2020 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
20 | ★★★ TDM - with james ritchie | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Excellent finger crack and some tricky stuff out of the roof , great climb !!!
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19 | ★ Positively 4th Street | 43m | ★ Good | ||||
16 | ★★ Conspiracy | 45m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
20 | ★★★ TDM - with Ben Taylor | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
21 | ★★★ Tranzister - with Ben Taylor | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fri 9th Oct 2020 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★ Conspiracy - with Jenny Gao, Lis, Cedric, James, Ryan Armstrong, james ritchie, Ben Taylor, Katja Gavran | 45m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Climbed with Jenny Gao , really fun climbing! Did it in one pitch and traversed to the right to the next climb's chains for the abseil.
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15 | ★ Cardiff Rose - with Lis, Cedric, James, Katja Gavran, Jenny Gao, Ryan Armstrong, james ritchie, Ben Taylor | 48m | ★ Good | ||||
Nice route, quite hard start!
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Thu 8th Oct 2020 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Tranzister - with james ritchie | 40m | |||||
Mon 21st Sep 2020 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★ Conspiracy | 45m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
21 | ★★★ Tranzister | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fantastic
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Sat 19th Sep 2020 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★ Conspiracy - with geordie | 45m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 12th Sep 2020 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Barton's Effort | 35m, 8 | |||||
18 | ★★ Monitor Madness | 50m, 8 | |||||
Tue 1st Sep 2020 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Barton's Effort - with Ben Hanley | 35m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
20 | ★★★ Barton's Effort - with Grace Mackie | 35m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Felt somewhat bold for the grade with spaced bolting. I think I strayed a few times into the route to the left but just couldn't see any other holds that looked OK for the grade. Interesting technical face climbing throughout.
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21 | ★★★ Tranzister - with Grace Mackie | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Phenomenal pitch, mega-mega-classic. A contender for my favourite single pitch trad route to date. Managed to relax and really enjoyed myself on it. Great pro the whole way, 2 sets of nuts mandatory, if not even 3, and plenty of 0.3's and 0.4's. Crux sequence was more just pulling hard than anything too tricky, with really great fingerlocks for most of the head-wall afterwards.
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Mon 3rd Aug 2020 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Barton's Effort - with Peter | 35m, 8 | |||||
Nice warm up. 1x#2 is all that's needed at around 3m height. Rest all draws.
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20 | ★★★ TDM - with Peter | 35m | |||||
Best route of the weekend! The finger crack section has incredibly satisfying finger locks..the whole climb was just stellar! everything had good pro. Loved 0.3-0.5 cams. And lots of medium nuts. Only saw now from the description that I didn't actually finish it.. As I rapped off the chains.. Oh well.. Guess I'll have to do it again 😋
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21 | ★★★ Tranzister - with Peter | 40m | |||||
Exciting Fingery crux!
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22 | ★★★ Red Hot 'n' Blue - with Peter | 54m | |||||
Peter linked this in to one pitch.. Seemed to work OK. Hand full of of bolt plates and bunch of draws needed. Some stunning thin climbing with a technical crux that had me stumped. Figured out 2 dofferent ways to do ot. Beta:right hand undercling is key, then get feet up and either stay on left of blunt arete with higher left crimp or can also go centre of arete and Gaston out right to mini flake. Then, crimp on arete to get balance. Route wasn't pumpy at all.. But my toes were glowing.
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Sun 7th Jun 2020 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
14 | ★ Absolutely Sweet Marie - with Amanda Chan, Nicolas Di Campli | 58m | ★ Good | ||||
fun climb to warm up the muscle and your nerves
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16 | ★★ Conspiracy - with Nicolas Di Campli | 45m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bring as much big gear as you can muster. Quite long sustained climbing when done in one mega pitch. Bail out option to fixed hanger on the right to traverse to rap chains. Super fun.
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14 |
★ Absolutely Sweet Marie
- with
Tad Karapetian, Amanda Chan
1
14
18m
2
13
35m
| 53m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
As a few other comments have said, the overhanging section is a fair bit harder than 14, but I'm learning that's just the Wolgan. Super fun moves either way - P2 was significantly easier but still had committing sections, great lead by Manda. The tree to end P2 wasn't looking too good, but it's an easy link to the top from the rap chains.
Rap chains halfway are bashies that will need replacing - also be careful topping out! A ludicrous amount of loose rock, and only a couple of trees in safe condition to rap off. Step carefully! |
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16 | ★★ Conspiracy - with Tad Karapetian | 45m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
What a mega pitch! Was cruising and feeling great all the way until the final thin crack, just didn't have enough gas in the tank for the exit traverse to the chains on Barton's Effort. Will be back for this one - bring big gear! (Double #5 is useful but not necessary)
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Sat 6th Jun 2020 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★★ Ride With Ya Daddy | 58m, 8 | |||||
Did it as a single pitch
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17 | ★★ Helzapoppin | 45m | |||||
Fantastic route. So much more interesting as a mixed route than it would be if it were bolted as a sport route
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21 | ★★ A Spoonful of Sugar | 50m | |||||
Wed 9th Oct 2019 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★ Conspiracy - with Kimbo | 45m | |||||
Mon 7th Oct 2019 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
20 | ★★★ TDM | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
You sort of question your gear selection for a route when you already placed 6 wires in the first 8m of the route and have the epiphany that the finger section is yet to come. "Will I have enough wires? I still have like fifteen different cams though."
Cams couldn't provide the solace I needed, still my gut told not to commit to the roof without the 'wire' artillery. So I hung about, wedged in the chimney for 30 mins or so waiting for my mate to finish his Conspiracy and send a double rack of Arapiles's fav piece of gear. Oh the roof! Oh the roof! "No not the onsight". Disappoint ran down my veins as I flew down, been defeated. Arno Ilgner says, "A warrior never attaches him/herself with the goal." I would have probably had the goal tattooed on my forehead, if I were into ink. Probably THE MOST fantastic climbing awaits after the roof: Gear beta: I placed 24 pieces of gear in total and 15 of them were wires. Half of the remaining cam placements were the 'undercam shite'. I reckon this route can go entirely on wires. |
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14 | ★ Absolutely Sweet Marie - with Kimbo | 58m | |||||
Sun 29th Sep 2019 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Tranzister - with Andrew Serack, Marco de Jongh | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Did someone say better than The Janicepts? Easily one of the best trad pitches I've done in the greater Blue Mountains. Great gear, an exciting crux and some great exposure.
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18 | ★★ Monitor Madness - with Jeffrey Crass | 50m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Should have listened when i was told you only need a single rack! i think i placed two cams and a wire. Great climbing, though not as relaxed as i was lead to believe. Belayed from carrots at the top then walked right to the tree with the chains (above fat lipped?). Called it a day there and sought some shade. Great way to round the trip out.
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20 | ★★★ TDM - with Jeffrey Crass | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Another stellar line! Watched the shade dissipate as i racked up. A little run out at the start for me but on good holds, a couple nervous moments, one notable on a poorly placed cam which i couldn't adjust but found after one more move there was a good stance. Went to the single U bolt on the ledge to clean on abseil, in hind sight may be the tree would have been a but easier to clean from (i hadn't see Will's update to the route here and the sun bleached tat didn't look as inviting as the shiny ring). Trundled a block the size of an A4 ream of paper near the start. Thanks for your patience and direction in the cleaning Jeff!
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Sat 28th Sep 2019 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★★ Monitor Madness - with Alex Riegelman, Marco de Jongh | 50m, 8 | |||||
23 | ★★★ Chrysalis - with Alex Riegelman, Marco de Jongh | 35m, 11 | |||||
21 | ★★★ Tranzister - with Alex Riegelman, Marco de Jongh | 40m | |||||
Mon 9th Sep 2019 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★ Conspiracy - with Andrew | 45m | |||||
18 | ★★ Monitor Madness | 50m, 8 | |||||
Sun 18th Aug 2019 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
14 | ★ Absolutely Sweet Marie - with Brendon Yiu, Stephen Roche | 58m | ★ Good | ||||
Pretty good first pitch, avoided stemming onto p4s. Brendon led the second pitch of p4s by mistake which is a rubbly mess
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15 | ★★ Tupelo Honey - with Brendon Yiu | 42m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very long my goodness, was worried about gear but ended up saving my big gear for the end
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14 |
★ Absolutely Sweet Marie
- with
Brendon Yiu
2
| 58m | |||||
Ended up on the second pitch of Positively 4th Street instead. Super chossy and broke off a hold the size of a large brick.
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18 | ★★ Monitor Madness | 50m, 8 | |||||
Mon 5th Aug 2019 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Corregidor | 43m, 16 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Brilliant. Barely stuck it out for the onsight with an injured finger.
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Wed 24th Jul 2019 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Chrysalis - with Marty Doolan | 35m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Thu 30th Aug 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
20 | ★★★ TDM | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Wed 22nd Aug 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Crossing The Rubicon | 38m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sun 19th Aug 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Tranzister | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fell off the crux of this a couple of years back. Sent placing the gear today. Cruisy climbed up to a hard crux and then fun finger crack to top.
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21 | ★★★ Tranzister - with Emil Mandyczewsky, Ben Jenga | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Immaculate crack (barring a single loose block in the lower 3rd), though very cruxy. The headwall in particular is oodles of easy fun. I gunned up the start and the finish of this, but stalled out for an eternity at the crux, up-climbing and down-climbing before committing. When I finally did it was easy, and rad. I enjoyed this more than TDM, though its not as sustained.
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18 | ★★ Monitor Madness | 50m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Past tick.
Great adventure climb up a great feature.
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19 | ★ Positively 4th Street | 43m | ★ Good | ||||
Past tick
The fingers section was great but the sand above, not so good
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22 | ★★ Dien Bien Phu | 25m, 6 | |||||
Past tick
Another great slab, I vaguely remember some very thin holds
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20 | ★★ Khe Sanh | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Past tick
Really fun slab.
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16 | ★★ Conspiracy | 45m | ★ Good | ||||
Past tick.
Did this a few years ago on a very cold (-7) morning. Big trad corner..
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Sat 18th Aug 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★ Conspiracy - with Heath Black | 45m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Seriously major line with some great climbing and some gripping sections. A totally worthwhile warm up at the crag.
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20 | ★★★ Barton's Effort - with Emil Mandyczewsky | 35m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Went up it at the end of the day in the light rain with no beta to get the draws back. Truly awesome varied and improbable slabbing with a bit of spice added by the bolt spacing. I learnt that runout wet slabs are hard and scary.
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20 | ★★★ TDM - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First route of the day. Really awesome finger crack after the less than ideal start. Some of the loose seeming blocks are quite scary but after you turn the lip it is totally dreamy. Don't bail left to the bolts at the ledge because some of the more exciting moves are above that and for the full tick you need to go to the tree anchor!
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21 | ★★★ Tranzister - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Heath Black, Emil Mandyczewsky, Jason McCarthy, Jenna Brady, Ben Jenga | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Basically an onsight placing all the gear but there had been talk of the route all day and so i had a bit of an idea of what the crux entailed. In true form though everyone else's tall person beta was of no help to me! Really great climb but insanely cruxy. Absolutely eats wires and if you had a double rack of them you almost wouldn't need to bother with cams.
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23 | ★★★ Chrysalis | 35m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fell off the crux on the onsight. Sent 2nd shot but still tricky. Super technical and sustained.
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20 | ★★★ Barton's Effort | 35m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fell off this a couple of years ago after getting lost. Cruised it today, absolute classic.
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23 | ★★★ Chrysalis - with Will Vidler | 35m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Exciting in the intermittent rain. Would've been a very different proposition without Jason McCarthy and Jenna Brady 's chalk on it. Flash from the 3rd bolt up (I slipped off a damp hold going for the 3rd bolt, lowered back to the ledge, and went to the top from there... skipping the tree start). Similar to Barton's effort stylistically, but more sustained, intense, thinner, and demanding. Deserves more traffic.
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20 | ★★★ Barton's Effort - with Jason McCarthy | 35m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
No-beta flash, but Jason McCarthy had kindly equipped and chalked up the route for us. Doesn't look like much from the ground, but climbs brilliantly, and with some spicy spaced bolting that is just on the right side of sanity. Very technical, varied, wandery, sustained slabbing. Reminded me of The Belles, The Belles at Railway Cliffs (which is a good thing!)
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20 | ★★★ TDM - with Will Vidler | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Flash placing gear. 8m of brilliant and sustained thin/finger crack (that I found quite challenging), and lots of "pretty good" crack climbing. We really should trundle those loose blocks in the bottom 1/3rd to make it an even better route. I thought this was tougher than Tranzister (though not as good).
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20 | ★★★ TDM | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Placing gear but with chalk all over it I can't claim an onsight. I think this is better, harder and longer then tranzister. Great rock on this one.
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21 | ★★★ Tranzister | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The reason we came here 7 years ago (but forgot small gear) and the reason we came back today. Great onsight by Emil which set the theme for many flash repeats placing gear. Hard pull at the crux roof with bomber gear then good crack holds above.
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20 | ★★★ Barton's Effort | 35m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tuff warm up, I can tell I haven't climbed many slabs recently cause this felt hard. Great fun though.
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Tue 7th Aug 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
22 | ★★ Dien Bien Phu | 25m, 6 | |||||
20 | ★★★ Barton's Effort | 35m, 8 |