Ascents in Wolgan Valley

Lovely climbing. Solid hand jambs in the first section over the roof getting wider as you get higher. Cams are easy to place when ever you want.

What a classic! Swung leads with Tim. Finished and abseiled off in the dark. ‘Interesting’ proposition, especially with four of us one the two-bolt anchor in the middle of the face.

Pitch one only,managed to squeeze it in before dark. Felt harder than the knuckle to me but great climb with fantastic pro. Left at the ledge on the top of pitch 1 to the new looking rings and down form there.

Great climbing that takes a really great line on some of the coal mines best exposure

Linked the 1st 3 pitches as a giant 65m megapitch of dreamy, sustained corner-crack climbing. Became quite exciting (and moderately sketchy) with my relatively limited double-rack as I got higher and higher. A contender for one of the most "consistently good" crack multis in the Greater Blue Mountains area.

Climbed as a mega pitch from the ground to the double bolt belay half way up pitch four and 8m of rambling from the very of the cliff. The most fun I've had on a rock climb in ages!!! If you do it in this way, which I totally totally recommend, it is probably the best trad route in the Greater Blue Mountains area! Amazingly clean and varied corner crack climbing at a sustained grade for almost 75m!! You can have this amazing single pitch adventure with just one 80m rope which can then be used to do two bolted raps to get back down. I took a hilariously enormous rack (even broke out the gear sling) but you might get away reasonably comfortably with triple cams, a bunch of wires and a million quick draws!

Super awesome crack route with some wideness in the middle that I found super challenging. You don't need anything smaller than a #0.75 camalot but make sure you have two or more #4s and a #5. Absolutely perfect rock in the lower half!

Mega line, Mega exposure I felt it was spot on at the grade a must do for aspiring trad leaders. 9 hrs car to car.

Just did P1. Really epic V-Corner.

just first pitch. thoroughly enjoyed the chimney bit near the top.

Camalot 4s essential, a 5 is optional

Lead pitches 1 and 2 together. 0.5 Camalots very useful on pitches 1 and 3.

Very good fingertips corner crack. We cleaned a lot of the sand off it...

Only pitch 1. Holy shit this route is nails for 18! In true Wolgan fashion I reckon' it would be a 20 in the Bluies (similar to Solomon perhaps). This commentary is only for the first pitch since that's all we did, but yeah, quite hard. I probably could have used 3 .5's as well...

Should have listened when i was told you only need a single rack! i think i placed two cams and a wire. Great climbing, though not as relaxed as i was lead to believe. Belayed from carrots at the top then walked right to the tree with the chains (above fat lipped?). Called it a day there and sought some shade. Great way to round the trip out.

Bloody amazing mix of climbing styles. And the last pitch delivers in awkwardness!!! My only concern is that a fairly big block (which is an important jug through the crux of pitch 4!) looks loose and moves a bit — if that thing comes flying you can easily kill your belayer...

Did it as a single pitch

I took P1 and P2 linked, Tommy Totem took out the top two pitches linked. Would highly recommend the link for some full value gear placing. Trailed a rope for rappel-first time and miraculously it worked out. Most relaxed I was all weekend.

Classic guide book author tooting his own horn, or perhaps just trolling gumbies from beyond the grave - a real dick williams move. 2 eternities? That's linguistically impossible.

Approach was cooked, as was descent. P1 was okay despite the near death experience but I guess that's 'Welcome to the Bluey's' for ya? A mild form of hazing? P2 was gross. Maybe I goofed it, but went straight up when twin cracks veered right. Run out on shit rock above shit gear. Not even totems could save us.

The top is a sandy, post-apocalyptic, charred, deathscape with loads of boulders and tree ready to hurl themselves and us off the cliff. Thankfully no one else was there-rocks were even falling without human intervention. Paranormal activity? Nightmare? Least fav climb ever? Today goes by many names.

First climb in the wolgan. what an introduction with the super burly start moves of this route pulling the low lip. Definitely thought this would be easier when looking at it from the ground. There was a section of nice hands, but it didn't last very long. Glad I had seen Grace go up prior and knew to keep some larger gear to protect the crack at the top, rather than have a rather long run-out like her. Don't think its quite the classic it's hyped to be after climbing The Knuckle later in the day.

Soooooo good. A lady ascent!

Just pitch one as the upper chimneys are a vertical sandpit but God damn,that crack on P1 is world class and worth the walk in all by itself. Stoked to have pumped my way to the onsight. Feels quite hard for an 18/19. Burly moves on some thin (for me) hand jams in the lower rooflet crux followed by some forearm/uppercut goodness up higher. Unreal.

1st, 3rd+4th led. Ben led 2nd.

Tricky one this , but excellent.

Great!lead in two pitches

Exposed jug run. Idk where it gets the grade. Good fun, lead in two pitches

Excellent climb! Couple of steep moves and a nice wide chimney section to add to the joy of the long and sustained hand jam crack. Could probably do in one pitch with an 80 m rope if rope/placements managed well.

2020 Sep

Fun pitch, awkward climbing up the ramp and then a largely unprotected offwidth/chimney to the anchor.

Only P1. Note: We rapped off the carrots - You can't rap here unless you've got buddies already at the belay, or you have to leave bolt plates/biners/gear.

Did the walk in, climbed this, then left. Well worth the trip. Take a #5 cam, otherwise the short off-width at the top is rather exciting, especially if (like me) you're rubbish at that size. Had to dig very deep to make it up clean.