Routes in Wolgan Valley

The arete left of Papillon, branching out from its first ledge.

The line of bolts (mixture of carrots and fixed hangers) to the right of Papillon.

Share with the world which crux spat you off.

The obvious line between the sandy choss caves. Rock quality is very poor in lower and upper sections. Take particular care with the "flake" below the crack...

Scramble up sandy crack to ledge and crack with loose sandy blocks marking the start of the crack proper. Excellent crack climbing with sustained jambs and locks on a slightly overhanging wall. Trad bliss for all crack enthusiasts. One long pitch to the top of the wall, and a small pitch above to top out. Rap off trees down the gully to the west...

A great slab, finishing at rap chains at 2/3 height. Mostly bolts but a medium cam and a long sling for a thread at the top are needed at minimum to make it safe.

Thin. Joins into the same finish of Khe Sanh at the halfway point (same medium cam and sling for thread required)

Major left facing corner crack. There is a rap chain halfway (rusty and not glued-in, but made of ~7 bolts). All the webbing at the top has melted through from the fires, and the trees are dead and dodgy, best option is walk around 10m to large living tree well back from the edge.

Be EXTREMELY CAREFUL of knocking rocks loose from the top (you will no matter how careful you are), the soil is incredibly loose (Mid-2020).

First half is some nice finger/hand jams but over the lip and after it gets real chossy unless you come out to the left arete in the latter third of the climb.

A long excellent pitch up an aesthetic curving arete that is mostly bolt protected. Bring a single set of cams between finger/fist size and a couple of long slings. Start on the little ledge above the ground. At the top belay off carrots - to descend walk 10m right to chains around large tree (50m rap - two ropes required).

great climbing

THE big corner on the left side of the main wall. Apart from the grunty start it's got a surprising amount of similarly graded climbing the whole way. Its a nice long single pitch if you have enough rack.

It is also posssible to exit traverse to the chains on Barten's efforts below the top. If you top out you can rap about 5m from a tree at the top of the cliff to the chains.

very close to conspiracy, good climbing

Great sustained face climbing.Start up ramp at BE initials to horizontal (med slcd's) then onto face and up passing 7FH's and one BR , veering right at top to original chains and u-bolt. Rebolted Sept. 2014 (previously 8mm dynas).

Excellent, sustained, varied face climbing on hard water polished stone. Start 7m R of Bartens Effort at large tree. Bridge up tree , clip BR and up to ledge. Thin moves lead left to a desperate mantle. Straight up wall to another hard section by 6th BR. Then left 1m to large hold and fire up wall on small incuts to top. 6BR , 5FH , 2BB + Ubolt. Rebolted Sept 2014.

One of the better finger cracks in the Wolgan. A superb climb following an excellent line on good rock. For the full tick you need to go to the tree anchor at the top which makes the route about 35m. If you only have a 60m rope though you can step left along the ledge to the bolted chains and miss out on some exciting moves above. From the ledge it's 31m to the ground - so a 60m just reaches on stretch.

ugly bolting, good climbing originally done in 2 pitches

Superb technical climbing up a amazing line that is really quite outrageous. Very sustained throughout but well protected.

Look for the rap chains 3m to your left about 5m below the top. There is another set of chains 5m above (!), at the topout.

A bloody beaut. Takes a lovely line up a big wall. Needless to say the rock is superb and clean.

A burly start leads to a seemingly endless pitch of quality face/slab questing.

The bolts are standard Wolgan relics, approach with usual grim acceptance. A true 80m rope will just get you down with rope stretch.

Sling/maillon anchor on tree. 16 bolts.

1. 27m to belay ledge (3BB).

2. 31m Exposed traverse right then follow the bolts up to tree belay.

Each pitch has 5 bolts. Descend from rap above Helzapoppin

Good, well protected wall climbing. Take wires and small to medium cams.

1. 33m up choss and finger crack/corner to tree belay.

2. 18m desperately L and up into corner

Start: Ledge 25m right of sandy cave.

1. 25m Corner and flakes to ledge.

2. 15m Corner to tree.

3. 15m Up to top.

Start: Right hand crack 20m right of Gollum.

1. 25m Crack then corner to start of chimney.

2. 30m (17) Chimney and out to lip. Up corner to tree anchor.

Start: 20m Right of Smeagol.

1. 25m (11) Corner, bulge, overhang to ledge.

2. 25m Chimney then to top.

Start: 25m Right of YL.

1. 30m Right crack to corner. Corner to large ledge.

2. 20m (14) Corner to top.

Start: 15m Right of WIAN?

1. 25m Corner chimney to ledge.

2. 25m (12) Left crack to ramp. Corner to chimney, around overhang to tree. Scrambling to ledge.

Start: 13m Right of SL.

1. 25m Crack to ledge.

2. 25m (12) Gully to top.

Start: 20m right of AR.

1. 25m Up to ledge.

2. 25m Up to top.

Start: 10m Right of AR.

Start 40m right of GGG.

1. 20m Up crack to ledge and over roof.

2. 25m Up corner to large cave.

3. 25m (20) Over roof to corner and top.

Start 5m right of WO on ledge.

1. 6m Chimney to ledge.

2. 24m Exit chimney and up to stance.

3. 12m (17)

4. 18m Corner to top.

Start 30m right of DM up on ledge 6m past tree.

1. 9m Crack to ledge.

2. 15m Chimney to ledge. Chimney to top.

Start 6m right of SS.

1. Up tree, onto wall and up to ledge.

Steepness heading right. Short.

Start: Above rap anchors for Catch the wind.

Start 30m right of SS scramble.

1. 12m (8) Crack.

2. 24m Gully then left.

Start 12m right of SC at base of slab.

1. 12m (7)

2. 12m Up gully to chimney.

3. 24m Chimney, slab, scramble.

6m right of OA.

1. 12m (8) Juggy slab to arete.

2. Up arete.

3. To top.

Start 25m TP.

1. 10m (14) Crack to small corner.

2. 10m Small corner.

3. 35m Chimney then corner to top.

Start 5m right of GC.

1. 15m Crack to chimney.

2. 10m Chimney to ledge.

3. 15m (13) Either crack to gully.

Start 60m right of S.

1. 24m Chimney to cave.

2. 33m To chockstone.

3. 15m (9) End of roof and up chimney. Up gully to ledge.

Start 30m right of DC.

1. 27m Left hand crack to top of block. Traverse left to ledge.

2. 21m (14MA) Up crack to tree.

Start 25m right MM.

1. 38m (19) Corner to roof then right past blocks.

2. 18m Chimney then past roof.

3. 20m To ledge and up chimney.

125m right of NRFC at the big chimney.

1. 25m Up flake, over bulge then chimney to cave.

2. 25m (18) Chimney to overhang, over bulge and up corner.

3. 20m Through overhang, up corner to top.

1. 15m (16) Although it feels a lot bloody harder. Start over bulge then follow corner crack to tree belay.

2. 42m (15) Up continuation finger crack to a small ledge before stepping left and following a wider corner crack to the top.

Start 6m right of NC.

1. 30m Over overhang, right to arete, up to ledge.

2. 45m Left to arete, up wall trending right towards cave.

3. 7m Thin crack.

Start 20m right of I.

1. 25m (19) To roof then up to ledge.

2. 18m Right along ledge to finish at pitch 1 of UC.

Start 18m right of UCSVN1.

18m Corner to roof, left to corner, around roof and up to ledge.

Start 3m right of UCVN2.

1. 24m (13) Recess then up crack.

2. 18m Right around arete then up broken rock.

3. 18m Left and up corner.

4. 10m Up wall.

Start 25m right of UC.

1. 18m (14) Up crack to cave.

2. 18m Crack to chockstone.

3. 24m Up crack then scramble to ledge.

A jaw dropping line. Walk from Newnes campsite on maintrail left of river for approx 150 meters then turn left uphill on obvious trail between two stone cairns. Wind your way up into a saddle and up and left you will see a large white patch of cliff. Break trail and mosey up spur to elevated platform just right of white rock and base of route (shiny bolts).

Starts just right of large white patch of rock, below prominent crack line. Bring doubles in the small size cams and a number 6 camalot (trust me , you will know when to place it). You can link pitch 1&2 but its a long one. If linking pitch 1 + 2 bring alot of everything.

P1.(20) Up to base of crack passing 7 stainless BR's then delicately up crack to small stance above good large wire at 25 meters. Belay is med/large cams.

P2. (20) Continue up crack 25m to semi hanging DRB. F.A built rebelay at next ledge though easier to just belay from semi hanging DRB.

P3. (18) Strenous moves to get onto wall employing small trees , up crack for a few meters then veering right on ironstone passing 6 BR's up to DRB on ledge. 65m rap from here to ground.

If accessing Upper Baldy ignore the belay at the top of pitch 3 (DRB). Instead, step left 2mtrs to BR , mantle and belay just above at new DUB rap station. (From here it is exactly 70 meters to ground).

Start Approx 100m right of M.

1. 44m (16) Crack then over bulge. Up recess and chimney, onto wall to tree.

2. 10m Crack to corner then to top.

Start 60m right of V.

1. 9m Up blocks, right to corner then up.

2. 9m (9) Up wall, over lip and up to corner.

3. 15m Up corner to ledge.

4. 15m Chimney and through hole in roof.

Access: Use Secret Swinger access track. Start in corner as for "The Chain", 20m left of SS.

Up TC about 3m to horizontal break. Traverse right (#2-3 SLCD) about 3m or so to obvious flake. Up flake (bolts) to big break/small cave. Continue up from cave trending R past more bolts then back L to bottom of flake system (hard). Follow wonderful flakes past bolts to small roof (#4 SLCD). Clip both bolts then up (hard) onto small ledge. Continue up shallow corner past more bolts to finish at the big tree.

Take two ropes to rap off the tree. There are about 14-16 "carrot" bolts with no hangers.

Start 20m right of TC.

1. 26m (16) Corner to cave. Possible belays into the cave on doubtful rock, or after the cave on better rock

2. 30m Over roof to ledge. Over another roof then up corner.

3. 18m Up crack to top.

This is a good route to access the 'Upper Cliff'

Start 2m right of SS.

1. (17) Up and trend right to crack above roof. Crack then arete to tree.

2. Wall to top.

Start 120m right of S.

1. 40m (19) Corner and flake then around blocks and up to tree.

2. 20m Ramp then traverse to wide crack. To top.

Start 10m right of P.

1. 40m (19) To block then over roof to scoop.

2. 20m Crack to top.

A good looking continuous line splitting the face, starting above a low pedestal. The good jambing runs out at about 40m at a small alcove which makes for a comfortable belay. Could be done as one pitch if you've managed rope drag.

Length from rap/belay tree at top to ground is a little less than 60m. Good access to Upper Cliff.

Start 80m right of G.

1. 40m (15) Chimney then over bulges.

2. 20m Gully then short wall to right hand corner and top.

Start as for X.

1. 20m (17) Chimney to horizontal crack then down to ledge.

2. 30m Left then up to top.