Routes in Wilderness Areas

The obvious corner immediately west of Pipeline canyon exiting the cliff-line.

Location lost to antiquity

Originally graded 17 M0

Originally graded 16 M0

About 200m right of the point

Major Aid climb on the left-side of the wall via a shallow corner in the smooth orange wall capped by a large roof.

Gear: 8 knifeblades, 5 Lost Arrows. 3 Baby Angles, 2 bathooks, 1 skyhook; Double Cams to 2.5 1 each larger, Rack of RPs, Rack of Nuts and tie-offs

Start: From base of major arching corner left of the middle of the wall

1. 50m (- M2) Aid corner / crack past bolts (from earlier unknown attempt) to DBB at small ledge. Thin Tie offs needed near end.

2. 50m (14 M3) Corner via BR andtie offs to narrow ledge, Tree and 2.5 cams for belay.

3. 50m (12 M5) Aid crack of left of ledge then free up and left to next ledge. Aid loose R-leading flake from L of ledge till 3m below shale band, Thin vertical crack via BR into shale then flakes, horizontals and bathooks tending L via BR to semi-hanging BB plus 1-1.5 cams.

4. 30m (15 M3) Aid through small roof then free up R along ramp to ledge. Belay at R end of ledge. DBB (one loose) plus wires and cams. Retreat from here would require tyrolean to previous belay.

5. 35m (- M5) Wall via BR's and hooks to left-most elegant arching crack. Nail crack then left across wall via hooks and BR's to reach flake, Up to HB - 2BB plus knifeblades,

6. 35m (14 M6) Slightly L for 7m via hooks, blades, BR and cams, then R via hooks to BR. Out through large roof via pins cams and BRs. (One missing -take bolt). Turn lip on large cams, then free wall to belay off cams and BR,

7. 20m (12) Wall to large ledge, Belay from wall behind ledge or tree on R.

8. -m (-) Bush-bash R along ledge for 150m to begin descent

Climbs right side of face, traverses left then charges straight up following vague hanging corner system.

Early repeats by Darragh/Peisker and McAuley.

Gear: large selection of pegs, mainly Blades, Arrows and Angles. Wires and cams, mainly small/med.

10 pitches 260m 20M7

Start: Right edge of wall on wide ledge. Start marked BG.

A must for choss'ists. Left leaning crack splitting right side of 'Main Wall'. Climbs BIG corner - Loose in parts.

Gear: Skyhooks, Double cams and wires.

Belays are well equipped with BR's and / or fixed gear.

Start: Left leaning crack splitting right side of 'Main Wall'

Great free route P1 to 5 the rap off. 23ish.

1. 35m (14) Easy broken corner to large ledge, turning small roof on R. Gear belay.

2. 35m (18 M3) Aid small corner behind ledge, then free moves L to main corner and up to belay. Free at about 21? Gear belay

3. 35m (18 M4) Aid corner to roof then free around roof and up to bolt belay. Free at about 23?

4. 20m (- M4) Up corner to chain belay. Last chance to bail.

5. 15m (- M5) Up corner to shale band then L across wall and up to belay. Bad bolts?

6. 50m (-) Down and L to wide crack. Aid through roof and beyond, then free up and L to belay on R under large roof.

7. 50m (-) Aid 3m roof-crack then free up corner to final belay.

GR 553218 2KM NW of the Annie Rowan Creek/Wolgan River confluence, west of mount Morgan. P1 45m 18: This climb begins up a broken orange corner (facing the river), up past a jungle ledge with vines back into the crack itself. Avoiding the small roof on the left move right into the next corner system . Thin, delicate traverse with sloping foot rail. Belay at major ledge approx 50m AGL. The 2nd pitch (approx 20m) is a great corner system with blank walls and a thinning crack (excellent small jams) around grade 21. When the corner steepens move right to jungle ledge. P3 (35m, 15) Traverse right (big exposure over roof) into next corner system, up dirty corner to belay off gum tree at the major ledge between the two summits. P4, 10m (10) Up to the lower summit (the main summit appears to have lots of dogy rock and not much gear).

Start at far left of halfway ledge at undercut left facing corner. Hard start leads to steep corner in awesome position.

Remote Trad climbing