Routes in Evans Crown

Start: 4m right of 'Lipstick'. The far right of the crag. Up over bulge. Natural protection

Start: Below the overlap - up slab past two pitons over overlap. Desperate start for a 14.

Belay from a couple of #3 or larger cams in break. You can walk off to the right or back through the Camping Cave from the first 5 or 6 climbs.

Start: About 2m left of Lipstick. Lichenous slab, no pro. FA solo.

Start: 1 to 2m left of previous route. Up lichenous slab, no pro, FA solo.

Done originally without the bolt or brushing! Up slab past one BR. FA solo.

Start: 2m left of VS.

Belay from DBB / chains.

Original without the bolts!

Start: Originally marked, no longer visible. 2m left of StW.

Belay from DBB / chains.

Start: Used to be marked. 3m right of 'Splat' at prickly tree. Up slab past 2 bolts

Start: 1m right of 'Splat'.Up slab past bolts.

DBB at top.

Start: 5m right of 'Kersplat'. Good Slab. No pro. FA solo

Start: Slab between Splat and Herd Instinct past a BR to BB plus tree further back.

Original without bolts.Up between Splat and Kersplat.

Start: 10m up hill right of the corner of Through the Looking Glass. Another hard start to a good slab. Up slab past 3 BRs to DBB and chains behind the tree.

Note: new DBB & chains can be used for 4-5 climbs in this area, and using them will save the long-suffering tree. This belay station can be accessed by walking around and through the slot to set up top ropes if you prefer.

Start: Chimney at the back of the terrace above 'Kersplat'. No pro.

Start: 2m left of Kersplat, on right of slab. Difficult start leads to pleasant slab. Up past 2 BR.

Original without bolts or brushing - FA solo. Up slab past 4 BR.

Start: 2m left of DW.

Chains at top.

Start: 1m right of TtLG. Desperate bouldery start off the blocks past BR, then at a more sane angle up pleasant slab past 2 BR to BB.

Up blunt nose and thin hollow flake right of Through the Looking Glass.

Corner to roofs, across to squeeze chimney. Big Gear!

Start: Obvious easy-angled corner in the middle of the Deckout Buttress slabs.

1. 15m Straight up low angled grade 3 groove or finish right with 2 move grade 12 layback to ledge. Belay at Jonestown DBB & chains.

2. 15m (14) Wriggle across top of block to the squeeze-chimney exit.

Start: 1m left of TtLG. Lovely smearing. Up a few metres on L of brushed streak, then step up and R past 3x FH to ledge & DBB / chains

Original without bolts.

Start: 0.5m left of Jonestown, line of new carrots just right of the short seam. FA solo.

Start: Water streak 2m left of Jonestown. Up slab past 4 BR to chain. Often wet.

The famous Swedish candy stick. Between Bloodbath and Sudden Impact. Head up past a few pockets and 4 BR. The carrots stick out for miles.

Belay from crack at top (4 Camalot) or use the chains on Bloodbath.

Start: 3m left of 'Bloodbath'. A one move wonder. Hard moves past the first BR then easily up the railway tracks past another BR to ledge (3 Friend and large nut anchor)

Ghastly looking, overhanging fist crack.

Start: Obvious crack starting on the terrace above 'Sudden Impact'.

Start: 3m left again. Slab and small overlap. A bit thin on bolts

Start: 5m down and left of Scabby Lizards. Up slabby wall past 5-6 BR to DBB & chain. Good sustained low angle climbing.

Good climbing up sustained, steep slab.

Start: 4m left of DMB. Up past 5 BR (2 with FH) to small ledge and rap station.

Start: Marked. 7m down and left of DMB. Desperately smooth slab - up past 6 BR to DBB rap station.

Start: 3m left of RD. An interesting jaunt, a fall near the top could be nasty. Up the steep lower section past 3 BR. Continue at a more reasonable angle past another 2 BR to DBB 2m L of RD's belay. Bring some brackets.

Start: Originally 2 pitches with an optional 3rd - the terrace leading around R to to the start of Chain Mail Crack. Better to do it in one.

The obvious chimney a few m L of RD. Through roof at 5m. Chockstone belay.

Boulder problem to arete.

Start: On boulder 50m NW of the buttress. Start 2m right of the SW facing corner. Desperate boulder problem to start. Stick clip first BR and fall upwards, moving R to the arete.

Sustained all the way to the summit.

Start: On West arete of a big boulder approx 120m W of the Deckout buttress. Bridge up desperately between tree and wall, then up past 6 BR.

Start: Near the top of the Coffin Hole 'Gully', about 10m right of 'Field Commander Jagusch'. Up slab past 5BR to DBB

Start: . From block on right edge of slab 1 - 2m left of MB, step left onto slab. Up past 5 BR to Mr Bubbles belay.

Start: 1m right of REN. Up slab past 5 BR to DBB. A 2.5 Friend is useful near the top.

Start: 4m right of GHtHHH. Up past 2 FH and over bulge, up face right of prominent groove past 4 FH and #3 Friend. Old bolts replaced by new FH.

From cairn about 2m R of GHtHHH climb slab past 3 BR to join top crack of 2001 Bilbo Baggins.

Quite nice. Start: 2m right of SDotT. Short slab past 2 BR, across 2001BB, up past 4 BR to DBB on SDotT.

A classic. Start: Scramble up the Coffin Hole for about 15m to the top of a large boulder - the climb starts here. Belay Bolt. Straight up slab past BR to the diagonal of 2001 Bilbo Baggins where you can get a wire in. Straight up again past 4 BR to DBB.

Good sustained climbing up a striking line. Start: 2m right of TOfE.

1. 25m (Crux) up slab past 4 BR (3 with hangers) to large ledge with BB.

2. 30m (crux) Sustained and thin slab climbing past 5 BR between Finger Tight and SDotT. After last BR, 15m of easier climbing leads past large ledge to DBB of SDotT.

Finish Retreat from Moscow by traversing to the far righthand end of the belay slab, equalising the fixed hanger on LBM and a manky 6mm carrot 2m left. Continue heading up and right along a slowly narrowing groove (2001BB) which eventually becomes an overlap and thin seam, clipping bolts on SDOTT, GHtHHH and REN and supplementing with cams (#1 BD, #3 BD) and a Mid-sized hex. When the grove widens and breaks upwards into unprotected vertical climbing, continue right past REN to the next major line of bolts (FCJ), and continue up this to finish (supplement with slinging bomber flake, and slinging shrub). Belay bolts well back from edge.

May not be a first ascent, but was done as a safe way of retreating from Escape from Moscow, avoiding any of the more committing climbs above, and with minimal gear. Despite the length and wandery nature of this climb, rope-drag was not a problem.

Start: Marked. 10m right of 2001BB. Desperately up slab past BR, then more easily up groove (4RP and small cam) to another BR. Move L, then easily up slab to big ledge & BB.

The first line up this impressive face. The obvious crack line leading up to a L-R diagonal ramp

1. 30m Up delicate slab with finger pocket to crack, up to ramp.Follow this R to ledge/ramp. BB on TOfE just before the start of the ramp proper.

2. 35m Right up ramp to groove and straight up.

Start: Obvious crack leading to diagonal ramp.

A really pleasant white slab.

Start: As for 2001BB. Crack until it curves right. Move left onto slab and up past 3 BR to good ledge & BB.

Start: On the terrace where DSE ends, directly above that climb. Can rap in from the top of SDotT. Straight up past 3 BR then run it out up the slab. Wander across to the DBB on top of SDotT

Sustained with a thin start. Start: 3m left of 2001BB on top of log. Fire up past 5 BR (with FH) then easily to a small ledge with DBB - rap off.

Good looking hanging arete.

Start: Rap in from top of buttress between FN and SDotT (there is a large boulder near the edge here). Cam belay on obvious ledge at base of arete. Up arete past 4 BR.

A classic long arete.

Start: Thin crack 2m right of TH.

1. 30m (18) Up crack and wall to join TH at wider crack. Belay in the groove from chockstone and and number 4 cam plus more gear around another chockstone further up the groove.

2. 45m (18) Step left to arete and uppast 2 BR as for TH. Then on up the sustained arete past 4 BR to BB.

Good, hard slab climbing!

Start: Step right 1.5m from the belay of 'The Howling'. Brushed strip past 2BR to bulge, hard moves over this past BR to stance, head up slab past BR to belay as per TH.

Classic!

Start: Marked. 10m left of 2001BB. Thin right leaning diagonal crack. Up crack to better crack and up to tree. Left to arete and up. Traverse down and left along ramp to belay. Right side of arete and up.

Please note that the climb has gone back to nature and is unclimbable. Pity

Start: 12 left of TH. Slab and up open-ended, vegetated chimney.

Sustained and delicate.

Start: 2m left of BD.

1. 35m Follow the blunt arete, moving L just before teh final steep section, then R again to the stance. 7 BR, some with FH plus a #2 Friend in crack low down.

2. 15m Slightly easier slab past BR leads to a very tricky finale over the bulge, protected by another BR. Easy walk up slab to stance & DBB

Start: 25m left of TH.Straight up to BR and jug at 8m, diagonally L to BR and jug at 16m. Up easing slab.

Sustained, varied climbing. Start as for TfJ.

1. (24) Up TJ to bolt, then straight up wall past 3 more BR to DBB at back of ledge.

2. 15m (24) Slither up corner behind past 3BR (BR at top protects second) and then walk right to 'Mr Sheen' belay

3. 15m (23) finish up MS p2.

Start: As for TfJ. 3 pitches.

Some neat moves.

Start: Thin open corner 5m left of TA and about 20m L of MS. Stem up against boulder to BR, then up corner to good pockets (nut pro). Tricky move around the next BR, then slab to rap bolts. 3 FH in total.

Start: 20m left of Bonsai Delight. 2 pitches up crack to roofs, awkwardly right to big chimney and up.

Start on the boulder opposite the curving, smooth wall up and left of 'Feanor'. Low angled corner.

Dec 2016 - deep in lichen

Start: On same boulder as Reflections, down and round L from that climb. Step off boulder onto slab. Up diagonally left for pro (desperate nut placement), then up dyke diagonally right past 2 BR to poor BB belay at trees.

Start at big curving wall down right from 'Passionate Pleasantries'. Up past and left to arete past BR & 3FH.

A very good slab route. Start further L from the big curving wall on some boulders just R of a gully in a corner.

1. Step right onto slab, up past 3 BR to large ledge.

2. Short crack then across to the mainland.

Start: Up left from the big, curving wall on some boulders right of a gully. 2 pitches.

Very pumpy for its length. An undercling going nowhere.

Start: Middle of the wall to the left of, and at right angle to PP. Stick clip 1st BR and a few hard moves gain flake. Undercling and jam to its end, and lower off the bolt..

Start: Obvious squeeze chimney on the western side of Goog Gap that faces Celeborn

Start: 4m left of P. Off width crack for 4m then right.

Once a test piece in EBs. Take big friends!

Start: 30m left of P in quiet gully. Right-to-left diagonal corner under overhang, across coloured slab to ledge. Scramble off L.

The inverted squeeze chimney / bum-crack above the Camping Cave. Starting at the back of the cave, chimney up, invert from a fist jam, stick your feet up there and shuffle upside down to lip. Cut loose, work around lip, then cruise up offwidth vertical section. Has been done in various ways using the full range of offwidth techniques, needs a few 5 & 6 cams for roof.

Hardest climb listed at Tarana, maybe the hardest "wide" climb in Aus?

Start: Left arete of 'Shagrat', reached by a horizontal crack which leads out of Shagrat about 8m up. As for S then crack to arete and up, getting protection where you can.

Quite a pleasant outing. Up the left gully on the main part of the east face of Crown Buttress. FA solo

Start: 3m left of Barry Dur. Up past 4BR to chain on Barry Dur.

Start: 2m left of 'Barad Dur'. Climb arete past 3BR to join Barad Dur at lip of roof. Left to chain.

Originally done with a couple of points of aid. Joe Friend freed this in 1975 and added the last pitch.

Start: In the L side of Gorbag gully.

1. Cracks to roof, swing left through roof and up to belay.

2. Cracks, seam and slab to large ledge, or slab to the right (4 bolts) and leftwards traverse to belay.

3. As for pitch 2.

4. Up overhanging crack in the little headwall.

Start: right side of gully, about 10m up and right from 'Shagrat'. Up gully / chimney. FA solo

Not very nice.

Start: 5 or 6m down left of SoH.

Climb buttress past 5 BR then when 5m above last BR, traverse right into SoH.

Much of the offwidth can be avoided by traversing in from the right. Some good face climbing when you get there.

Start: As for No Love Lost.

Stick clip, up offwidth past another BR, traverse left and up to 3rd BR, then up dyke past 2BR to chain belay.

Start: Clean diagonal offwidth on left side of Walloper gully.

Climbs offwidth all the way, #5-6 cams to start then narrowing. Potential to stick clip first BR of Sea of Heartbreakat 6m and continue up off-width to top of Walloper chimney.

Start: Big ugly chimney with internal moss capped by a chockstone in an obvious square cut gully down and left from Goog Gap. Up in whatever manner you see fit.

Start: Use cairn to climb left side of the rib 5m right of SoH. BB and bush to L.

This climb is wrongly identified in the Crag. Blue Train is actually the re-named Dyke. Correct name to be fixed later.

Up short wall, then follow the blunt arete.

Start: Left of 'Cirdan'.

Start: Below damp green groove starting appears about 6m above the ground right of Walloper gully.

Delicate slab and mantle to groove, then follow this upwards.

Supposed to have good wire and small cam pro but currently returned to nature.

Easy angled right facing ramp inside small gully.

Start: 10m R of Cirdan. Returned to nature.

Steep and technical with 6 SS FH.

Short wall and ribbed arête (dyke) on central buttress in the middle of Goog Gully.

Thin moves to gain the dyke, then easier up to rap station on top.

Renamed "Dyke (15)" around 2015 in the absence of accurate information.

Start: Right side of central buttress in the middle of Goog Gully.

Excellent delicate slabbing on clean rock past 5FH to rap station.

Renamed "Psyke (16)" around 2015 in the absence of accurate information.

Up blunt arete 2m right of Goog Gully. Al said he bolted it but it's never been climbed and he may remove it.

An interesting groove with an infuriating overhang. Andrew Penney returned to eliminate the single point of aid.

Start: 10m right of Goog 'Gully'. The left groove of two. Up short slab past BR into crack. Easily up crack, groove to bulge, hard move past BR to gain groove then up easy slab past two carrots to shared 2FH anchor.

Interesting climb up pleasant groove.

Start: Up right groove of two 2m right of 'Hotel du Lac', then pull into groove proper. 4BRs, then small wires to protect upper section. Shared 2FH anchor.

Start: 4m right of 'Jagusch Putsch', left of 1st BR. Up to dyke & ledge, over bulge, and up easy ground to shared 2FH anchor.

Start: 4m left of Celeborn. Up slab past BR to join UtNoL. Clip BR on UtNoL, cross, and follow short, low angled groove/ramp to where it steepens and fades. A few dubious wires are possible at this stage. Clip a high BR and let the fun begin! Blunder up past 2BR keeping left of cleaned area to a small ledge & rap station.

Start: As for Celeborn. Left to dyke, follow water smear over bulge. Left up wall to ledge at 3rd bolt. Then left to finish on BMDiL and DBB.

Start: About 20m down R from Goog Gap. Committing slab and groove to crack at 20m. FA solo

Good clean fun.

Start: 1m right of Celeborn. Up slab and overlap past 4BR to rap station on small ledge.

Up slab and overlap past some rusty carrots. 2nd BR is very high.

Start: 1m right of 'Honey, I Shrunk the Kids'.

Start: 5m right of 'Honey, I Shrunk the Kids' and 2m left of Optem Bop.

Up past 3 fixed hangers and a carrot to rap station or lower offs at 15m. Crux passing 1st BR

Start: 10m right of Celeborn. Middle of face over bulge (undercling hold) by BR, up slab to join NoR. Rap from chains.

Start: A few metres right of Optem Bop - interesting crux start followed by easy ramble.

Up past 3 fixed hangers to rap station or to lower-offs at 15m.

Start: 6m right of OB. Up short slab to crack (cams) and pockets tending left. Slab to belay as for OB.

Start: 6m right of NoR.

1. Arching crack, over bulge at end to ledge and L around bush.

2. From back of ledge, short wall to giant flake crack - up. Belay as for OB. 2 pitches, can be done as 1 long pitch (recommended)

Start: West side of the Crown Buttress.

Right to left diagonal across roof-capped wall. Then traverse.

Start: 4m right of of DL.

Steep hand crack angle that eases angle and increases width almost to off-width at roof. Tenuous at first then better. Belay here from chain around block, or traverse right into Lemuria's top chimney.