Potentially quite dangerous. Start at the splitting crack to the right of the big corner under the obvious roof. Up this to tree, better than it looks. Into corner system on left and up through limestone-esque cave features to horrifying shield. Gingerly commit to shield then awkward moves into chimney and up to bolted anchor. It would not be pretty if this shield dislodged with belayer below. There is a pitch (open project) above this that looks quite good, although it was too wet to climb it on our visit. Previous high point (just below shield) set by Brad Carmady.
First ascent: Hugh Ward, hugh sutherland & Bridie Campbell |
15 | Assigned grade |
15 | Hugh Ward |
"Old School" is the vibe we are after. Ground up if possible. Limited bolts, viewed as an extension of trad gear (maybe think carrots rather than rings). What's there has often been bolted by hand on lead, and should be assessed carefully before committing to it. However the classic "trade" routes have had bolts replaced with glue in stainless carrots.
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