★★★ After the Rain 18

Right up the main falls.Only climbable when the falls are completely dry. This generally only during extended drought. Start: Technically about 17 but some sparse protection on the crux pitch(needs RP’s). Take a full rack. Scramble up onto the large terrace directly under the waterfall. Twin cracks in a corner lead up onto the large pillar.

1. 25m. Up the twin crack corner on your right, to a large ledge with a large block.

2. 40m. From the right-hand side of the ledge climb up the channel using cracks on either side, then veer left up to a good ledge.

3. 25m. (crux) Up the steep open corner to a small (half metre) roof. From here step delicately back down then to the left, then easily up to low angled crack corner and belay.(#6 Hex in place)

4. 50m. Continue straight up the crack/corner, carefully through two loose sections, then excellent rock to sentry box.

5. 10m. From the belay step left then easily to top of main falls. (A long scramble, following the water course leads up to a large pool. From the pool move left and up through scrub to the gorge top.)

Old School.