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Obesity Buttress

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 15
  • Ascents: 253
  • Aka: Big Fat Fin Slappers
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Description

Striking triple buttress system with some of the best climbing the escarpment has to offer. Big Fat Fin Slappers is the classic of the area however a couple more difficult routes await those keen for a cragging session around the corner.

Access issues inherited from Wollongong

Many of the Wollongong crags are located in the Illawarra Escarpment State Conservation Area (IESCA). This region has had a chequered history in recent times, with large swathes of popular crags having to be closed after it was missed that a new NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service (NPWS) Plan of Management (PoM - 2018) had incidentally banned climbing along most of the escarpment. After a lobbying effort and a stroke of coincidental good luck an amended plan of management has been published (2023), modifying the plan to allow rock-climbing “… on the west- and south-facing cliffs of Mount Keira and on cliffs north of Bulli Pass."

Access comes with caveats and all climbers should be aware that that “… new bolts or anchors may only be installed with NPWS consent, and park infrastructure such as safety railing may not be used as anchor points as they have not been designed for this purpose. NPWS will not install, assess or guarantee bolts or other fixed protection points. Participants in these activities are solely responsible for their own safety.”

Given the pressures many rock-climbing areas have been under around Australia and the plethora of access issues that have followed it is imperative that climbers respect and heed the access requirements. Access granted can easily be access taken, noting from the PoM: “Locations where rock climbing and abseiling are allowed may be reviewed and altered to address safety issues, risks to visitors or impacts on cultural values or environmental values. Temporary closures of rock climbing and abseiling locations may be applied to limit impacts. Permanent closure of sites may also be necessary. NPWS will consult with representatives of the local climbing community before implementing any permanent closures.”

Please refer to the ‘Ethic” section for more notes on how to be a good steward for the climbing community.

Approach

Along the Forest Track, walk to (-34.262694, 150.959417).

At the "Warning, dangerous cliffs in the area" sign take the first good track on the right (roughly 40-50m past). This track is distinguished by the presence of tussock grasses you wade through. There are some smaller phantom tracks that are developing as people are turning off too early, please try to avoid making these worse, the turn off is further past the sign than you think.

Tie knots
in the end of your rope and if you're not confident in climbing out FIX A ROPE! We do not need any more accidents on the escarpment, Also, WEAR HELMETS!

In the worst case scenario it is possible to scramble out of the escarpment roughly 400m south (under the powerlines). There are basically zero ways in which it is a better option than simply prussicing out your fixed rope.

Descent notes

The obvious rap anchors you first see are the descent for Big Fat Fin Slappers. To get on the other routes here scramble 15m south and locate a couple U bolts in a cave (best) or the top out anchors for "Hecotes Perfectoes"(not as good). Fix a 30m static rope to these and rap in to the big ledge on their north (between BFFS and HP)

Ethic inherited from Wollongong

The modern climbing scene and all the access issues that go with it requires modern ethic and all climbers should familiarise themselves with general good crag etiquette to ensure access is maintained into the future.

The following is a short summary for the area:

  • The Wollongong area has a historical mix of sport, trad, and bouldering, with fully bolted sport routes emerging as the dominant form in the last decade
  • Do not bolt or rebolt existing trad or bouldering routes
  • No chipping of the rock to alter the difficulty of a route or create new routes. Loose or dangerous rock may be removed with careful discretion
  • Top rope and lower-off through your own gear. Fixed anchor protection to be used for final lower off only to minimise wear
  • Minimise excessive chalk usage and make brushing of holds a regular routine. Consider using alternative chalk colours to minimise visual impact
  • Do not bush-bash new access trails, stick to existing marked trails where possible
  • Do not remove vegetation, both from around cliff bases and on the cliff. Brushing down built-up lichen, dirt and chalk off existing routes is acceptable maintenance
  • Do not leave rubbish or gear at the crag. Gear left may be confiscated by NPWS
  • Respect any announced closures of tracks, cliffs and areas in the region
  • Don’t play loud music at the crag, consider the amenity of nearby climbs and non-climbers alike
  • Speak up against anti-social behaviour, unsafe behaviour, or other activities that threaten access – contact your local advocacy association - ACANSW
  • Rebolting shall only be carried out by suitably competent and trained persons. The minimum standard is 316 stainless U-bolt or ring eye-bolts with pure epoxy glue. Refer to http://www.safercliffs.org
  • Remember you are responsible for your own safety, and the safety of your friends!

Learn more at https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1 15 15m
2 17 20m
3 19 15m

Epic position on the arete. Top pitch can be used to escape the halfway ledge from the other climbs.

FA: BP

An amazing line encompassing some highly unique climbing for the northern Illawarra. Technical start leads to some interesting powerful movement on the arete, followed by epic pockets on the lip of the roof with uncanny exposure! Mandatory 60cm extender required for the roof bolt and a long to extended draw on the bolt just before the roof is ideal!

FA: BP, May 2020

Direct line following the Sweetness of Life arete straight up onto the thin gently overhanging face. Feels about grade 25.

As good as they get on the escapement, layback & jam your way up the obvious corner crack, lower off on the anchors of "Ration The Passion" or continue up. bring doubles in medium cams if you really wanna lace her up.

FA: Dylan Tubaro, Tom blanch, Wall & BP, 31 May 2020

Desperate start (stick clip the second bolt if possible) leads to pleasant climbing, punchy and interesting climbing out the left side of the rooflet. Shares lower offs with Comfortably Numb. Could be hard if you're short.

Excellent pitch of sporting goodness. Start off the ledge close to BFFS second pitch. Bouldery initial moves leading to slab, interesting rooflet and more slab. Lower off (recommended) or top out and belay from natural anchors or BFFS anchors (possible but un-ideal) .

1 16 25m
2 18 18m
3 14 7m

A massive overhanging beak South of Kenny's Wall. If you like exposure, this is the climb for you! Follow the track to the cliff edge from the main path. Look for rap bolts on back of a large block. Fix a rope and rap 46m to the ground and climb out on another rope. If you want to complicate matters. you can rap twice on a 60m rope doubled past the first set of double rings (this will be the belay later) to a second set of double rings at a large ledge. From there you can rap to the bottom. It is possible that you won't be able to pull your rope down after the first abseil. Use draws or slings to extend the rap bolts and make sure you have an escape plan in case the rope gets stuck.

  1. 25m, 8 bolts. Climb through some weathered rock. don't break the fin, skip the double rings that you used to abseil (if you break the pitch here you can watch the leader on the harder moves at the top of next bit), and belay from the 2nd set of double bolts on a ledge in the corner before the airy traverse.

  2. 18m, 7 bolts. Up corner to Ubolt then left and up. There is a double ring anchor on top of the hanging arete from which to belay the second.

  3. 7m, 2 bolts. The third pitch is just one or two moves to get from this ledge back to the rap anchor at the top.

Set: Leo Stanners & iBlom, 10 Jan 2019

FFA: Leo Stanners, 10 Apr 2019

Start up the First 2 bolts of Big Fat Fin Slappers 2nd pitch before heading straight up the thin crack. Fantastic rock and good gear #1.25 and smaller.

FA: Kai Buckman & Dylan Hill, 15 Dec

The good-quality orange face and verdant corner above the pre-traverse belay of Big Fat Fin Slappers. Requires camalots from #0.3 to 1, (double #0.75 is helpful) and a couple of medium nuts.

FA: Chris Wallace & Nick Roach, Jun 2020

Funky with rests, rap down 12m to DBB on Big Fat Fin Slappers. Arete around right of Stem and Leaf. Step left or straight up at top.

FA: Michael Law, 2020

1 17 25m
2 15 15m
3 17 20m

Three nice pitches of bridging and laybacking up big crack system, no jamming required. Rap down Big Fat Fin Slappers 40m or so to big ledge and walk a few steps right to thin corner. Take two #4 cams (large grey camalot) for the laybacks on pitch 2 and 3, or even a 5 (we took 2 of each).

  1. 25m (17) Thin corner then bridge around drummy block to ledge and around roof. At top of 2nd corner, step left onto wall to good red camalot break and wires to protect against nasty pendulum on exit. Wires to hand size gear on this pitch. Double ring belay.

  2. 15m (15) Through roof and up ramp and wide layback crack. Double ring belay.

  3. 20m (17) Past fixed tube chock and up short wide layback crack, Up easy ground on left. At about 15m step right and up scrub to tree (going direct up left is harder).

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