Striking triple buttress system with some of the best climbing the escarpment has to offer. Big Fat Fin Slappers is the classic of the area however a couple more difficult routes await those keen for a cragging session around the corner.
Many of the Wollongong crags are located in the Illawarra Escarpment State Conservation Area (IESCA). This region has had a chequered history in recent times, with large swathes of popular crags having to be closed after it was missed that a new NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service (NPWS) Plan of Management (PoM - 2018) had incidentally banned climbing along most of the escarpment. After a lobbying effort and a stroke of coincidental good luck an amended plan of management has been published (2023), modifying the plan to allow rock-climbing “… on the west- and south-facing cliffs of Mount Keira and on cliffs north of Bulli Pass."
Access comes with caveats and all climbers should be aware that that “… new bolts or anchors may only be installed with NPWS consent, and park infrastructure such as safety railing may not be used as anchor points as they have not been designed for this purpose. NPWS will not install, assess or guarantee bolts or other fixed protection points. Participants in these activities are solely responsible for their own safety.”
Given the pressures many rock-climbing areas have been under around Australia and the plethora of access issues that have followed it is imperative that climbers respect and heed the access requirements. Access granted can easily be access taken, noting from the PoM: “Locations where rock climbing and abseiling are allowed may be reviewed and altered to address safety issues, risks to visitors or impacts on cultural values or environmental values. Temporary closures of rock climbing and abseiling locations may be applied to limit impacts. Permanent closure of sites may also be necessary. NPWS will consult with representatives of the local climbing community before implementing any permanent closures.”
Please refer to the ‘Ethic” section for more notes on how to be a good steward for the climbing community.
Along the Forest Track, walk to (-34.262694, 150.959417).
At the "Warning, dangerous cliffs in the area" sign take the first good track on the right (roughly 40-50m past). This track is distinguished by the presence of tussock grasses you wade through. There are some smaller phantom tracks that are developing as people are turning off too early, please try to avoid making these worse, the turn off is further past the sign than you think.
In the worst case scenario it is possible to scramble out of the escarpment roughly 400m south (under the powerlines). There are basically zero ways in which it is a better option than simply prussicing out your fixed rope.
The obvious rap anchors you first see are the descent for Big Fat Fin Slappers. To get on the other routes here scramble 15m south and locate a couple U bolts in a cave (best) or the top out anchors for "Hecotes Perfectoes"(not as good). Fix a 30m static rope to these and rap in to the big ledge on their north (between BFFS and HP)
The modern climbing scene and all the access issues that go with it requires modern ethic and all climbers should familiarise themselves with general good crag etiquette to ensure access is maintained into the future.
The following is a short summary for the area:
Learn more at https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
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Eliezer on ★★ Big Fat Fin Slappers 18 - IMG_3035.jpeg
Harry Ryan on ★★ Big Fat Fin Slappers 18 - 20200705_092340.jpg
★★ Big Fat Fin Slappers 18 - 20240218_123806.jpg
Dylan Tubaro on ★★★ Le Crevasse 18 - 101390005_701824113968519_2533818408701526016_n.jpg
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