Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Mount Keira | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
16 Hard | ★★★ Windy - with Michael 'Monty' Burns | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Such as awesome line. Twice as high as the west face, good rock, and easy to protect if you have some big cams. A well placed rap line helps with the detractions of this climb being access and the top out.
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16 | ★★★ Windy - with Rory Hentshel | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Amazing climb, quite well protected with the right gear. Foot slipped for my first trad fall, the most intensely I've ever yelled falling. After the main crack I went right to the corner then right out of the roof. Reached for the rap rope to finish off, could face climb the red rock but there is a big block that might come unstuck if you pulled on it too hard. I put some weight on it but got the heebie jeebies and bailed to safety. Topping out options are sparse, I tied a figure 8 in the rap rope to belay the seconder with.
Used one #6, two #5's, one #4, two #2's, two #1's, one #0.75. Plenty of bumping the bigger cams for the main crack down low. Very awesome climb, great rock quality except for the sandy slab in the middle. |
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Mon 4th Oct 2021 - Mount Keira | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
13 | Sacrilege | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Turned it into 2 pitches and topped out. Wandered abit. Heap of dirt and fun. Fun under cling on the round Boulder at the top.
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Tue 20th Jul 2021 - Mount Keira | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
16 | ★★★ Windy | 25m | |||||
Got to the ledge but needed more size 4 and 5 cams. 2-3 of each would do nicely. No idea of the headwall. Cheated and escaped on the rap rope
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20 | ★ M | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice, scarce in the middle
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18 | ★ JK | 20m, 6 | |||||
Spicy rock quality, okay
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21 | ★★★ Super Creeps | 28m, 9 | |||||
Cheated on first crux, nothing to grab! Lovely jugs ahead
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Wed 14th Jul 2021 - Mount Keira | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
23 | ★ Canned Horsemeat - with Serayah Steele | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
This one stumped me in high school so it was nice to return. Still felt a little desperate. Maybe I could have refined the beta, cleaned the holds more and attempted before sunset.
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Sat 26th Sep 2020 - Mount Keira | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
13 | Sacrilege - with Craig | 25m | Average | ||||
Nice climb up to final ledge and corner system. Couldn't find obvious way up - looked loose - and belayed second up into corner. Abseiled off.
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Fri 1st May 2020 - Mount Keira | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Super Creeps - with Luke | 28m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
One of the best climbs on the mountain for sure! Tricky, hard start, plenty of rests then great moves up through the roofs. Rapped in off trees then topped out and belayed second up from above
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Sat 11th Apr 2020 - Mount Keira | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
24 | ★ Ringwraith | 12m, 6 | |||||
Actually not bad
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Sun 22nd Mar 2020 - Mount Keira | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
21 20 | ★ M | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Fourth clip is sketchy and HARD! Don't try if you can only just lead 20's. Harder than other 21's on other Keira faces. Not as much suss rock as JK, but still was overly cautious on first ascent. The mentioned clip-and-go anchor is long gone. 2RB anchor.
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18 | ★ JK | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Nervous lead, tapping rock and second guessing holds all the way up! A lot of suspect areas, and very sandy, be careful.
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18 | ★ JK | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Climbing with more confidence after the first ascent. It is a good route, and could be a great route with a lot of traffic cleanup and removing all the suss rock. Layback at the top is quite cool.
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Mon 23rd Dec 2019 - Mount Keira | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
19 18 | Magnesium Turkeynate (MgTO3) | 10m, 3 | Average | ||||
Better head to Stonehaven.
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20 21 | Saviour Machine | 12m, 3 | Average | ||||
Hard layback start. Not sure what planet you would be on to call this 16.
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Fri 15th Nov 2019 - Mount Keira | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Super Creeps - with Luke | 28m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Originally was labelled as Desperado. Dogged our way up for adventure, so filthy. Came back few weeks later and cleaned it up! Thanks Rod Young for correcting the climbs up. Coming back soon to lead. Surely one for the best climbs on Keira! Can rap in off trees at the top if you know where to jump the fence
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18 | ★ JK - with Luke | 20m, 6 | |||||
So filthy but so fun! Would be interesting to know when it was climbed last. Previous tick was 2010. Some pretty rough rope rub on the lower
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Tue 27th Nov 2018 - Mount Keira | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
11 | Competition | 30m | |||||
Sun 19th Jul 2015 - Mount Keira | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
16 21 | Saviour Machine | 12m, 3 | Crap | ||||
Do not climb this! When i got to the "chains" I realised they were rusted. Half weighted them and they exploded from the wall. Had to back climb to escape. Do not be fooled by the rebolted rings for the first three clips, the anchors were not replaced and were very dangerous.
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Fri 30th Mar 2007 - Mount Keira | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
16 21 | Saviour Machine | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 17th Mar 2007 - Mount Keira | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
16 21 | Saviour Machine | 12m, 3 | |||||
i am re-grading it to a 21
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Fri 22nd Jul 2005 - Mount Keira | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
20 | ★ Desperado | 30m, 10 | Don't Bother | ||||
very scary, had no strength left after the days climbing, not a good one to end on
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Sat 13th Dec 2003 - Mount Keira | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
23 | ★ Canned Horsemeat | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
HARD, rings make it a bit nicer, needs a clean.
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18 | Magnesium Turkeynate (MgTO3) | 10m, 3 | Crap | ||||
YUCK dirty yuck. Where is the first bolt?
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Sun 3rd Nov 2002 - Mount Keira | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
20 | ★ M | 15m, 6 | |||||
and barefoot on toprope July, 02
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Thu 12th Sep 2002 - Mount Keira | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
18 | Magnesium Turkeynate (MgTO3) | 10m, 3 | |||||
Sat 13th Jul 2002 - Mount Keira | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
18 | ★ JK | 20m, 6 | |||||
barefoot!
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1999 - Mount Keira | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Super Creeps - with Alistair Fogg | 28m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
1994 - Mount Keira | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
18 | Magnesium Turkeynate (MgTO3) | 10m, 3 | |||||
20 | ★★ Improving On Nature | 10m, 5 | |||||
Fri 31st Jul 1992 - Mount Keira | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
20 | ★★ Five Bolts To Nowhere | 25m, 2 | |||||
20 | ★★ Improving On Nature | 10m, 5 | |||||
Tue 27th Nov 2018 - Mount Keira | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
14 | Wind Galls | 25m | |||||
17 | Hammer Horror | 25m | |||||
15 | Sacrifice | 30m | |||||
14 | Death's Head | 25m | |||||
13 | Sacrilege | 25m | |||||
18 | Grouples | 25m | |||||
18 | Fashion B | 25m | |||||
17 | Bog Spavin | 25m | |||||
16 | ★★★ Windy | 25m | |||||
Mon 27th Nov 2017 - Mount Keira | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
20 | ★ Desperado | 30m, 10 | |||||
Sat 22nd May 2010 - Mount Keira | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
15 | Bills Bumhole | 25m | Crap | ||||
hasn't been touched since the 70's very moldy, can't get traction!
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Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Mount Keira | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
15 | Gourmet | 25m | |||||
20 | ★ Desperado | 30m, 10 | |||||
20 | ★★ Improving On Nature | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
17 | Hammer Horror | 25m | |||||
17 | Up Against The Wall | 12m, 4 | |||||
15 | Bills Bumhole | 25m | |||||
18 | Magnesium Turkeynate (MgTO3) | 10m, 3 | Don't Bother | ||||
18 | Magnesium Turkeynate (MgTO3) | 10m, 3 | |||||
16 21 | Saviour Machine | 12m, 3 | |||||
17 | Bog Spavin (Gob Spavin) | 25m | |||||
16 | ★★★ Windy | 25m | |||||
19 | Satan Sorrow | 25m | |||||
18 | Magnesium Turkeynate (MgTO3) | 10m, 3 | |||||
14 | Death's Head | 25m | |||||
18 | Fashion B | 25m | |||||
17 | Up Against The Wall | 12m, 4 | |||||
20 | ★★ Improving On Nature | 10m, 5 | |||||
20 | ★ M | 15m, 6 | |||||
16 21 | Saviour Machine | 12m, 3 | |||||
20 | Mystery Achievements | 15m, 5 | |||||
23 | ★ Canned Horsemeat | 10m, 5 | |||||
20 | ★★ Improving On Nature | 10m, 5 | |||||
20 | ★★ Five Bolts To Nowhere | 25m, 2 | |||||
16 | ★★★ Windy | 25m | |||||
18 | ★ JK | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
16 21 | Saviour Machine | 12m, 3 | Don't Bother | ||||
everything over here sucks
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24 | Frustrations | 10m, 3 | |||||
24 | ★ Ringwraith | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
18 11 M1 | Hammer Head | 10m | |||||
16 21 | Saviour Machine | 12m, 3 | |||||
14 | Death's Head | 25m | |||||
25 | Warhol | 12m, 4 | |||||
24 | Frustrations | 10m, 3 | |||||
15 | Sacrifice | 30m | |||||
17 | Hammer Horror | 25m | |||||
14 | Mangy Donkey | 25m | |||||
18 | Fashion B | 25m | |||||
20 | Gallows Tree | 25m | |||||
16 | ★★★ Windy | 25m | |||||
11 | Competition | 30m | |||||
20 | Hughes Spews | 15m | |||||
11 | Manic Depressive | 20m | |||||
20 | ★★ Five Bolts To Nowhere | 25m, 2 | |||||
20 | ★ M | 15m, 6 | Average | ||||
23 | The Crap Stops Here | 17m, 4 | |||||
24 | Dead Ahead | 8m, 1 | |||||
11 | Manic Depressive | 20m | |||||
15 | Bills Bumhole | 25m | |||||
14 | Mangy Donkey | 25m | |||||
23 | ★ Canned Horsemeat | 10m, 5 | |||||
18 | Magnesium Turkeynate (MgTO3) | 10m, 3 | |||||
18 | Grouples | 25m | |||||
20 | Gallows Tree | 25m | |||||
15 | Sacrifice | 30m | |||||
19 | Satan Sorrow | 25m | |||||
20 | ★ Desperado | 30m, 10 | Average | ||||
chossy and mossy
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