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Routes in Mount Keira for selected grade

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Showing all 26 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
North Face
19 Sand Pit Wall One

On the short wall starting from the halfway ledge (3m left of Debut Deview). Up wall past rusty bolt going left at top. Pro. = 2 rusty bolts

FA: Steve Bullen & Graeme Hill, 1982

Sport 5m, 2
19 Grot Heap Grave

Up GH Groove for 8 metres. Step L on horizontal break to gain finger crack of WG. (GH Groove is now 'off'.)

Trad 15m
West Face
19 Atomic

Top rope problem

FA: Ian Anger, Graeme Hill & Jon Muir

Top rope 6m
19 Dark Side Of The Turkey

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth "A brilliant climb. Devious and awkward. It turned me into a newt - but I got better again" - Ant Prehn. Up the wall at initials.

FA: Ant Prehn, Graeme Hill & Ian Anger

Mixed trad 6m, 1
19 Turkeys Take Off

[Feb 2012 - added steel lower offs] "This is a gem of a roof climb". Start at the TT initials. Up overhung wall to clip ringbolt, up under roof, move right (ringbolt) until jugs over roof can be reached. Swing out left ... remembering to clip 3rd ring over lip as you go and mantle over top arete and up.

FA: Ant Prehn, Graeme Hill & Ian Anger

Sport 9m, 4
19 Synthetic Orgasm

A good climb for tearing your fingernails off and radical cranking' - Hill. Start at initial. DO NOT USE TREE BEHIND YOU!. Bouldery start on thin sharp holds to launch (fixed bracket) and straight up past 2nd bracket onto arete. Final easy moves up EOOTBWOKS past bolt to the top.

FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh

Sport 11m, 4
19 Chipped Malignant Falcon

Starts 1m right of corner 'Bills Folly'. (Small 'friend' under the large flake to protect the 1st move or go up crack and reach across to clip 1st bolt). Pull onto the wall using the large flake. Straight up wall on small holds passing 2nd bolt to small ledge (medium cam or traverse to new arete bolt) Climb on right at arete (reach right over the edge of the arete to clip EOOTBWOKS bolt as you go to the top).

FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh

Sport 12m, 3
West Face Boulders Book Boulder
V1 The Book of Cracks Stand

Start matched in the large hole/jug, and head straight up the crack.

Boulder 2m
West Face Boulders Tick Boulder
V1 Aunt May's foot jam

Start wherever feels comfortable on the rails below, left foot jam into the hole, right foot on the lower rail. Span left hand up to the crimp, palm the start hold and move up through the crimps to the top out.

FA: Mazzie D

Boulder
West Face Boulders
V1 Local Special

FA: 2020

Boulder 2m
V1 Bowlo

FA: 2020

Boulder 2m
V1 Traino

FA: 2020

Boulder 2m
South Face
19 Prime Time

Almost under the South Lookout there is a 40m diagonal crack through a bulge. Up the crack and straight up wall to ledge. Up soaring hand crack above to anchor.

FA: Graeme Hill & Ant Prehn

Trad 40m, 2
East Face
19 Satan Sorrow

Start somewhere over near the lookout on the righthand side. The oversized jamb crack that starts above the smallish overhang. Over roof to the top.

FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh

Trad 25m
Pox Crag
19 Poxy Loxy

A nifty little unit quite awkward. Start 1m in left from corner. Up past two rotting carrots.

FA: Graeme Hill, Russell Chudleigh & Ant Prehn

Sport 5m, 2
19 Strenuous Tenuous Turkey Route

Start about 1.5 metres right of Annette (Pox Free). Straight up to bolt above horizontal break and continue straight to top. No devious leftwards steps onto the resting ledge allowed. Protected by an ethical bolt. This is a bolt that you can slide out if it offends and slide it back in if you want to live a lot longer.

FA: Graeme Hill & Dave Thomas

Sport 7m, 3
V1 Those aren’t berries

A very short climb with potential to lengthen and upgrade. Start low on the jug with a foot up on the underside of the overhang, complete a few moves to match on the tiny ledge feature.

FA: Josh Zylstra, 10 Nov 2023

Boulder 2m
Lower Boulders
V1 3

Stand start on the flake, head straight up without using any of the chips/cuttings.

Boulder 4m
V1 1218 New Cases

Sit Start with big pockets/edges for hands. Head Right to arete then up and left to manky mossy mantle.

FA: Mark, 29 Aug 2021

Boulder 3m
V1 Echo Corner

Up the easier side of the arete to top out

FA: Murray, 10 Dec 2017

Boulder 3m
V1 Moe's stretch

Straight up the slab with no arete. Left of Echo Corner.

FA: lkmrrs, 28 Mar 2021

Boulder 3m
V1 Headstone

At the 'West Boulder' Up to the lip then follow the ledge right then up. Mind the tree!

FA: Murray, 10 Dec 2017

Boulder 2m
V1 Left To Your Own Devices

Sit start similar to Foxy Knoxy, then up to the right along the arete, finishing with the rest of the climbs.

Set: 28 Mar 2021

Boulder 3m
V1 Sticky BBQ Ribs

Sit start on the south eastern corner of Ribbed Boulder. Left hand on crimp, right in pocket. Couple of moves up to slopey lip and follow it along to the right keeping your feet on the slab. Top out at the the same spots as Bam and Chungsta.

FA: Sandon Joubert, 4 Aug 2021

Boulder 3m
Pucko's Boulder
V1 Stardrop

Stand start, balance traversing left until you reach the lip. Mantle left onto the ledge.

Boulder 3m
V1 Cheat Code

Same start as 'Stardrop' but instead of mantling left, go straight up and top out

Boulder 5m

Showing all 26 routes.

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