Really great for a Sydney route and pitch 2 is legitimately a terrific bit of trad climbing. Great rock and great gear and I think it overhangs by at least a few meters. The pitch 1 hand traverse is also pretty fun. Definitely worth the effort to get out there.
A full lap from the ground to exit the crack. Finally led P1 (Onsight) - I'd forgotten how terrifyingly scary the sandpit rock for the first 6m is... great corner crack and traverse after that. P2 - Clean 2nd (Repeat). P3 & P4 (Linked) - Clean (Repeat). P5 - Red Point (technically, since I'd seconded Neil on this over 2 years ago, can't claim an Onsight), but in the dark, without stripping down unnecessary gear, and without ticking or cleaning the chipped topout hold and slopers. Fun. Short.
P2 (22) - Onsight (with some beta from Neil as to where the route goes), and P4 (20) via the original finish this time (partial onsight, as I'd done some of it before in the variant finish). P2 is a stunning pitch of unlikely trad on bomber rock, with great pro, in an exposed position, and with surprisingly pumpy and technical climbing. Stoked to get on this one! P4 is good in the "adventurous trad" style.
Only lead pitch two so that's what the insight applies to, this is the money pitch. What an awesome position! Quite overhanging, rad! Finished the whole route in the dark. Good Sunday arvo adventure!
- with
Eugene Mak
