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Road House
Very nice road side bouldering: Guide and access here: http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=crag&crag_id=463 |
The Dug Out
A sweet little cave with great rock and a couple of fantastic lines. The only draw back is that water runs off the top out for a while after rain. NB: There is a big flakey jug at the back L/H side of the cave that looks like it might snap off. It probably will! no problems use this hold |
The Dug Out |
V8
★★ Curve Ball
Esentially a more direct route to the extended line. Start as for that problem and gain the big mushroom type hold in the roof. From here fire a big move to a bad flat block in the roof and re-join the established line near the very end. All the Holds of the established are not used untill right near the end just before the big horn. Tricky, Tricky Start: As for the Extended Line |
V8
★★★ Fly Ball
Start as for curve ball and make moves to the big mushroom in the roof then big move left to the lip and continue a fridge hug/compression to top out as for backburner. |
V6
★ Strike Three
This problem starts as for the Established line but heads left, reversing the start of Extended line to gain the big rounded hole. Confused yet? I am. Now move around to the left face and fire up for the top of the groove to top out. Start: As for Established line |
V6
★★ The Established Line
Sit start low in the back of the cave and follow out the obvious line of incut edges to the big horn. Slap around to the slopey top out. slighty easier if you finish a bit over right but often wet. Start: At the back of cave matched on first incut edge |
V7
★★★ The Established Ball
Start for the Established Line. Climb straight into the mushroom and finish as for Curve Ball. Drop a grade if you use holds on the established line for your feet. |
V7
★★ The Extended Line
Crawl way down in the back of the cave, all the way down there in the little stream. Follow the rail leftish to the big pocket,then some tricky moves back right lead back into the establish line. Finish as this problem. Start: Way down the left hand side of the cave 'matched' at the base of the toilet bowel scoop. can be sit started if it's not too wet |
V5
★★ Back Burner
The easiest problem here and a nice one too. Basically start up Fast ball but from the big jug break left and finish up established line. Not easy Start: As for Fast ball |
V9
★★ Fast Ball
This is the nastiest finish going. Frustration! and it's usually wet. Start on some deep breaks at the back r/h side of the cave. Climb out to the big obvious jug now try to climb directly out the very steep roof to the rounded top out 1m right of the other problems. Uses the bad bad pinch type hold that looks like it may have broken. Heart breaking last throw to the slopers Start: Back r/h Side of cave |
V9
★★ Fast Ball Variant
As for fast ball but move left through poor holds to slap out the blunt left hand little 'Arete' of the cave. Still avoids using any holds from the established line for your hands especially the huge jug on the lip. Start: Sit start as for 'Back Burner' |
V10
★★ Screwball
Start as for 'Curve Ball' and finish as for 'Fast Ball' or 'Fast Ball Variant'. Harder than 'Bases Loaded' but not enough for an upgrade. |
V10
★★★ Bases Loaded
Start: As for Extened Line and link into all of fast ball or fast ball variant from the back ledge. Does not use any of the finish holds of 'Extended line' The big lip jug is off! |
V8
★ Mexican Wave
Start at 'back burner' and reverse the 'established line' and come back up via 'Curve Ball' and finish as for that problem. |
V9
★ heavy hitter
Start on right most jug and dyno to the lip. Mantle straight over. |
V9
★★ Batter up
Start as for established line and head to right big dinner plate jug. Then head straight out through small crimps and an undercling near the lip in the middle of the lip. |
V10
★ All bases reloaded
Start as for extended line but finish as for batter up |
Break Down Lane Left
Left hand side of the break down lane. |
Break Down Lane Left |
V4
★★★ Jettison
A fun dyno, from the undercling jump directly to the lip. Jumpfest Start: Stand Matched on undercling |
V2
★★ Moon Raker
Climb the corner using some intermediate side pulls Start: As for 'Jettison', on the undercling |
V3
Tor's Slab
Climb the blank slab by jumping or smearing your way up to the flat top ledge. Often wet Start: Standing in front of blank slab |
V5
★★ Katy Rose
Climb the arete type thing using only the corner and pinches on it before making a big move to the lip. The holds on the right face are off. Start: Standing at left leaning feature |
V3
★★ Trans Nightmare
Climb the little face veering right Start: Standing |
V2
★ Salvador
Climb past the hole and over. Usually wet Start: Standing below the dirty seeping hole |
V6
Tic Tac Toe
Climb up and right on super slopey features avoiding the crack on the left. Classic subtle sloper pulling Start: Standing 1m right of the hole just before the rooflet, starting with a slopey R/H edge |
V1
★★ Shin Splints
Standing up is the trick to this one. climbs great once you know how. Has been done hands free Start: Standing on ledge at the rounded nose |
V7
★★ Dragged Along
Sit start at the right most point of the horizontal break under the rooflet. Traverse left a few moves, then break out to the lip. Using the series dishes on the face for hands, kick the feet over to the arete and mantle over to join "Shin Splints" and top out. |
V0
★ Slopey Pete
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
Break Down Lane Right
A nice wall with slopey features. 'Road side assistance V7' is classic sloper slapping. |
Break Down Lane Right |
V7
Castle Who?
Start 1-2m to the right of the crack with left and right hands in two dimple pockets, smearing the seam. Hop up left hand to a bad slopey hold and press your way out. (How do you grade a mantle?) |
V0-
Nothing of Interest
Climb the easy blocky slab. Also the descent here Start: Left of 'Hidden Agenda' |
V2
★★ Hidden Agenda
Climb the left hand arete keeping your eye out for the hidden pocket and your feet on the R/H wall Start: Sit start on the low pocket near the L/H arete. , 'Arete' left of Road side assistance) |
V7
★★ Road Side Assistance
Undercling the crack and smear your way up and left to gain the horizontal break. Lock off and reach for the slopey top out. classic Start: Sit start at crack below little rooflet |
V3
★★ Ridin on the Bump Stops
Follow the crack up and right and move into the horizontal break (grab as undercling), top out up and right. Start: Sit start at crack as for 'Road side assistance' Can be done as a stand start at V3 |
V6
★★ Bump Stops Sit
Sit start as for Road Side Assistance. Follow the crack to the right and up same as Ridin on the Bump Stops. |
V3
★★ Big Rig
Lay off the crack using only the R/H wall to an interesting top out Start: Standing start at lay away crack |
V1
★ Barry in the Break Down Lane
Climb straight up with a beautiful finish Start: Standing at rounded overlap |
V1
★★ Streat Neat
smear your way up the cute little blank slab Start: Standing just right of Barry |
V5
★ Eye for eye
Climb up veering left from the ledge. Careful the loose block is off. Start: Sit start near the crack on the R/H end using a finger lock slot. |
V0
Project
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
V0
Check, one, two project
Start: Standing at blank slab |
Sea Creature
A fun little bloc with some excellent super slopey mantles. The tuff liquid skin V5 is great and also the impossible looking mantle flesh feast V4. |
Sea Creature |
V1
★ Summon the Kracken
Climb straight up and over past the slopey looking pockets Start: Sit start around the back corner of the block below the slopey pockets |
V2
★ Belly of the Beast
Pull on and mantle the slopey top Start: Standing start in about the middle of the back face of the boulder. |
V3
★ Over the Falls
Move up and left to top out over the prow. Quite tricky and avoids bridging with hands or feet back right of the scoop. Start: Sit start below the prow on the thin flake |
V1
★★ Size Matters
Move up then right from the start to top out the easiest way 'bridging the scoop' Start: Sit start on the thin flake as for 'Over the Falls' |
V4
★ Flesh Feast
A desperate mantle that definitely has a nac to it, looked much harder! From the slopey lip gain the slopey gaston with your left and press, press, press. Don't cop out and palm down out left of the scoop. Start: Matched on the slopey lip right of the scoop. |
V5
★★★ Liquid Skin
Move straight up and over the super slopey lip to mantle using some small slopey features over the top. Start: Sit start before the R/H arete type business for a weird start on some underclings. |
Whale Boulder
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
Whale Boulder |
V2
★★ Scale the Whale
A tricky little slopey arete. Pull on from a standing start and climb the arete proper without using the face holds around right. |
V0-
Bobble
Just right of scale the whale on the little face slab. Climb from standing start up the lumpy feature Start: 1m right of arete |
The Alien
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
The Alien |
V2
Alien Workshop
Sit start below the pointed nose of the Alien Boulder on a big pocket. climb up and over to top out. Start: Alien boulder, sit start below rounded pocket. |
V0-
Space Pod
An easy climb up the side face of the alien boulder. Start: sit start in the middle of boulder on the side facing the break down lane. |
V1
★ traverse
traverse entire boulder staying avoiding hands on top. careful of tree |
Baby Block
Scattered boulders & area overview taken from Main wall side |
Baby Block |
V2
★ Baby Block Left
Sit start climb up using left 'Arete' only Start: Sit start on left arete, Baby Bloc |
V1
★ Baby Block
Climb the block from a sit using both aretes Start: Baby bloc boulder. sit start |
V2
★ Baby Block Right
Much the same as the left. Climb using only right arete Start: Baby Bloc, Sit start R/H arete |
V0
Slopey Pete
A slopey 'Arete' over beyond Huckleberry. |
Press Man Boulder
A large block with a few nice probs. The best being 'Pressman' V4, 'Sex Socket' V1 and the tricky 'Actual Size' V3 |
Press Man Boulder |
V3
★★ Actual Size
A great little proble thats much trickier than it looks. Sit start to the left of the little ramp. Follow the rib up and mantle on top to finish up the face to the right. Start: Sit start at lower left side of ramp |
V3
★ For My Bro's & Girls True
A funny little mantle in the middle of the blank wall. Start: Standing in the middle of rounded wall |
V0-
★ Rise
Sit start at R/H end along the pocketed break. Straight up. The easiest of the easy. Start: Sit |
V0
★ My Trolley
Sit start in middle of wall, straight up. Start: Sit |
V0
★ Ride On
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
V1
★ Sex Socket
A beautiful problem from the obvious hole on the arete. Climb the flake to slopey top out Start: Sit Start on very obvious hole by arete |
V4
★ Pressman
A sloper feast. Climb directly up using the slopey bumps. Avoid the problems either side. Start: Standing just right of arete |
V0
★ Back in the Saddle
A cute little problem on the r/h end. Sit start below the short arete climb up and onto it, mounting it like a saddle in the process Start: Sit start on pockets and arete |
Huckle Berry Boulder
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
Huckle Berry Boulder |
V3
★★ Huckle Berry
Sit start on low R/H side of boulder on small flatish rail. Climb the edge to the left arete and top out. Start: Sit start on huckleberry boulder |
Main Wall
A nice high face with good highball problems. Try the classic 'Hungry sex tables V3' and the scary 'Skyline V4 & Arab assassin V3/4' |
Main Wall |
V3 R
★★ Arab Assasin
Climb straight up and into the scoop for a hairy finish. Mind the fall onto the block! Start: Standing start just right of the block. |
V2
★★ These Children Must Need Biceps
Start below Hungery sex Tables. A low traverse right below the middle horizontal break. Finish as for 'Childs Play'. Start: As for H.S.T |
V3
★★ Hungery Sex Tables
Start in front of small ledge below big jug. Climb directly up to top out slightly leftish.Fab Start: Standing off small ledge |
V4
★★ Skyline
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
V2
★ Trail Blazer
Start at low juggy block. Climb straight up, topping out slightly right Start: Standing start 2m right of skyline |
V1
★ Childs Play
Start from obvious pocket, make a big move straight up avoiding the juggyness near R/H arete Start: Standing at big pocket near R/H end |
V3
★ These Children Must be Sex Tables
Start at right end on low flat rail. Cross through to edges and out to pocket. Finish up Childs play. Avoid the big juggy stuff. Start: Sit start at far R/H end |
V4
Sex Line
From hungry sex tables traverse up and right to top out as for Skyline Start: As for hungry sex tables |
V3 R
★★ Christopher Reeve Memorial
Start low on a good hold then climb up and left via a big move before a hairy top out above the block. Do not blow the top out, please be careful Start: Low start behind Large fallen bloc |
V4
Horizon
Climbs directly up without escaping right to top out. A big move gains a sloping crimp rail near the top then a committing move for the lip. 'Fantastic' Start: Standing 1m right of Skyline |
V3
Slack Crack
Stand start and climb the crack line veering left to top out. Some fry-able holds Start: Between 5 & 6 at the crack line |
V2
★★ long traverse
sart at right end of wall at offwidth and traverse left along entire wall to tree. Crimp endurance training |
Odyssey Block
A Great place for warming up try the classics 'Corner block V2 & 'Chopping Block' V3' Also the slabs have nice warm up problems |
Odyssey Block |
V2
★ Escape
Climb out left from the small cave and over. Some good holds above make for an easy top out Start: Sit start on the left of the small cave |
V4
★ Like a Version
Sit start at left hand end of cave and do not use lip holds and keep your feet above the bottom ledge as you traverse right to top out, like "Version". |
V4
★★ Version
On the right of the little cave take the hard line out right up and over. Start: Sit start on r/h side of small cave |
V0-
Odyssey
Fun for the kids Climb the slabby arete. Worth doing Start: Standing |
V3
★★ Chopping Block
Sit start at the centre of the long rail. Press up and grab an edge in the middle of the steep face then straight up to the top of the prow & over. Avoids using the 'Arete' like 'Corner block V2' Start: Sit start |
V2
★★ Corner Block
Sit start near the R/H 'Arete' on the low ledge. Climb the arete to finish at the top of the prow as for 'Chopping block' Start: Sit start near Right 'Arete' |
V2
★★ Rare Taste
Climb up veering slightly right. The arete is off Start: Standing 1m right of arete. |
V2
★★ Sneaky Peek
Climb directly up the blankish section Start: Standing about middle of block |
V1
★★ Bubble Gum
Take the easy line straight up Start: Standing 2m left of arete |
V1
★★ Afternoon Delight
Climb straight up just left of arete. Start: Standing just left of arete |
V5
★★ Version 1.0
Start: Sit start as for 'Escape' Move straight up to the slopey lip and traverse the slopers all the way right to top out as for 'Version'. Pumpy |
V6
★ Grippn, Slippn, Trippn
Sit start low using bad holds on the arete. 'Snatch' the little break on the right hand face then up. Start: This problem climbs the little sharp arete on the block just to the right. |
V3
★ I Robot
Start: Sit start as for escape, gain the lip and traverse right on slopers to a pressy top out just before 'Version' |
V3
Backyard cricket
Sit start at left end of boulder opposite chopping block heading up and left across roof edge to mantle |
V0
Backyard BBQ
As for BC but straight up on mostly jugs |