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Routes as trad in Woy Woy

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Showing all 26 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Phegans Bay
11 Mother's Choice

Left of IITM. Wandery. Up leftward ascending slab onto ramps, then up and right to last overhang. Muscle over this to top.

FA: Phil Stallard, David McGrouther, Iam Williamson, Steve Moss & A. Fraser, 1978

Trad 15m
15 Mr Penetration

Start: Below overhanging off width corner at left end of wall. A gutsy little climb. Straight up the corner. Phil Stallard, Dave McGrouther 1979

Trad 6m
15 Mohamed

Large crack that splits the main wall.

FA: Phil Stallard, Dave McGrouther, Steve Moss & Scott Hoy

Trad 15m
21 Wiggle It Just A Little Bit

2m right of M. 4 BRs and mid sized friends.

FA: Richard Jeffrey, 1999

Mixed trad 15m, 4
20 Opium

Below right side of blunt arete at north end of Mohamed Wall. Named for what you'd need if you miss the first clip. 3 BRs, #3.5 friend and wires.

FA: Ross Linsley & Paul Riviere, 1996

Mixed trad 15m, 3
9 Vagination

Short corner at left end of Stuff Wall.

FA: Scott Hoy (solo), 1978

Trad 5m
18 E

Start as for D. Straight up. 1 BR, small friends.

FA: Gary Hamilton & Shane Hirst, 2001

Mixed trad 7m, 1
13 Flakey Stuff

Follow the crack up and over the top.

Ring bolts at the top, albeit positioned for another climb so hard to clean. Bringing second up would be better.

FA: Lee Ogley, Jan 2023

Trad 7m
14 Sandy Stuff

Start over to the right of the wall, up to the horizontal seam, then traverse left to exit up the crack as Flakey Stuff.

FA: Lee Ogley, Jan 2023

Trad 8m
8 Kids Stuff

Straight up the steps and over the top.

There are anchors at the top if you'd like to set-up a top rope, or you can simply walk off the top. A single cam protects the break halfway up.

FA: Lee Ogley, Jan 2023

Trad 6m
14 Roundabout

Up high corner about 20m left of MC, then break out left onto wall and up slab above.

FA: Phil Stallard & Steve Moss, 1978

Trad 8m
14 Middle of the Knife

Start as for Knife Edge, but follow the vertical seam up, then straight up to top out. Carrots for anchors.

FA: Sean Gallagher, 28 Jan 2023

Trad 8m
17 Knife edge

Start as for Roundabout. Veer left to arete. #2.5 friend protects start then 3 BRs to triple BB belay. Retrobolted by David Forbes and Gary Hamilton, 2002

FA: Gordon Porter, 2000

Mixed trad 8m, 3
18 Little Roof Riding Hood

3m right of Roundabout. Clip BR to start, right over ledge then upward right through juggy overhang. 1 BR, 2 RBs and #0.5 friend below top.

FA: Richard Jeffrey & Matthew Kingsman-Smith, 2000

Mixed trad 8m, 3
11 Spalding

At rotten roof left of Roundabout, with black corner above. Delicately up frail holds under roof. Over this then follow bulging corner to top.

FA: Phil Stallard & Steve Moss, 1978

Trad 10m
7 Grandmother Crack

7m left of S. Easily up corner.

FA: David McGrouther, 1978

Trad 10m
12 The Mysteron

Overhanging groove 6m left of GC. Up groove, right up walls to top. Take care of loose blocks suspended by tree.

FA: Scott Hoy & David McGrouther, 1978

Trad 12m
11 The Catalyst

Corner 6m left of TM, just past rotten cave. Up groove then onto wall. Left into corner then follow your nose to the top.

FA: Scott Hoy & Phil Stallard, 1978

Trad 10m
15 The Right Catalyst

Start as for Catalyst, but instead of going left, follow the right hand crack to the top. A gutsy little lead.

Bring second up to clean from tree.

FA: Lee Ogley, Sep 2023

Trad 12m
10 The Little Grotto

Large corner 12m left of TC. Grovel left at the top.

FA: Scott Hoy & David McGrouther, 1978

Trad 10m
22 Debbie Does Dynos

2m right of WNW. Over bulge. Gnarly second clip if you're short. 2 RBs, 1 BR, #1.5 friend below top.

FA: Richard Jeffrey, 1999

Mixed trad 12m, 3
14 Wet 'n' Wild

An obvious large, dirty and often wet crack. Bring a range of friends and some absorbent cloth.

FA: Gordon Porter, Jeff Connelly, Grant Severn & Richard Jeffrey, 1999

Trad 12m
10 Slabs Inc

Left juggy side of the steep slab. Trend up slabs past tree and more slabs to top.

FA: Phil Stallard, I. Dymock & I. Jones, 1979

Trad 10m
11 After You

10m left of SI. Up steep wall.

FA: Dave McGrouther & Phil Stallard (solo), 1979

Trad 10m
10 Then Me

2m left of AY. Straight up wall on good holds.

FA: Phil Stallard & Dave McGrouther, 1979

Trad
10 Suburbia Street

6m left of TM at tree growing out of crack. Straight up crack and overhang above.

FA: Phil Stallard (solo), 1979

Trad 12m

Showing all 26 routes.

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