Showing all 12 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Reiteralm | |||||||
Alpawand | |||||||
8- |
★★★ Wassersymphonie
- with
Dave
1
7+
40
lead by
Dave
Steiles Warmup an rauen Griffen, das bröselige ist zwischenzeitlich ausgebrochen. Machbar für 7+.
3
6
40
lead by
Dave
Griffige Wasserrillenplatten. Auch die einfacheren Längen sind sehr schön.
5
7+
25
lead by
Dave
Leider lange nass und schmierig zwischen erstem und zweitem Haken. Steile Rissverschneidung mit pumpigen Ausstieg in die Platte.
7
8-
30
lead by
Dave
Einfacher Zustieg zur Schlüsselstelle über ein paar schöne scharfe Henkel. Dann wird es glatt, am besten ist die Stelle rechts der Haken zu piazen. Dritten Haken der Schlüsselstelle auf Schulter clippen und nach links in die Wand retten. Gnädig für 8-.
8
7
40
lead by
ToxicD
Schönste Länge der Tour. Lang, ausdauernd und steil. Wenn man einen Henkel braucht ist auch einer da. Leider etwas Seilzug, da es am Ende drei Haken nach links quert.
9
7-
40
lead by
Dave
Geile Länge. Steil an Seitgriffen in die Wand, riesige Henkelschuppe zur linken und dann feinste Wasserrillen. Stark!
11
7-
35
lead by
Dave
Kleingriffige technische Wandkletterei mit scharfen Griffen. Auch fein.
13
6-
40
lead by
Dave
14
7
30
lead by
ToxicD
Top Länge zum Ende. Mit ein paar crimps über den Bauch und dann 25m Wand/Plattenkletterei mit technischen Stellen. Top | 500m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Jede Länge ist gut, muss man Mal gemacht haben!
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Sun 3rd Sep 2023 - Reiteralm | |||||||
Alpawand | |||||||
7+ |
★★★ Earth and Heaven
- with
Vera
3
6+
30
lead by
Vera
Some harder moves directly from the start at a bulge, afterwards easier with good holds.
6
7-
40
lead by
ToxicD
Crimpy start with some laybacking and moves on a gaston (crux), afterwards easier but the technical slabby finish before the anchor is still challenging.
7
6+
40
lead by
Vera
The "Dürnberger" Dihedral can be climbed as a mix of chimneying, off width, dihedral or laybacks. Whatever you prefer, relatively long bolt distances with limited positions for mobile gear. Challenging for 6+.
8
7-
40
lead by
ToxicD
The crux moves (7-) at ~ 3 bolt of the pitch. Crimpy moves on a vertical wall. Getting around the bulge is the crux. Afterwards still very challenging traverse, which is only graded 6 in the guidebook of "F. Amann". Found the traverse almost as hard as the crux (7-) before.
11
7
30
lead by
Vera
Pumpy moves at a shallow crack going upward to the right. A bit demanding in lead!
12
7-
30
lead by
ToxicD
The most uncomfortable pitch of the whole route. Climbed it A0/A1 with two small totem cams. Hard from the belay to reach the first bolt (jug on the outside right of the arete helps, if you spot it). Getting into the dihedral is also uncomfortable and challenging. Was a bit wet when we climbed it. Afterwards it´s still not over, Sustained moves on a vertical drop hole slab with very shallow holds.
15
6
40
lead by
ToxicD
The money pitch. This is why you do the route. Super exposed mostly easy traverse with 500m of air under your butt. Memorable.
16
7+
20
lead by
Vera
Almost no hand and footholds at the beginning, which is the crux. Crimped the shit out of something on the right, was able to smear directly above area above the anchor and was able to reach a small spike on the left side (approx. 3 bolt), then you can reach the side hold and the jug visible from the anchor. Cool finish. | 570m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Must do if you are in the area. Probably one of the coolest traverses in the north of the alps (in this grade). Just a easy UIAA 6 with 500m of air below.
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Sat 15th Jul 2023 - Reiteralm | |||||||
Alpawand | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Der Sonne entgegen - with Helmuth Jellinek | 420m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 9th Aug 2022 - Reiteralm | |||||||
Alpawand | |||||||
8- |
★★★ Wassersymphonie
1
7+
40m
2
5-
35m
3
6
40m
4
4
25m
5
7+
25m
6
6
25m
7
8-
30m
8
7
40m
9
7-
40m
10
5
30m
11
7-
35m
12
6-
40m
13
6-
40m
14
7
30m
15
4
25m
| 500m | |||||
Sun 26th Jun 2022 - Reiteralm | |||||||
Alpawand | |||||||
8- 7+/8- | ★★★ Best of Genuss | 480m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 14th Aug 2021 - Reiteralm | |||||||
Alpawand | |||||||
7+ 7+/8- | ★★★ Best of Genuss - with Jonas | 480m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
This is really a gem of climbing. Except for the first pitch, which is dirty, mossy and wet. Each following pitch offers great climbing. The traverse in pitch 7, as well as the traverse in pitch 9 offer awesome moves which resolve surprisingly easily. Must do on this wall.
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Sat 5th Sep 2020 - Reiteralm | |||||||
Alpawand | |||||||
7+ | ★★★ Earth and Heaven | 500m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 25th May 2020 - Reiteralm | |||||||
Alpawand | |||||||
7+ | ★★★ Earth and Heaven | 500m | |||||
8- | ★★★ Wassersymphonie | 500m | |||||
Tue 25th Jun 2019 - Reiteralm | |||||||
Alpawand | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Der Sonne entgegen - with Hanna Kallweit | 420m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tue 11th Aug 2015 - Reiteralm | |||||||
Alpawand | |||||||
7 7+/8- | ★★★ Best of Genuss - with Danilo Hondo | 480m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Unattractive first pitch, then sustained climbing on perfect abrasive holds and liebacks. Hard moves (or A0) on some glued holds in pitch 8, which I couldn't onsight.
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Thu 10th Sep 2009 - Reiteralm | |||||||
Alpawand | |||||||
8- | ★★★ Wassersymphonie | 500m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Multipitch, 550 m.
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Showing all 12 ascents.