Routes in Brazil for selected grade

Chaminé média e larga, tesoura e fissura de meio corpo; Friends médios e grandes (Camalot 5 ou similar obrigatório), hexentrics grandes e nuts de cabo

Agarras; Friends e hexentrics médios

Awesome traverse that ends at doubled P-bolts of Curitiba. Climb up and left to first bolt then mostly laterally (slightly upwards) left following the line of bolts. Third bolt may be hard to see as it is close to bushes. Make sure you are solid on slab if you want to do this, the grade is easy but you may feel it is a little too run out!

3° IIIsup E1

Starting a few meters to the right of "Escadinha de Jacó".

1. Pitch 1: 35m; Up and to the right to reach double rings.

2. Pitch 2: 50m; Straight up to double rings.

3. Pitch 3: 25m; to the right to reach a ledge with double rings.

Take 11 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

Bolts are well-placed and not run-out.

The chimney that runs up the left side of the Totem formation on the south face of Pao de Acucar.

Route is bolted but only sparsely (no more than 3 to 4 bolts per pitch). Sometimes hard to see/find them, so good route finding skills are necessary, although it's mostly straight forward. At 3rd belay station make sure to go right from the ledge/tree. To the left is a variant graded at 5o A1 in the Brazilian grade system.

1. 1st pitch (30m): 3 bolts on slab and belay from single bolt on ledge.

2. 2nd pitch (50m): Slightly left to tree, then ledge, up chimney with one bolt, then ledge and another chimney with 2 bolts and then below from ledge on DBB.

3. 3rd pitch (40m): Continue up chimney with one bolt, then past roof and ledge with there is a DBB, continue up passing trees to get to bigger ledge (salão azul) and below from tree.

4. 4th pitch (40m): Walk right towards the end of the ledge and up past a small ledge with one bolt, some loose rocks and tight chimney to get a single bolt.

5. 5th pitch (40m): Up chimney with 3 bolts to get to DBB at the end.

6. 6th pitch (20m): Up past 3 bolts to get to DBB.

7. 7th pitch (20m): Left and up past 3 bolts to reach DBB. 50m walk to summit.

2° IIIsup E2/E3

Very first route to the left hand side of the north face of Morro da Babilônia. first pitch is a traverse to the left. other pitches go up. need to check abseil bolts to avoid down climbing the traverse. 6 quickdraws, a few slings to reduce drag and your anchor set is all you need.

Second route from the left on the north face of the mountain. Start is shortly to the left facing in to the end of the main entrance track. 7 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners for anchors.

Fifth (if you count the variant Novos Horizontes) from the left on north face. First bolt is above a small ledge, a bit higher and to the right of Novos Horizontes. You can reach the summit by linking with Ricardo Prado after the third belay station. There are a few variants along the way so it's easy to mix routes up. The original goes up for 45m to the first DRBs slightly to the left. It then goes up and slightly to the right for another 45m to the second belay station. It then moves up a bit to traverse left to the 3rd stop, about 30m up. 8 quickdraws plus slings and extra biners.

Starts at a high crack (easy). Tends to be a bit wet due to some vegetation around it. 7 quickdraws, some slings and extra carabiners.

Starts on top of some blocks of rock. Half way through the wall it becomes a bit more run out. 7 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

Straight up. Starts together with Azul but goes straight up (right of Azul)

Veers left to reach the first DBBs then straight up

Grampo em condições duvidosas.