Routes in South face

Used as a shortcut for the "Costão"[2476002666] track and therefore commonly soloed. Starts at a streak of basalt on the wall. First bolt is at 15m high.

Starting a few meters to the right of "Escadinha de Jacó".

1. Pitch 1: 35m; Up and to the right to reach double rings.

2. Pitch 2: 50m; Straight up to double rings.

3. Pitch 3: 25m; to the right to reach a ledge with double rings.

Take 11 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

Bolts are well-placed and not run-out.

1. 40m Goes up a couple of ledges in the first pitch to reach double ring bolts after a slight diagonal crack to the right.

2. 30m It traverses back to the left and up.

3. 35m Last pitch goes up and left and then right after the third bolt to reach some blocks that will lead to Costão track.

Take 10 quickdraws.

A 130m classic face climb on the south face of Pao de Acucar; a techy face on tiny little crimps and smears. This route is the third obvious line through the vegetation from the right.

1. Pitch 1: 30m;

2. Pitch 2: 35m, Stopping at a nice ledge.

3. Pitch 3: 35m; Trend right and then up and left.

4. Pitch 4: 30m; Through a bit of vegetation to reach "Costão"[2476002666] track.

11 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

A 4 pitch technical face and slab climb up the south face of Pao de Acucar. Starts on the east side of south face; 4th line from the right - the line next (left) to "As de Espadas". Starting quite easy, becomes harder and better as you move up. The crux comes at the end of the last pitch.

1. Pitch 1: 40m Going up and then traversing left at the last bolt before double rings;

2. Pitch 2: 50m Up 11 bolts then traverses left to double rings.

3. Pitch 3: 25m Straight up - the hardest pitch with the crux towards the very end.

12 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners. Spaced bolts but not runout.

The chimney that runs up the left side of the Totem formation on the south face of Pao de Acucar.

Route is bolted but only sparsely (no more than 3 to 4 bolts per pitch). Sometimes hard to see/find them, so good route finding skills are necessary, although it's mostly straight forward. At 3rd belay station make sure to go right from the ledge/tree. To the left is a variant graded at 5o A1 in the Brazilian grade system.

1. 1st pitch (30m): 3 bolts on slab and belay from single bolt on ledge.

2. 2nd pitch (50m): Slightly left to tree, then ledge, up chimney with one bolt, then ledge and another chimney with 2 bolts and then below from ledge on DBB.

3. 3rd pitch (40m): Continue up chimney with one bolt, then past roof and ledge with there is a DBB, continue up passing trees to get to bigger ledge (salão azul) and below from tree.

4. 4th pitch (40m): Walk right towards the end of the ledge and up past a small ledge with one bolt, some loose rocks and tight chimney to get a single bolt.

5. 5th pitch (40m): Up chimney with 3 bolts to get to DBB at the end.

6. 6th pitch (20m): Up past 3 bolts to get to DBB.

7. 7th pitch (20m): Left and up past 3 bolts to reach DBB. 50m walk to summit.

Starts from Largatão, crossing left to reach the west face of the Toten.

Take a full rack of cams and stoppers.

Up the ramp that goes to "Chaminé Stop". Belay from the bolt on ledge, after passing 3 bolts and 25m. 10 bolts to DBB.

Mixed climb (trad on 2nd pitch). Continues from "Limiar das Lacas" going right, left and then right again to reach the latter part of "Limiar da Loucura".

Take small to medium cams and stoppers.

Goes left after first pitch of "As Lacas Também Amam".

Revolta is a stunning and very steep, sustained flaring thin crack. The route is on the west face of the Totem. The views are spectacular with engaging and technical climbing. The crux is right at the end, and is unprotectable for 2-3 meters until the chains.

Starts from end of "As Lacas Também Amam" making for an 8-10 pitch route but there are other options. Walk left through vegetation and slightly up to ledge where you'll find double bolts for the belay. Pretty much straight up from there.

Take nuts, double cams from #0.3 (blue) to #2 (yellow) camalot, draws and slings.

Starts from end of "Revolta dos Gravatás". Abseil 20m to ledge on the left. Quite exposed.

Starts from base, just before ramp that goes to Chaminé Stop. Diagonally left.

Starts from 2nd bolt on slab that takes you to "Chaminé Stop" and joins "Cacoete" after 11 bolts

Most people only climb the first pitch (20m) as 2nd pitch is a grade III in the Brazilian system with quite an exposed traverse that takes you to "Lagartão". Starts a few meters to the left of "Cacoete".

Connects "Limiar da Loucura" and "Lagartão". Very exposed traverse.

Parallel to "As Lacas Também Amam".

Starts before the first belay station for "As Lacas Também Amam".

Aid climbing through roof towards the end of "Chaminé Stop".

This route an absolutely spectacular route with splitter cracks and technical face moves. On the north face of the Totem, which is on the south face of the Pao de Acucar.

It's actually a combination of several routes on the Totem formation that were established over the course of several years. Combination of "Sika em Frente" to "Limiar das Lacas" to "As Lacas Também Amam" to "Revolta dos Gravatas" to "Lagartao".

Need to abseil from the end of "Revolta dos Gravatás" to "A Um Passo do Espaço" (20m).

Take about 12 draws, including runners, and a single rack from a .3 to a #2 Camalot.

One of the most classic routes in Rio de Janeiro. Extremely varied 300m mixed climb with trad and bolts. A hard face, hard crack, and fun chimney climbing.

1. Pitch 1 (35m): Up cracks to ledge. Two bolts.

2. Pitch 2 (25m): Take crack to the left to ledge then crack up to DBB on bigger ledge with vegetation. Crack on the right at start of pitch is for "Variant Dança das Cabeças".

3. Pitch 3 (25m): Up to next ledges on right then left, and up crack that is bolted for aid climbing but now done free (crux, VIIc). Past ledge at the end of crack, then belay after arête. The "Variant Babuíno Silvestre" goes to the left of the crack, avoiding it all together and it's a VIIa in the Brazilian system.

4. Pitch 4 (25m): Go left then up through a difficult technical face, up a roof, then right to reach DBB.

5. Pitch 5 (45m): Up and slightly left.

6. Pitch 6 (35m): Start moving right, up, then diagonally left and up again.

7. Pitch 7 (30m): Up to ledge then left towards vegetation and slightly right to reach second ledge with DBB.

8. Pitch 8 (30m): Straight up veering slightly right to bolt on bushes.

9. Pitch 9 (30m): Left and up to ledge near bushes. Another 50m walking to summit.

Take large pieces of gear and medium cams - number 1 camalot to a number 4 for the first pitch; the rest of the route is bolted, but run out.

Needs medium cams. Starts from start of second pitch of "Lagartão", the thin crack to the right of belay.

This route goes to the left of the crack on P3 "Lagartão".

Full rack of cams and medium stoppers. Starts half way through "Variant Dança das Cabeças" taking it further to the right, with a horizontal section linking it to "Urubu à Vista".

Needs micro-friends, cams from 1/2 to 2 1/2, and medium to large stoppers. Starts after "Variant Dança das Cabeças", taking the crack to the left of the main route.

Full rack of cams. To the left of "Variant Senhor dos Anéis".

Mixed. Take full rack of cams and stoppers. Starts to the right of the base of "Lagartão".

1. Pitch 1 (35m): Starts from ledge, up to next ledge on right then move left to get to the vertical crack. The bolts to the right are for the route "Cocoricó".

2. Pitch 2 (30m): Straight up. Most people don't do the second pitch as the grade lowers significantly to a IV in the Brazilian grade system.

Shares first 3 bolts with "Urubu à Vista" and then goes right and up to join "Urubu à Vista" again at the end of first pitch.

Starts on the ledge where the aid climbing of Lagartão begins and finishes linking with Chaminé Gallotti. First and last pitches all on trad. Take a full rack of cams and stoppers. Abseiling is only possible using 2 ropes.

1. Pitch 1 (45m): Starts moving right from ledge And up crack to DBB at the end of crack.

2. Pitch 2 (25m): Straight up.

3. Pitch 3 (25m): Up, then left, coming back right to belay from ledge.

4. Pitch 4 (30m): Crux. Straight up to ledge.

5. Pitch 5 (25m): Easy horizontal to the right

6. Pitch 6 (20m): Easy horizontal to the right until you reach "Chaminé Gallotti".

Connects "Chaminé Gallotti" and "Lagartão". Starts from half way of the 3rd pitch of "Chaminé Gallotti", after the first chimney section, moving on the ledge all the way to the left and taking the corner crack up till you reach the ledge at the end of 2nd pitch of "Lagartão".

Take medium stoppers and cams.

Needs a couple of #3 and #1 cams and stoppers. Starts at the start of "Variant Kid" and goes towards "Xeque-mate".

All trad. 1 set of cams. Starts about 4m before the final ledge of "Variant Kid" and goes towards the ledge of "Lagartão".

Needs a couple of big pieces (#4 cams) and some smaller ones (1 and 1.5). Starts one bolt before the first ledge in "Chaminé Gallotti" and goes to "Variant Faro Fino".

280m trad route. It's worth taking 2 ropes in case an abseil is needed. Take at least one large cam (#4) and some large stoppers.

1. Pitch 1 (20m): Scramble up vegetation to belay at big tree.

2. Pitch 2 (40m): Easy climb up all the way to belay on large ledge with tree.

3. Pitch 3 (50m): Up 4 sets of chimneys to belay on ledge with big boulders.

4. Pitch 4 (40m): Up to ledge, slightly right, up some vegetation to large ledge.

5. Pitch 5 (15m): Crux. Corner to ledge at base of large chimney.

6. Pitch 6 (45m): Up chimney, out using corners to ledge then up some more to second ledge for belay.

7. Pitch 7 (40m): Awkward off-width chimney to ledge. Plus another 50m scramble to summit.