Routes as trad in Urca

A route from the "North face"[1613256762] that finishes up the "West face" and that is usually used as a continuation of the popular "Via dos Italianos" route on the West face.

This route begins in a squeeze chimney, then moves out onto the north west face of 'Pao de Acucar'. It is bolt protected, but is far from a sport climbing. The style is very characteristic of the area and it is a great route.

After reaching the shoulder between Pao de Acucar and Urca, head towards the north face of the formation. Secundo starts in the obvious dihedral/chimney.

Take 15 draws including several long runners.

This route is a chimney and is absolutely beautiful. Very characteristic of Rio and of Pao de Acucar. It is a long route, but can be done in a few hours if you are climbing well. Due to the wandering nature of the route it is best to have a topo/guidebook.

After making your way through the forest look for a couple of bolts leading to a hand crack and then a huge face above.

Take 16 draws and slings.

Mostly done on bolts, but cams and stoppers needed for the first 20m of the first pitch (small to medium cams or medium to large stoppers). It finishes at the anchors of the 5th pitch of "Secundo Costa Neto" and from there you can reach the summit in another 3 pitches (making it a total of 270m). You can combine pitches 2, 3 and 4 into 2 pitches.

The start is at a crack a just left of the start of the famous "Via dos Italianos" route.

1. Pitch 1: 40m 1st pitch has a short crack at the beginning, then diagonal right to the belay just up and left from the Italianos belay.

2. Pitch 2: 30m Trend left with some face climbing and VERY delicate slabby traverses

3. Pitch 3: 30m Trend left with some face climbing and VERY delicate slabby traverses

4. Pitch 4: 25m

One of the nicest climbs on the Sugar Loaf!

Some fairly long run-outs between bolts by modern standards. Take long slings to help with rope drag. Some of the belays on this route are off one bolt.

The most famous route on Pao de Acucar and a mega classic for Rio. It's often done in two or three pitches and doesn't go all the way to the top. It's usually completed by connecting to other routes along the "West face", going all the way to the summit. This technical face and slab climb is directly under the cable car. The most common way is connecting with Cavalo Louco using either the "Variante da Italianos para o Cavalo Louco", or the "Variante Darcy Ribeiro" and then linking with Secundo Costa Neto. Either way, from base to summit is approximately 270m of fairly sustained climbing.

1. Pitch 1, 35m; Slab climbing through to the technical face crux near belay

2. Pitch 2, 43m; A sustained slab and face.

3. Pitch 3, 20m, Continue upwards to belay at shared anchor with CEPI or continue to make use of your full rope length.

Take about 14 draws and a few runners. This routes takes around 3-6 hours to climb to the summit.

There is a new finish on a bolted line aside the ferrata - "CEPI em Livre".

Nice and a bit more exposed/run out than the "Via dos Italianos" or "Cavalo Louco".

1. Pitch 1: 45m;

2. Pitch 2: 45m;

3. Pitch 3: 25m;

4. Pitch 4: 35m;

5. Pitch 5: 40m;

6. Pitch 6: 40m;

Take 10 quickdraws. End of 2nd pitch is on the same ledge as CEPI.

Ends at the last pitch of "Cisco Kid". Need to take cliff hangers, small to medium stoppers and some micro-friends.

To get to the base, you'll need to go down about 50m from the start of "CEPI" following a track along the margins of the mountain.

1. Pitch 1: 40m; Careful in the first pitch as there are frequently nests of hornets in some of the cracks/holes.

2. Pitch 2: 40m;

3. Pitch 3: 25m;

4. Pitch 4: 45m;

5. Pitch 5: 40m; The route ends at Cisco Kid fourth anchors, so if you climb the last 2 pitches of 'Cisco Kid', you'll reach the summit (total 280m).

Take 12 quickdraws.

There's a variant coming out of the 2nd anchors - the original goes right and finishes on a ledge; the variant goes kind of straight up, missing the ledge and heading straight to the next set of anchors. If you choose to take the variant, make sure your rope is long enough (60m). The variant is usually taken when the original is a bit wet because of the bushy ledge. The variant is a bit harder as well, rating VIsup Brazilian grading.

Used as a shortcut for the "Costão"[2476002666] track and therefore commonly soloed. Starts at a streak of basalt on the wall. First bolt is at 15m high.

1. 40m Goes up a couple of ledges in the first pitch to reach double ring bolts after a slight diagonal crack to the right.

2. 30m It traverses back to the left and up.

3. 35m Last pitch goes up and left and then right after the third bolt to reach some blocks that will lead to Costão track.

Take 10 quickdraws.

A 130m classic face climb on the south face of Pao de Acucar; a techy face on tiny little crimps and smears. This route is the third obvious line through the vegetation from the right.

1. Pitch 1: 30m;

2. Pitch 2: 35m, Stopping at a nice ledge.

3. Pitch 3: 35m; Trend right and then up and left.

4. Pitch 4: 30m; Through a bit of vegetation to reach "Costão"[2476002666] track.

11 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

The chimney that runs up the left side of the Totem formation on the south face of Pao de Acucar.

Route is bolted but only sparsely (no more than 3 to 4 bolts per pitch). Sometimes hard to see/find them, so good route finding skills are necessary, although it's mostly straight forward. At 3rd belay station make sure to go right from the ledge/tree. To the left is a variant graded at 5o A1 in the Brazilian grade system.

1. 1st pitch (30m): 3 bolts on slab and belay from single bolt on ledge.

2. 2nd pitch (50m): Slightly left to tree, then ledge, up chimney with one bolt, then ledge and another chimney with 2 bolts and then below from ledge on DBB.

3. 3rd pitch (40m): Continue up chimney with one bolt, then past roof and ledge with there is a DBB, continue up passing trees to get to bigger ledge (salão azul) and below from tree.

4. 4th pitch (40m): Walk right towards the end of the ledge and up past a small ledge with one bolt, some loose rocks and tight chimney to get a single bolt.

5. 5th pitch (40m): Up chimney with 3 bolts to get to DBB at the end.

6. 6th pitch (20m): Up past 3 bolts to get to DBB.

7. 7th pitch (20m): Left and up past 3 bolts to reach DBB. 50m walk to summit.

Starts from Largatão, crossing left to reach the west face of the Toten.

Take a full rack of cams and stoppers.

Mixed climb (trad on 2nd pitch). Continues from "Limiar das Lacas" going right, left and then right again to reach the latter part of "Limiar da Loucura".

Take small to medium cams and stoppers.

One of the most classic routes in Rio de Janeiro. Extremely varied 300m mixed climb with trad and bolts. A hard face, hard crack, and fun chimney climbing.

1. Pitch 1 (35m): Up cracks to ledge. Two bolts.

2. Pitch 2 (25m): Take crack to the left to ledge then crack up to DBB on bigger ledge with vegetation. Crack on the right at start of pitch is for "Variant Dança das Cabeças".

3. Pitch 3 (25m): Up to next ledges on right then left, and up crack that is bolted for aid climbing but now done free (crux, VIIc). Past ledge at the end of crack, then belay after arête. The "Variant Babuíno Silvestre" goes to the left of the crack, avoiding it all together and it's a VIIa in the Brazilian system.

4. Pitch 4 (25m): Go left then up through a difficult technical face, up a roof, then right to reach DBB.

5. Pitch 5 (45m): Up and slightly left.

6. Pitch 6 (35m): Start moving right, up, then diagonally left and up again.

7. Pitch 7 (30m): Up to ledge then left towards vegetation and slightly right to reach second ledge with DBB.

8. Pitch 8 (30m): Straight up veering slightly right to bolt on bushes.

9. Pitch 9 (30m): Left and up to ledge near bushes. Another 50m walking to summit.

Take large pieces of gear and medium cams - number 1 camalot to a number 4 for the first pitch; the rest of the route is bolted, but run out.

Needs medium cams. Starts from start of second pitch of "Lagartão", the thin crack to the right of belay.

Full rack of cams and medium stoppers. Starts half way through "Variant Dança das Cabeças" taking it further to the right, with a horizontal section linking it to "Urubu à Vista".

Needs micro-friends, cams from 1/2 to 2 1/2, and medium to large stoppers. Starts after "Variant Dança das Cabeças", taking the crack to the left of the main route.

Full rack of cams. To the left of "Variant Senhor dos Anéis".

Mixed. Take full rack of cams and stoppers. Starts to the right of the base of "Lagartão".

1. Pitch 1 (35m): Starts from ledge, up to next ledge on right then move left to get to the vertical crack. The bolts to the right are for the route "Cocoricó".

2. Pitch 2 (30m): Straight up. Most people don't do the second pitch as the grade lowers significantly to a IV in the Brazilian grade system.

Shares first 3 bolts with "Urubu à Vista" and then goes right and up to join "Urubu à Vista" again at the end of first pitch.

Starts on the ledge where the aid climbing of Lagartão begins and finishes linking with Chaminé Gallotti. First and last pitches all on trad. Take a full rack of cams and stoppers. Abseiling is only possible using 2 ropes.

1. Pitch 1 (45m): Starts moving right from ledge And up crack to DBB at the end of crack.

2. Pitch 2 (25m): Straight up.

3. Pitch 3 (25m): Up, then left, coming back right to belay from ledge.

4. Pitch 4 (30m): Crux. Straight up to ledge.

5. Pitch 5 (25m): Easy horizontal to the right

6. Pitch 6 (20m): Easy horizontal to the right until you reach "Chaminé Gallotti".

Connects "Chaminé Gallotti" and "Lagartão". Starts from half way of the 3rd pitch of "Chaminé Gallotti", after the first chimney section, moving on the ledge all the way to the left and taking the corner crack up till you reach the ledge at the end of 2nd pitch of "Lagartão".

Take medium stoppers and cams.

Needs a couple of #3 and #1 cams and stoppers. Starts at the start of "Variant Kid" and goes towards "Xeque-mate".

All trad. 1 set of cams. Starts about 4m before the final ledge of "Variant Kid" and goes towards the ledge of "Lagartão".

Needs a couple of big pieces (#4 cams) and some smaller ones (1 and 1.5). Starts one bolt before the first ledge in "Chaminé Gallotti" and goes to "Variant Faro Fino".

280m trad route. It's worth taking 2 ropes in case an abseil is needed. Take at least one large cam (#4) and some large stoppers.

1. Pitch 1 (20m): Scramble up vegetation to belay at big tree.

2. Pitch 2 (40m): Easy climb up all the way to belay on large ledge with tree.

3. Pitch 3 (50m): Up 4 sets of chimneys to belay on ledge with big boulders.

4. Pitch 4 (40m): Up to ledge, slightly right, up some vegetation to large ledge.

5. Pitch 5 (15m): Crux. Corner to ledge at base of large chimney.

6. Pitch 6 (45m): Up chimney, out using corners to ledge then up some more to second ledge for belay.

7. Pitch 7 (40m): Awkward off-width chimney to ledge. Plus another 50m scramble to summit.

This is a long scramble up the east face of Pao de Acucar.

There is a 30m section of vertical 5.7 about half way up the face. It's fairly straight forward, but is technical climbing.

Take some draws and a short rope for the crux.

Located on the gently-sloping east face of the mountain, Heineken is a great route for first-time and beginner climbers who want to climb to the top of Sugarloaf. Best done in the afternoon. 3 hours to summit

Localização: Pão de Açúcar - Urca ( Rio de Janeiro ) Conquistadores: André Ilha, José Luiz Lozada e Renato Souto Ano: 1979 Um verdadeiro passeio pelo Pão de Açúcar com um visual pouco conhecido da maioria dos escaladores. A base da via é comum ao Paredão Atlanta, só que ambas as vias possuem uma grampeação longa em alguns trechos (como no início) então é necessária muita atenção para não errar: O Paredão Atlanta sai em DIAGONAL e o Iemanjá em HORIZONTAL, ambas para direita. obs: para chegar na base siga junto a pedra após as outras vias desta face (Bohemia, Heineken, Chaminé Pão de Açúcar...)

No caso do Paredão Iemanjá a via passa numa faixa de pedra entre os gravatás, seguindo para a direita sempre (atenção: vai haver uma descida no meio da horizontal que é ruim pro participante, estudar possibilidade de um mini-rapell). A referencia para começar a subir (onde começa o croqui do André Ilha) é um grampo de 5/8".

Após o crux a via segue por um grande trecho de mato para cima, faz uma diagonal sem grampos para a direita (2°) até atingir um platô gigante com árvores = caminhada. Isso não está bem representado no croqui e certamente será confuso para quem não conhece.

Não entre nessa via se houver possibilidade de chuva, o rapell pode não ser possivel nessas condições... O grampo antes do crux, depois da horizontal, está com a solda do tarugo e olhal próximo a pedra em avançado grau de corrosão.

Recomendo usar a fita com boca de lobo no tarugo.

2° IIIsup E2/E3

This is a variant start to Salomith, linking at first double bolts. Only the first move is a 17. Rest is about a 13. Start at a plateau about 6m up from the main track that runs along the base of all climbs. 11 quickdraws to end of first pitch.

Fifth (if you count the variant Novos Horizontes) from the left on north face. First bolt is above a small ledge, a bit higher and to the right of Novos Horizontes. You can reach the summit by linking with Ricardo Prado after the third belay station. There are a few variants along the way so it's easy to mix routes up. The original goes up for 45m to the first DRBs slightly to the left. It then goes up and slightly to the right for another 45m to the second belay station. It then moves up a bit to traverse left to the 3rd stop, about 30m up. 8 quickdraws plus slings and extra biners.

7th routhe from the left. Starts at an arete, and the first bolt is right after it. Mostly easy with a couple of moves at 18. First pitch goes for 50m and it's about a 13. Second pitch is again 50m, a bit harder, at 14/15 but with an 18 section. Third pitch is only about 25m and it's super easy. 4th pitch is again about 25m long, and about a 17. 8 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

Eigth route from the left. A bit run out. Mostly a 14/15. Last pitch is an 18. Finishes at the same ledge as Roda Viva

9th route from the left. Very close to Jacques Costeau (some would say too close!). Abseil from Roda Viva to spare the remaining vegetation along the route.

10th route from the left, about 20 right from Arca de Noé. Grade is very constant, unlike many on this wall. 13 quick draws plus a few slings and biners.

11th route from the left, about 20m right of Vilma Arnaud. First bolt is about 15m high. First route on this wall, from 1965. Very constant grade. 10 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

12th route from the left. Hard to find as first bolt is quite high and hidden by a tree. A bit run out, particularly last pitch. Veers diagonally to the right after 3 pitch. Better option is to go up straight after 3rd pitch and link with Ilusões da Guanabara. Better abseiling this way. 7 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

Run out and full of traverses. Starts 15m from IV Sol. Up to first bolt is a 17, and then eases down to a 15/16. After 2 pitch starts going horizontally/diagonally right all the way to the top.

Starts after the firth bolt on Denise Macedo, taking it all the way straight up. Grade is quite constant at 16/17. 8 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

14th route from the left. Starts at a 2m-high block. 14 quickdraws if you feel like clipping every single bolt in the quite over protected pitches.

About 100m to the right of Luiz Arnaud. Lots of vegetation for the first few meters. First pitch is the hardest. 7 quickdraws, slings and extra carabiners.

Starts at a high crack (easy). Tends to be a bit wet due to some vegetation around it. 7 quickdraws, some slings and extra carabiners.

50m right of Soleil. 5 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

Starts on top of some blocks of rock. Half way through the wall it becomes a bit more run out. 7 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

20m to the right of Lindaurea Pereira

Overhang about 15m before Fissura Tropical

Not as nice as it used to be as some concrete slabs have been built there to prevent rock fall. Mixed route with one bolt at the start. Small and medium stoppers plus large hexes. Starts at thin crack just to the left of Diedro Pégaso.

First 25m is up a nice layback crack, then the rest 60m is face climbing. Although crack has been bolted, it can be done completely with trad gear. 6 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

60m to the right of Diedro Pégaso. Careful not to mix it up with an unfinished route 12m to its left, with bolts very close together. First bolt at around 8m from the ground. Very easy but run out. 4 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

20m right of Cervino. There's another unfinished route in between the two. Starts climbing up to a narrow rock ledge, then left up to the first bolt, about 15m high from the ground. Very easy but run out. 4 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

Starts at diagonal and then horizontal crack to the left, right after Cabritos. After the crack it goes up on face climbing very run out. Crack has been bolted but can be fully protected with trad gear instead. 5 quickdraws if using just bolts, plus slings and extra carabiners.

Entrada particular

Entrada particular

Around the obvious crack from left to right. Pre-placing gear is advisable. Small and micro cams, stoppers and RPs.