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The Dark Side Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Mitchell Canham Nathan Marculis Josh Worley Riley Ewing olivier labbee Josiah Connolly Jet Tecson Vincent Pearson

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. The Dark Side 42 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 52.501336, -116.025830

summary

Long limestone cliff band with great challenging climbing

description

Shady limestone cliff gets some morning sun. Amazing belay station including natural benches.

access issues

This area is crown land.

approach

About 5km East of Nordegg. Take the forest road for 1.6km, there will be a small grassy pull off on the right. Follow the hiking trail on the West side of the road towards the cliff.

ethic

You can support the David Thompson Corridor Bolt Fund directly at the link below. https://www.gofundme.com/f/david-thompson-bolt-fund?fbclid=IwAR1N-uUwTTVtwd8GDheyCTfPZsZQFTLAlUEFkMFEnypOI6c8c6ZnsZSMyzg

history

This crag has been mostly developed by the COE. Please support them or pick up a copy of their guidebook for the area.

More info here: http://www.coe.ca/

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hospitality

Starts 5m left of 'Take That Cael' Go up the face with pockets to the roof.

Set: T. Bremicker, 2012

5.11d Sport 6
2 Take That Cael

Start in the Left facing corning.

Set: M. Amyotte, 2011

5.8 Trad
3 Jedi Guide Tricks

Use the rope around the tree to get to the first bolt.

Set: A. Goodine, 2018

5.8 Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Grabba the Crux

Set: C. Volkart, 2013

5.11a Sport
5 Encased in Carbonite

Set: K. Noruschat, 2016

5.11d Sport 6
6 The Dark Lord

Set: T. Taylor, 2018

5.11c Sport
7 Ewok Skywalk

Set: T. Taylor, 2018

5.10a Sport
8 The Empire Strikes Jen

Set: M. Adolph, J. Adolph & B. Boychuck, 2010

5.10b Sport
9 E-Vader

Set: T. Taylor, 2019

5.11d Sport
10 Kyber Crystal 5.11d Sport
11 Fear is the Dark Side

Set: M. Adolph & J. Adolph, 2016

5.11a Sport
12 The Dark Side is Sændy

Extension of 'Fear is the Dark Side'

Set: K. Noruschat

5.12b Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 Using the Force

This is the first route you see at the top of the trailhead. Start up the dihedral to fun pockets above, holds get sparse as you get near the top.

Set: M. Adolph, J. Adolph & T.D. Elson, 2006

5.10c Sport
14 Wooky's Woot

Set: M. Adolph, J. Adolph & T.D. Elson, 2006

5.9 Sport 8
15 A New Hope

Set: M. Adolph & J. Adolph, 2017

5.10b Sport 11
16 Rim Job

Set: J. Goodwin & C. Straus, 2004

5.10b Sport 5
17 A Disturbance in the Force

Climb up the loose corner before pulling through roof. Finish on balancey moves through the face above on pockets.

Set: M. Adolph & J. Adolph

5.11b Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 Who's Been Sleeping in my Tauntaun?

Set: A. Goodine, 2016

5.10d Sport 7
19 Chewbakaka

Fun layback down low to sustained climbing above to the finish.

Set: T. Taylor & M. Adolph, 2016

5.11b Sport 8
20 Jedi Master

Set: K. Noruschat & T. Taylor, 2017

5.11b/c Sport 9
21 The Jedi's Apprentice

Set: K. Noruschat, 2016

5.10a Sport 8
22 Yoda's Yodel

Set: B. Young, 2006

5.10d Sport 7
23 Wet Sith

This is the middle of 3 routes on this flat section of wall. Lots of super fun pockets! Beware a few might be wet inside. Climb through a couple small roofs to the finish.

Set: T. Hasse & C.Straus, 2004

5.10a Sport 7
24 General Grievous 5.11c Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
25 Dirty Girls

Set: J. Mills, 2004

5.11a Sport 9
26 Dirty Nuts

Set: J. Mills, 2004

5.8 Mixed trad 2
27 The Princes' Buns

Set: M. Adolph & I. Curran, 2016

5.10d Sport 7
28 You Can't Sith With Us

Up the right side of the featured corner, pull over the small roof to challenging face climbing above.

Set: A. Goodine, 2016

5.10a Sport 7
29 Bunnies and Muffins

Straight up to the left of the roof, head right to go above the roof to the anchor.

Set: T. Hasse, 2005

5.9 Sport 9
30 Is That a Lightsabre in Your Pocket?

Set: M. Adolph & J. Adolph, 2016

5.8 Sport 16m, 7
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
31 Nerf Herder

Set: T. Taylor et All, 2016

5.10b Sport
32 Help Me Obi Wan

Set: M. Adolph & T. Taylor, 2016

5.10d Sport
33 You're Looking in Alderan Places

This route lives up to its name, there are lots of hidden holds trust your instincs to get to the finish.

Set: M. Smith, A. Cotterell & A. Goodine, 2016

5.9 Sport
34 Boba Fett Arete

Set: Josh Rowlands & Tim Taylor

5.10d Sport
35 Dagobah

FA: A. Oriol, C. Ormewilliams & S. Smith, 2019

5.10b/c Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
36 Obi Wan Canopy

Starts left of the pine tree against the wall on a big right facing crack. Laybacks and face climbing lead to an reasonable path through the roof.

Set: Nick Shain & Tim Taylor

5.10b Sport
37 Do or Do Not

Set: M. Adolph, J. Adolph & T. Taylor, 2016

5.11a Sport 8
38 Mike's Route

Set: Mike Adolph

5.10d Sport
39 These Aren’t The Droids You're looking For

Set: Mike Adolph, 2019

5.11b Sport
40 These Aren’t The Holds You’re Looking For

Set: Tobi Von Butler

5.11c Sport
41 Turkish Delight

Set: B. Larson, 2006

5.10c Sport
42 Moss Eisley

Set: Adam Vaughan & Tim Taylor

5.11b Sport

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
5.8 Dirty Nuts Mixed trad 2
Is That a Lightsabre in Your Pocket? Sport 16m, 7
Jedi Guide Tricks Sport
Take That Cael Trad
5.9 Bunnies and Muffins Sport 9
Wooky's Woot Sport 8
You're Looking in Alderan Places Sport
5.10a Ewok Skywalk Sport
The Jedi's Apprentice Sport 8
Wet Sith Sport 7
You Can't Sith With Us Sport 7
5.10b A New Hope Sport 11
Nerf Herder Sport
Obi Wan Canopy Sport
Rim Job Sport 5
The Empire Strikes Jen Sport
5.10b/c Dagobah Sport
5.10c Turkish Delight Sport
Using the Force Sport
5.10d Boba Fett Arete Sport
Help Me Obi Wan Sport
Mike's Route Sport
The Princes' Buns Sport 7
Who's Been Sleeping in my Tauntaun? Sport 7
Yoda's Yodel Sport 7
5.11a Dirty Girls Sport 9
Do or Do Not Sport 8
Fear is the Dark Side Sport
Grabba the Crux Sport
5.11b A Disturbance in the Force Sport
Chewbakaka Sport 8
Moss Eisley Sport
These Aren’t The Droids You're looking For Sport
5.11b/c Jedi Master Sport 9
5.11c General Grievous Sport
The Dark Lord Sport
These Aren’t The Holds You’re Looking For Sport
5.11d E-Vader Sport
Encased in Carbonite Sport 6
Hospitality Sport 6
Kyber Crystal Sport
5.12b The Dark Side is Sændy Sport
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