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Routes as trad in Dune Wall

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
5.11c Chocolate Cake

A beautiful climb established ground up and protected solely on solid natural pro with single bolt and piton anchors. The pitches get harder as you climb.

  1. Locate a fixed piton at the base of the route and follow a faint corner system up to the obvious black corner above. Belay from a bolt and finger sized gear at a comfortable stance. (62m, 5.8)

  2. Climb the black corner which takes gear up to a #5 BD Camalot. Belay at a ledge with a bolt and good nuts. (30m, 5.10b).

  3. Traverse right along the ledge and up the right of two cracks in a slightly overhanging wall. Pull a small roof to a sustained wall with pods before exiting right through blocks. Scramble to a two-piton belay. (35m, 5.11c).

FA: James Walter & Eric Klaszus, 2011

Trad 130m, 3
5.10b Long Forgotten

An excellent 4 or 5 pitch route with variations. All stations are fixed with 55m raps. A Standard rack to 3 inches is required.

  1. Start at an obvious weakness to the right of Chocolate Cake trending right to a bolt and piton anchor. (55m, 5.5R)

  2. Continue up weakness to the base of a corner and steeper rock belaying from a single bolt and gear. (30m, 5.6R)

  3. Climb the corner to the next ledge system and a two-bolt anchor 10m up and left from the ledge. (30m, 5.10a)

  4. A few variations exist here however this is the most well known. Head left into a corner and then follow a crack left of the corner to a big ledge. (55n, 5.9).

  5. Step right to get into a corner with big loose blocks, climbing up to a ledge with a two-bolt anchor. (30m, 5.8).

Trad 190m, 5
5.9 Stilgar's Corner

The classic route of the area. This is the obvious, bright orange left facing corner you can easily spot from the carpark. The climbing is fun with solid rock and gear. A single rack to #3 is required with a few doubles in the medium sizes. A #4 BD camalot is can be handy as well. A bolted anchor is found on the obvious ledge to your right 30m up the corner.

Trad 32m

Showing all 3 routes.

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