Ascents in Canada by Sergey Komarov

Nothing else was going today. Tired, hot and humid.

#2

Somehow felt easier than 'Lake Warm-up SDS' (V0).

Probably helped that I'd inspected the holds.

#1

A struggle today.

Rested once, having tried to use only the left crack.

#TRS

Clean top rope solo on second attempt. Didn't try to eliminate right crack.

#TRS

Top rope solo onsight

Looks protectable on lead.

#TRS

Top roped and bounce tested placements.

Easy climbing, but fun.

Top rope to clean

Positive holds. Sparse at the top - unless you go left?

Top roped to clean

Went first try after changing to climbing shoes and putting the pad down. Frightened some hikers popping over the lip.

Standing jump start as the landing was a bit slippery, didn't want to do a running jump.

Very morpho and probably ungradable. I'll log this ascent thecrag's V4 for now, but only because I don't know what it should be.

Did a sit start.

Nice crimpy moves on the overhang.

Couldn't do the first move.

I did a crouch start at the quartz crystal, not sitting lower down.

Then single move to get left hand to the lip before mantling. Found V1 for this beta online, but that feels very stiff. V3 sounds more believable to me, so logged as V2.

Thin hands for me. Feel like my jams improved a lot while working this out.

Fun. Easy moves to start, reachy middle, top out.

Crack was very wet, so didn't try to jam.

Nice rising traverse.

The crack was dripping wet, but some holds were positive enough that it didn't matter.

Took a few tries to stick the jump start. Broke a toenail accidently kicking the wall. Then couldn't finish as I was in running shoes.

This was a fun one. Starts on a jug, slopers, then more jugs.

Sloppy, but onsight.

I did a sit start. Guide is ambiguous on whether that's required.

Couldn't work out body position to get off ramp.

One move and a lichen mantle.

Thought I'd do one more to end the day. Nope.

End of the session, but felt stronger than my first time on it.

Pretty close. Worked out until skin was almost gone, around 20 goes?

Just a single pad. Stacking would feel like cheating.

Felt easy.

Contact strength much improved from first time.

Middle was wet. Came off.

Can't find a good left hand to start.

Bailed half way up. Probably past the crux, but wasn't feeling it. Especially looking down to see the wind taking away the pad.

Third repeat of the session was a failure. Kept coming off the starting crimps.

Pulling onto the sit start was a struggle today.

Doesn't feel soft like the other day.

Probably some combination of heat and yesterday's vaccination.

Crux is first move.

Went for the wrong hand on onsight attempt. Should have had it.

Felt soft for V3, but more my style than the granite I've mostly been on lately.

Repeat more gracefully

Took a couple tries to get the kneebar solid and another couple to move from there. Nice couple moves!

Not sure where the intended line was, but did something V0ish

First time leading it, but I rehearsed the gear on TRS a while back. Easy.

Lead again with all different gear. The bottom protects very well, the top is trickier to protect but ~5.2.

Guidebook says top rope only, but it's probably ok to lead on gear. The bottom has a nice, slightly flaring crack. Top has sparse pro but very easy climbing.

Interesting moves at the bottom. Super easy top.

Didn't have enough daylight to give it a good go, but this looks really good. Nice crimps widely spaced.

Wasn't feeling it - tired and without a spotter. Looks like a good one though.

Dirty

Dodgy topout/descent

Spray paint is slippery...

Last one before it was too dark, just when my fingers are finally warm.