Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Mon 28th Aug 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
Slhanay | ||||||
5.10d | ★★★ The Great Game | 220m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Led an extended P2 and P4. Nice varied pitches, not a bad route to finish our trip on
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5.10d | The Invisible staircase | 20m, 7 | Average | |||
It was ok for a black slab, hard at second bolt and sting in tail. A bit more traffic needed to keep the moss away.
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Sat 26th Aug 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
The Malamute Grub Street | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Sod Buster | 25m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Did this and finished up a 5.9 on Stooges I had done before. My shoes have got stickier, or the angle has gone down, these slabs feel easy now, when I used to be terrified.
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5.9 | ★★ Old Style | 30m | ★ Good | |||
There are so many right facing dihedral a in Squamish. This is another
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5.10a | ★★ Cider crack | 25m | ★ Good | |||
I actually belayed half way after linking with lower pitch, but rope drag became excessive...... Another excellent crack
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5.10c | ★★★ Cling Peaches | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not too bad for grade, nice tips climbing, starts under Stooges slab, 2 ledges down
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5.11a | ★★ Grub Street Direct | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Did it while waiting for Grub Street to clear of traffic, starts below stooges slab, 2 ledges down
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Fri 25th Aug 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Grand Wall Base Grand Wall Base Central | ||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Apron Strings | 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Dave led P1, I led P2 as start of Great Wall. Great opener.
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Fri 25th Aug 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Grand Wall Base Flake Ledge | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Merci Me | 70m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Dave led this as a 68 m rope stretcher as part of our Grand wall
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Fri 25th Aug 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Grand Wall | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ The Grand Wall | 300m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean- apart from the aid sections and a pull on the bolt on Perry's traverse whose "reachy move" is indeed out of reach. Our 5 am wake up saw us first on route ( at 630) but were soon pursued by 2 teams
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5.10b | ★★★ Split Pillar | 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I can jamb!
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5.11a | ★★★ The Sword | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
One stuck nut needed 2 hands to hammer it out, fixed rope up the aid section, very strenuous
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5.11a | ★★ Perry's Lieback | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Had a rest as arms still flamed from hauling up the Sword aid section quickly then straight into this to prevent a traffic jam
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5.10c | ★★ The Flats to Bellygood | 50m | ★ Good | |||
Ok, you wouldn't want to come off the 10a pitch. The last pitch at 10 c was much better, which I led
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Thu 24th Aug 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Witch Doctor's Apprentice | 25m | ★ Good | |||
One quite hard move through roof, though arm span may have something to do with it
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5.11a | ★ Power Windows | 20m | ★ Good | |||
I was to busy whimpering on slab traverse and run out arête with wind buffeting me to fall off
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Thu 24th Aug 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Apron South Gully | ||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Rock On | 140m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Led1,2,4, rapped down. Great climb
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Mon 21st Aug 2017 - Yak Peak | ||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Yak-Check | 650m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Did the climb in 4 hrs 15 min, simul climbing until pitch 8, then doing the rest in 4 pitches, and soloing off. Still a 7 hr + day with approach and 900m descent on ball bearings. Fun outing
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Sun 20th Aug 2017 - Cirque of the Unclimbables | ||||||
Huey Spires East Huey Spire | ||||||
21 |
★★★ Riders on the Storm
1
18
lead by
Dave
2
18
lead by
Me
3
21
lead by
Dave
4
5
6
7
8
| 150m | ★★★ Classic | |||
First 3 pitches only at 11a. The offwidth is even good
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Sun 20th Aug 2017 - Lake Louise | ||||||
The Amphitheatre | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Imaginary Face | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice and varied with some long moves
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Sun 20th Aug 2017 - Lake Louise | ||||||
Outhouse Area | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Exquisite Corpse | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Quite nice finger crack, but getting very cold
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Sun 20th Aug 2017 - Lake Louise | ||||||
Air Voyage Wall | ||||||
5.11c | ★★★ DEW Line | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Reachy crux, came off first go, sorted dodgy feet as can't reach from decent ledge, lowered to lay down rest and did from there. We had a shuttle to catch
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5.9 | ★★ Extra Dry | ★ Good | ||||
Nice hand jams.
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Sun 20th Aug 2017 - Lake Louise | ||||||
Goblin Wall | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ The Goblin | 100m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I was a bit underwhelmed by this supposed classic, and argue point perp has way better arêtes. Scary looking bolts , dirty rock, but great outlook. I started up the 11 b pitch before traversing to arête, so we probably made it a bit harder for ourselves
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Fri 18th Aug 2017 - Jasper National Park | ||||||
Ashlar Ridge | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Good Intention Bad Habits | 340m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The top pitch was definitely the best quality rock, good crux moves on 11a pitch, some slightly suboptimal rock quality in many spots, unfortunately the views obscured by smoke. Took us ages to get to start, picked a better descent line away from cliffs and trees. Massive bolting effort. Thanks to FA.
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Thu 17th Aug 2017 - Jasper National Park | ||||||
Rock Gardens Lower Garden | ||||||
5.10c | Twisted Kites | 25m | Average | |||
I wasn't having a fun time back on limestone
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5.8 | ★ Climb for Carolyn | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Long and not strenuous
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5.11a | ★ Climbing for Punishment | 14m | Average | |||
Good moves, pretty average rock. Misread the wandery crux, Dave had to show me the way
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Wed 16th Aug 2017 - Cirque of the Unclimbables | ||||||
Fairy meadows boulders and crags West bivy rock environs | ||||||
5.10c | Chimney block 2 | 15m, 3 | Average | |||
Harder start, then easy
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5.9 | Chimney block 3 | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Easier and more bolts, a bit dirty. Single bolt at top
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5.10d | ★ Chimney block 4 | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Took a couple of goes for the v- whatever start. It was the day after our first attempt at LFT and fingers and toes hurt
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5.10b | Chimney block 1 | 15m, 3 | Average | |||
Too run out for me
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5.12b | ★★★ Penguin neck | 10m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Got more injured on this than anything else. Had 2 shots, down to one problematic move, but shattered my tips. Still got the beak photo though
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Wed 16th Aug 2017 - Cirque of the Unclimbables | ||||||
Fairy meadows boulders and crags East bivy rock environs | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Toilet block top rope | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Easy to set up, and more fun blobby holds
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5.11d | ★ Toilet roof crack 1 | 10m | ★ Good | |||
If it hadn't been our last morning and I wasn't exhausted this may have happened. Nearly there on my second attempt. Jamming gloves rule.
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5.10b | ★ Toilet block face | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
A bit dirty, but fun route on big potato holds- after getting rained off LFT second go
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Tue 15th Aug 2017 - Cirque of the Unclimbables | ||||||
Terrace Tower | ||||||
5.11+ 5.11+ IV | ★★★ Brent's Hammer | 200m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Dave did all the hard work with pitches 1,3,5. Good quality climbing and nice not to hurry. We skipped pitch 6.
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Tue 15th Aug 2017 - Cirque of the Unclimbables | ||||||
Lotus Flower Tower | ||||||
5.10+ | ★★★ The Great Line SE Face - with David Gray | 850m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Third time lucky. First go was after 9 days rain and it was very wet. We got to top of pitch 12 before bailing at 9 pm after starting late due to guys in front, at 7 am. Second go retreated pitch 6 due to bad weather. Third go went smoothly, summit in 12 1/2 hours at 6 pm and back to camp before the sun set. Amazing route, lives up to the hype
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Fri 11th Aug 2017 - Cirque of the Unclimbables | ||||||
Fairy meadows boulders and crags West bivy rock environs | ||||||
5.5 | Triangular bloc left | 15m | Average | |||
Waiting for dave to bring back insect repellant. Gotta keep moving
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5.8 | Triangular bloc right | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Warming up for the penguin
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Fri 11th Aug 2017 - Cirque of the Unclimbables | ||||||
Huey Spires East Huey Spire | ||||||
5.10c | ★ The Messenger | 25m | ★ Good | |||
A bit dirty, probably easier than 10c
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5.11c | ★ Dark Crystal | 25m | ★ Good | |||
The seam needs a good clean out of moss before trying to lead this, but nice climbing up pebbles
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5.10d | ★★★ Inner Limits | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Despite its wide nature, this crack/ chimney was very fun, with many climbing tricks needed.
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5.9 | Rain Dance | 20m | Average | |||
Pretty easy except for one desperate reachy move for me with gear at feet
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Tue 25th Jul 2017 - Jasper National Park | ||||||
Lost Boys Main Wall | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Grab a Seat | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Just to first anchors as a warm up
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5.11c | ★★ Dog Day Afternoon | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Crimpy through roof
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Tue 25th Jul 2017 - Jasper National Park | ||||||
Lost Boys Wasted Youth Wall | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Wasted Youth | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Not very hard, but put off by 10 kg of rock shifting with my toe hook, beware large plate. Under roof, it is going to go
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5.10c | ★★★ Iggy Pop & The Three Stooges | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun and good rock
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5.12a | ★ Peer Pressure | 16m | ★ Good | |||
In the end ignored the chalk to left and crimped like mad across bolt
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Sun 23rd Jul 2017 - Jasper National Park | ||||||
Rock Gardens The Corner | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Lost Arrow Direct | 19m | ★ Good | |||
Steep, chalk everywhere, some on crap holds
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Sun 23rd Jul 2017 - Jasper National Park | ||||||
Lost Boys Main Wall | ||||||
5.11b | ★ Into the Blue | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Roof at mid height is desperate. Second go.
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5.11c | ★★ Number One | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Upper roof is nails.
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5.11b | ★★ Altered Beast | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Pretty juggy and not that hard
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5.10b | ★★ Super Brant Man | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Nice warm up
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Sat 22nd Jul 2017 - Jasper National Park | ||||||
Rock Gardens Guidekiller Sector | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Band-Aid Box | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tried to do the start without using the big stemming box, a mistake
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5.11a | ★ All Chalk No Action | 19m | ★ Good | |||
Hard first 5 metres, then sharp crimps
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Sat 22nd Jul 2017 - Jasper National Park | ||||||
Rock Gardens Puff Puff Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Puff Puff | 20m | Average | |||
Polished and wanders, overhyped
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5.10a | ★★ High Boltage | 19m | ★ Good | |||
Juggy fun
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Sat 22nd Jul 2017 - Lake Louise | ||||||
Duckland | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Howard the Duck | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Nice thuggy fun
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5.11d | ★★ Wild Frontiers | 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Technical crimping, second shot
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Sat 22nd Jul 2017 - Lake Louise | ||||||
Blob Rock | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ The Black Knight | 21m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Felt slippery at 9 deg, I am acclimatised to 36 at the moment.
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5.10c | ★ Crowded House | 19m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Messed up start. Pretty hard if short
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5.10d | ★★ Latest Squeeze | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Nice top section
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Thu 20th Jul 2017 - Kananaskis Country | ||||||
Kananaskis Lakes Mt Indefatigable | ||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Joy - with David Gray | 610m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Alt 70 m pitches with Dave. He stayed in his approach shoes the whole way. Not sure where 5.7 is, the descent was more challenging. Great views and fun feature. Booty cam and wire. Nice to get out of the smoke in the Bow valley.
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Wed 19th Jul 2017 - Canmore | ||||||
EEOR | ||||||
5.9 5.8 | ★★ Eeyore's Tail | 360m | Average | |||
Did in 6 long pitches with 70 m rope. May have scored higher if we hadn't been climbing in dense smoke and ash from the BC fires and could see the view, and breathe! Rock quality improved in upper half. Walked down, left hostel 2 pm ,back at 10pm
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Tue 18th Jul 2017 - Canmore | ||||||
Cougar Canyon House of Cards | ||||||
5.11b | ★ Is That Your Dog? | 25m | Average | |||
A bit more run out and rock quality a bit iffy. Exciting crux
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5.10c 5.11a | ★★ Ashtaroth. | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Done as one 45 m pitch with P 2
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5.11a | ★★ Ashtarotha P2 | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice roof moves
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5.10c | ★★ Talamasca | 43m, 18 | ||||
P1 10 b, P2 10 c, did as one long route, 18 draws
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5.11b | ★★ Heliopolis | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Another nice long route
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Sun 16th Jul 2017 - Canmore | ||||||
EEOR | ||||||
5.10c 5.10a - c | ★★ True Grit (True Grit variant) | 170m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Led P1,3,5. It may be the change of rock to limestone, but this felt quite sustained. 3 hours up, 30 min down and a stiff hike from the road
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Sat 15th Jul 2017 - Valley of the Ten Peaks | ||||||
The Grand Sentinel | ||||||
5.10d | ★★★ Cardiac Arete | 110m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Amazing setting, Canada's answer to the Moai. Beautiful overhung juggy arête
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5.9 | ★★★ South Face (The Grand Sentinel) | 90m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Loved the hanging chimney on pitch 3. Rock quality a bit crap in spots, but fun trad route with a nice 2.5 hr walk in
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Thu 13th Jul 2017 - Blanket Creek Buttress | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Blanket Arête | 50m | Average | |||
Strange bolting, average rock, non sustained
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5.11b | ★★ The Darkside | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Well bolted, sustained and great varied moves
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5.10d | Blanket arête 10 d variant | 25m | Average | |||
About 5 m of good climbing
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5.11b | ★★ Dark Matters | 32m | ★ Good | |||
Definitely a taller persons route. Some desperate lunges from me, and significantly more run out than Darkside
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Thu 13th Jul 2017 - Begbie Bluffs | ||||||
Rabbit Wall | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Good guys wear black | 25m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Rock quite arapiles lik at top
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5.10a 5.9 | ★ Fields of clover (Route right of JB) | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Steep start for grade
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5.11d | ★ Force of one | 25m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Placed a few cams on first lap to fill in the gaps. Hard fingery start
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5.10c | ★ Jack the rabbit | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Interesting start, quite pumpy. Then eases off
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5.11a 5.11b | Myxomatosis (Route through roof left of Octagon) | 25m, 8 | Average | |||
I think we were sandbagged by a local. Felt like my shoulder was about to pop
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Mon 10th Jul 2017 - West Kootenays | ||||||
Valhalla Provincial Park Mt Gimli | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Lusting After Women - with David Gray | 300m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rock a lot grittier due to relative lack of traffic, but great line. We rappelled after P 4 as couldn't be arsed to walk down east ridge again.
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Sat 8th Jul 2017 - West Kootenays | ||||||
Woodbury | ||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Salsa Dance | 30m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Offered to clean it for Dave. Very technical, quite unique moves
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5.11c | ★★ The Last Waltz | 30m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
The bail Biner is at the roof for a reason. Couldn't hold the side pull in the 36 degree heat and happily used it
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5.10c | ★ Lichengitis | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Interesting moves up the nose if you are too short to bridge
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5.10c | ★★ Let It Bleed | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really funky incut holds and sidepulls
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5.10c | Lovely lady Liss | 20m, 7 | Average | |||
Easier to clean, and ledge fall potential real. Hard start, but had to do it for photo opportunity
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5.10d | ★★ Upside-down | 15m | ★ Good | |||
The guide topo doesn't seem correct.also The grades on this and LLL could be swapped
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Fri 7th Jul 2017 - West Kootenays | ||||||
Slocan Valley Slocan Bluffs Roadside | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Salamander | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Trick slabby stemming thing, I think height dependent
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5.8 | ★★ The Big Easy | 30m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Very incut, would be 5.4 at Squamish
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5.9 | ★ Booms 'n Busts | 29m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Recent cleaning work has left a lot of dirt, we tried to brush more
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5.10b | ★★ Funky earth mother chick | 32m | ★ Good | |||
Good moves up high
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5.11a | ★★ Don't Pull Too Hard Baby | 32m | ★★ Very Good | |||
After a scrappy start this route is gold
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5.10c | ★ Forever Young | 33m | ★ Good | |||
The sun was coming, needs more traffic
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5.10b | ★★ Under the Big Top | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Corner was quite slippery, but was getting over 30 degrees by then
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Fri 7th Jul 2017 - West Kootenays | ||||||
Valhalla Provincial Park Mt Gimli | ||||||
5.10a | ★★★ South Ridge - with David Gray | 350m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Led from lunch ledge onwards. Heavy snow season, so although it was painful seconding with 2 sets of crampons, boots and ice axes for the first 4 pitches,very happy to have them on descent. The rock was dry, the weather great, the route spectacular and the camping below the ridge in a stunning location
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Tue 4th Jul 2017 - The Boulderfields | ||||||
Dark side wall | ||||||
5.10d | ★ Deception | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Didn't manage this as elegantly as Dave
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5.11c | ★★ Evil intentions | 17m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Intermediates a little mossy, cleaned them up, nice climb
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5.11d | ★★ Armed robbery | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Roof move quite tough. Deserves more traffic, a really nice route, great rock
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