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Ascents in Canada by Vanessa Wills

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 279 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Mon 28th Aug 2017 - Squamish
Slhanay
5.10d The Great Game Trad 220m Classic
Led an extended P2 and P4. Nice varied pitches, not a bad route to finish our trip on

 
5.10d The Invisible staircase Sport 20m, 7 Average
It was ok for a black slab, hard at second bolt and sting in tail. A bit more traffic needed to keep the moss away.

 
Sat 26th Aug 2017 - Squamish
The Malamute Grub Street
5.10b Sod Buster Mixed trad 25m, 3 Very Good
Did this and finished up a 5.9 on Stooges I had done before. My shoes have got stickier, or the angle has gone down, these slabs feel easy now, when I used to be terrified.

 
5.9 Old Style Trad 30m Good
There are so many right facing dihedral a in Squamish. This is another

 
5.10a Cider crack Trad 25m Good
I actually belayed half way after linking with lower pitch, but rope drag became excessive...... Another excellent crack

 
5.10c Cling Peaches Trad 30m Very Good
Not too bad for grade, nice tips climbing, starts under Stooges slab, 2 ledges down

 
5.11a Grub Street Direct Trad 30m Very Good
Did it while waiting for Grub Street to clear of traffic, starts below stooges slab, 2 ledges down

 
Fri 25th Aug 2017 - Squamish
The Chief The Grand Wall Base Grand Wall Base Central
5.10b Apron Strings Trad 45m Classic
Dave led P1, I led P2 as start of Great Wall. Great opener.

 
Fri 25th Aug 2017 - Squamish
The Chief The Grand Wall Base Flake Ledge
5.8 Merci Me Sport 70m, 7 Very Good
Dave led this as a 68 m rope stretcher as part of our Grand wall

 
Fri 25th Aug 2017 - Squamish
The Chief The Grand Wall
5.11a The Grand Wall Trad 300m Classic
Clean- apart from the aid sections and a pull on the bolt on Perry's traverse whose "reachy move" is indeed out of reach. Our 5 am wake up saw us first on route ( at 630) but were soon pursued by 2 teams

 
5.10b Split Pillar Trad 45m Classic
I can jamb!

 
5.11a The Sword Trad 25m Very Good
One stuck nut needed 2 hands to hammer it out, fixed rope up the aid section, very strenuous

 
5.11a Perry's Lieback Sport 25m Good
Had a rest as arms still flamed from hauling up the Sword aid section quickly then straight into this to prevent a traffic jam

 
5.10c The Flats to Bellygood Unknown 50m Good
Ok, you wouldn't want to come off the 10a pitch. The last pitch at 10 c was much better, which I led

 
Thu 24th Aug 2017 - Squamish
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane
5.9 Witch Doctor's Apprentice Trad 25m Good
One quite hard move through roof, though arm span may have something to do with it

 
5.11a Power Windows Trad 20m Good
I was to busy whimpering on slab traverse and run out arête with wind buffeting me to fall off

 
Thu 24th Aug 2017 - Squamish
The Chief The Apron South Gully
5.10a Rock On Trad 140m Classic
Led1,2,4, rapped down. Great climb

 
Mon 21st Aug 2017 - Yak Peak
5.10a Yak-Check Trad 650m Classic
Did the climb in 4 hrs 15 min, simul climbing until pitch 8, then doing the rest in 4 pitches, and soloing off. Still a 7 hr + day with approach and 900m descent on ball bearings. Fun outing

 
Sun 20th Aug 2017 - Cirque of the Unclimbables
Huey Spires East Huey Spire
21 Riders on the Storm
1 18 lead by Dave
2 18 lead by Me
3 21 lead by Dave
4
5
6
7
8
Trad 150m Classic
First 3 pitches only at 11a. The offwidth is even good

 
Sun 20th Aug 2017 - Lake Louise
The Amphitheatre
5.9 Imaginary Face Sport 25m, 9 Very Good
Nice and varied with some long moves

 
Sun 20th Aug 2017 - Lake Louise
Outhouse Area
5.9 Exquisite Corpse Trad 20m Good
Quite nice finger crack, but getting very cold

 
Sun 20th Aug 2017 - Lake Louise
Air Voyage Wall
5.11c DEW Line Sport 25m Classic
Reachy crux, came off first go, sorted dodgy feet as can't reach from decent ledge, lowered to lay down rest and did from there. We had a shuttle to catch

 
5.9 Extra Dry Trad Good
Nice hand jams.

 
Sun 20th Aug 2017 - Lake Louise
Goblin Wall
5.10d The Goblin Trad 100m Very Good
I was a bit underwhelmed by this supposed classic, and argue point perp has way better arêtes. Scary looking bolts , dirty rock, but great outlook. I started up the 11 b pitch before traversing to arête, so we probably made it a bit harder for ourselves

 
Fri 18th Aug 2017 - Jasper National Park
Ashlar Ridge
5.11a Good Intention Bad Habits Sport 340m Very Good
The top pitch was definitely the best quality rock, good crux moves on 11a pitch, some slightly suboptimal rock quality in many spots, unfortunately the views obscured by smoke. Took us ages to get to start, picked a better descent line away from cliffs and trees. Massive bolting effort. Thanks to FA.

 
Thu 17th Aug 2017 - Jasper National Park
Rock Gardens Lower Garden
5.10c Twisted Kites Sport 25m Average
I wasn't having a fun time back on limestone

 
5.8 Climb for Carolyn Sport 25m Good
Long and not strenuous

 
5.11a Climbing for Punishment Sport 14m Average
Good moves, pretty average rock. Misread the wandery crux, Dave had to show me the way

 
Wed 16th Aug 2017 - Cirque of the Unclimbables
Fairy meadows boulders and crags West bivy rock environs
5.10c Chimney block 2 Sport 15m, 3 Average
Harder start, then easy

 
5.9 Chimney block 3 Sport 15m, 4 Average
Easier and more bolts, a bit dirty. Single bolt at top

 
5.10d Chimney block 4 Sport 15m, 4 Good
Took a couple of goes for the v- whatever start. It was the day after our first attempt at LFT and fingers and toes hurt

 
5.10b Chimney block 1 Sport 15m, 3 Average
Too run out for me

 
5.12b Penguin neck Sport 10m, 6 Classic
Got more injured on this than anything else. Had 2 shots, down to one problematic move, but shattered my tips. Still got the beak photo though

 
Wed 16th Aug 2017 - Cirque of the Unclimbables
Fairy meadows boulders and crags East bivy rock environs
5.10a Toilet block top rope Top rope 14m Good
Easy to set up, and more fun blobby holds

 
5.11d Toilet roof crack 1 Trad 10m Good
If it hadn't been our last morning and I wasn't exhausted this may have happened. Nearly there on my second attempt. Jamming gloves rule.

 
5.10b Toilet block face Mixed trad 15m, 3 Good
A bit dirty, but fun route on big potato holds- after getting rained off LFT second go

 
Tue 15th Aug 2017 - Cirque of the Unclimbables
Terrace Tower
5.11+ 5.11+ IV Brent's Hammer Trad 200m Classic
Dave did all the hard work with pitches 1,3,5. Good quality climbing and nice not to hurry. We skipped pitch 6.

 
Tue 15th Aug 2017 - Cirque of the Unclimbables
Lotus Flower Tower
5.10+ The Great Line SE Face - with David Gray Trad 850m Mega Classic
Third time lucky. First go was after 9 days rain and it was very wet. We got to top of pitch 12 before bailing at 9 pm after starting late due to guys in front, at 7 am. Second go retreated pitch 6 due to bad weather. Third go went smoothly, summit in 12 1/2 hours at 6 pm and back to camp before the sun set. Amazing route, lives up to the hype

 
Fri 11th Aug 2017 - Cirque of the Unclimbables
Fairy meadows boulders and crags West bivy rock environs
5.5 Triangular bloc left Boulder 15m Average
Waiting for dave to bring back insect repellant. Gotta keep moving

 
5.8 Triangular bloc right Sport 10m, 3 Average
Warming up for the penguin

 
Fri 11th Aug 2017 - Cirque of the Unclimbables
Huey Spires East Huey Spire
5.10c The Messenger Trad 25m Good
A bit dirty, probably easier than 10c

 
5.11c Dark Crystal Trad 25m Good
The seam needs a good clean out of moss before trying to lead this, but nice climbing up pebbles

 
5.10d Inner Limits Mixed trad 30m, 3 Classic
Despite its wide nature, this crack/ chimney was very fun, with many climbing tricks needed.

 
5.9 Rain Dance Trad 20m Average
Pretty easy except for one desperate reachy move for me with gear at feet

 
Tue 25th Jul 2017 - Jasper National Park
Lost Boys Main Wall
5.9 Grab a Seat Trad 18m Good
Just to first anchors as a warm up

 
5.11c Dog Day Afternoon Sport 17m Very Good
Crimpy through roof

 
Tue 25th Jul 2017 - Jasper National Park
Lost Boys Wasted Youth Wall
5.11c Wasted Youth Sport 16m Good
Not very hard, but put off by 10 kg of rock shifting with my toe hook, beware large plate. Under roof, it is going to go

 
5.10c Iggy Pop & The Three Stooges Sport 16m Very Good
Fun and good rock

 
5.12a Peer Pressure Sport 16m Good
In the end ignored the chalk to left and crimped like mad across bolt

 
Sun 23rd Jul 2017 - Jasper National Park
Rock Gardens The Corner
5.10d Lost Arrow Direct Sport 19m Good
Steep, chalk everywhere, some on crap holds

 
Sun 23rd Jul 2017 - Jasper National Park
Lost Boys Main Wall
5.11b Into the Blue Sport 20m Good
Roof at mid height is desperate. Second go.

 
5.11c Number One Sport 20m Very Good
Upper roof is nails.

 
5.11b Altered Beast Sport 18m Good
Pretty juggy and not that hard

 
5.10b Super Brant Man Sport 17m Good
Nice warm up

 
Sat 22nd Jul 2017 - Jasper National Park
Rock Gardens Guidekiller Sector
5.11b Band-Aid Box Sport 21m Very Good
Tried to do the start without using the big stemming box, a mistake

 
5.11a All Chalk No Action Sport 19m Good
Hard first 5 metres, then sharp crimps

 
Sat 22nd Jul 2017 - Jasper National Park
Rock Gardens Puff Puff Wall
5.10a Puff Puff Sport 20m Average
Polished and wanders, overhyped

 
5.10a High Boltage Sport 19m Good
Juggy fun

 
Sat 22nd Jul 2017 - Lake Louise
Duckland
5.11a Howard the Duck Sport 18m, 5 Good
Nice thuggy fun

 
5.11d Wild Frontiers Sport 23m Very Good
Technical crimping, second shot

 
Sat 22nd Jul 2017 - Lake Louise
Blob Rock
5.10a The Black Knight Sport 21m, 8 Good
Felt slippery at 9 deg, I am acclimatised to 36 at the moment.

 
5.10c Crowded House Sport 19m, 9 Good
Messed up start. Pretty hard if short

 
5.10d Latest Squeeze Sport 20m, 7 Good
Nice top section

 
Thu 20th Jul 2017 - Kananaskis Country
Kananaskis Lakes Mt Indefatigable
5.7 Joy - with David Gray Trad 610m Classic
Alt 70 m pitches with Dave. He stayed in his approach shoes the whole way. Not sure where 5.7 is, the descent was more challenging. Great views and fun feature. Booty cam and wire. Nice to get out of the smoke in the Bow valley.

 
Wed 19th Jul 2017 - Canmore
EEOR
5.9 5.8 Eeyore's Tail Trad 360m Average
Did in 6 long pitches with 70 m rope. May have scored higher if we hadn't been climbing in dense smoke and ash from the BC fires and could see the view, and breathe! Rock quality improved in upper half. Walked down, left hostel 2 pm ,back at 10pm

 
Tue 18th Jul 2017 - Canmore
Cougar Canyon House of Cards
5.11b Is That Your Dog? Sport 25m Average
A bit more run out and rock quality a bit iffy. Exciting crux

 
5.10c 5.11a Ashtaroth. Sport 25m Very Good
Done as one 45 m pitch with P 2

 
5.11a Ashtarotha P2 Sport 18m Very Good
Nice roof moves

 
5.10c Talamasca Sport 43m, 18
P1 10 b, P2 10 c, did as one long route, 18 draws

 
5.11b Heliopolis Sport 30m Good
Another nice long route

 
Sun 16th Jul 2017 - Canmore
EEOR
5.10c 5.10a - c True Grit (True Grit variant) Sport 170m Very Good
Led P1,3,5. It may be the change of rock to limestone, but this felt quite sustained. 3 hours up, 30 min down and a stiff hike from the road

 
Sat 15th Jul 2017 - Valley of the Ten Peaks
The Grand Sentinel
5.10d Cardiac Arete Sport 110m, 12 Mega Classic
Amazing setting, Canada's answer to the Moai. Beautiful overhung juggy arête

 
5.9 South Face (The Grand Sentinel) Trad 90m Very Good
Loved the hanging chimney on pitch 3. Rock quality a bit crap in spots, but fun trad route with a nice 2.5 hr walk in

 
Thu 13th Jul 2017 - Blanket Creek Buttress
5.10c Blanket Arête Sport 50m Average
Strange bolting, average rock, non sustained

 
5.11b The Darkside Sport 30m, 12 Very Good
Well bolted, sustained and great varied moves

 
5.10d Blanket arête 10 d variant Sport 25m Average
About 5 m of good climbing

 
5.11b Dark Matters Sport 32m Good
Definitely a taller persons route. Some desperate lunges from me, and significantly more run out than Darkside

 
Thu 13th Jul 2017 - Begbie Bluffs
Rabbit Wall
5.10b Good guys wear black Sport 25m, 7 Good
Rock quite arapiles lik at top

 
5.10a 5.9 Fields of clover (Route right of JB) Sport 25m Good
Steep start for grade

 
5.11d Force of one Sport 25m, 7 Good
Placed a few cams on first lap to fill in the gaps. Hard fingery start

 
5.10c Jack the rabbit Sport 25m Good
Interesting start, quite pumpy. Then eases off

 
5.11a 5.11b Myxomatosis (Route through roof left of Octagon) Sport 25m, 8 Average
I think we were sandbagged by a local. Felt like my shoulder was about to pop

 
Mon 10th Jul 2017 - West Kootenays
Valhalla Provincial Park Mt Gimli
5.10d Lusting After Women - with David Gray Trad 300m Very Good
Rock a lot grittier due to relative lack of traffic, but great line. We rappelled after P 4 as couldn't be arsed to walk down east ridge again.

 
Sat 8th Jul 2017 - West Kootenays
Woodbury
5.11d Salsa Dance Sport 30m, 9 Very Good
Offered to clean it for Dave. Very technical, quite unique moves

 
5.11c The Last Waltz Sport 30m, 7 Good
The bail Biner is at the roof for a reason. Couldn't hold the side pull in the 36 degree heat and happily used it

 
5.10c Lichengitis Sport 15m, 6 Good
Interesting moves up the nose if you are too short to bridge

 
5.10c Let It Bleed Sport 15m Very Good
Really funky incut holds and sidepulls

 
5.10c Lovely lady Liss Sport 20m, 7 Average
Easier to clean, and ledge fall potential real. Hard start, but had to do it for photo opportunity

 
5.10d Upside-down Sport 15m Good
The guide topo doesn't seem correct.also The grades on this and LLL could be swapped

 
Fri 7th Jul 2017 - West Kootenays
Slocan Valley Slocan Bluffs Roadside
5.11a Salamander Sport 20m, 6 Very Good
Trick slabby stemming thing, I think height dependent

 
5.8 The Big Easy Sport 30m, 10 Good
Very incut, would be 5.4 at Squamish

 
5.9 Booms 'n Busts Sport 29m, 9 Good
Recent cleaning work has left a lot of dirt, we tried to brush more

 
5.10b Funky earth mother chick Sport 32m Good
Good moves up high

 
5.11a Don't Pull Too Hard Baby Sport 32m Very Good
After a scrappy start this route is gold

 
5.10c Forever Young Trad 33m Good
The sun was coming, needs more traffic

 
5.10b Under the Big Top Trad 25m Good
Corner was quite slippery, but was getting over 30 degrees by then

 
Fri 7th Jul 2017 - West Kootenays
Valhalla Provincial Park Mt Gimli
5.10a South Ridge - with David Gray Trad 350m Mega Classic
Led from lunch ledge onwards. Heavy snow season, so although it was painful seconding with 2 sets of crampons, boots and ice axes for the first 4 pitches,very happy to have them on descent. The rock was dry, the weather great, the route spectacular and the camping below the ridge in a stunning location

 
Tue 4th Jul 2017 - The Boulderfields
Dark side wall
5.10d Deception Sport 15m, 6 Good
Didn't manage this as elegantly as Dave

 
5.11c Evil intentions Sport 17m, 6 Very Good
Intermediates a little mossy, cleaned them up, nice climb

 
5.11d Armed robbery Sport 22m Very Good
Roof move quite tough. Deserves more traffic, a really nice route, great rock

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 279 ascents.

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