Routes in Calabogie Boulders

Find your way up on the razor blade crimps among all the crumbling mica on this technical slab.

Sit start, pinch the right arete. Work your way though up the overhanging face on thin crimps and the arete. Try not to bleed all over the problem.

Sit start on low on good sidepulls on the face and the left arete.

Sit start on vertical seem and arete. Follow horizontal crack up.

Sit start on good sidepull and left arete crimp. Bump and balance your way up.

SDS matched in wide shelf in the overhang. Moove up the shallow corner and topout.

Small boulder just past Gatekeeper and before frigid cave. Sit start on the right side of the steep overhang and move up and left to top out.

SDS matched on first big shelf, moove up.

SDS at the base of the boulder with right hand on the arete and left on a good sidepull. Follow the arete all the way up.

https://youtu.be/_1wrTLcZFC8?t=181

Sit start as for November, but move directly up and right to a sharp crimp then straight up to the juggy lip. Top out straight up on the slab using small crimps.

Sit start on the flakey jugs near the center of the boulder. Move up and left to top out using the big sidepull.

Start as 'November' but continue left once you reach the sloping lip. Keep going left to top out around the side of the boulder. The crack is out.

Similar to 'The High Road' but follow the lower sloping rail instead of the lip.

Start around the corner on the ok edge and the good sloper. Move right into Gateway Arete.

Sit start from the two sloping crimps under the arete. Climb up the arete.

Stiff for the grade, start low and follow crimps and rails to top.

See the beta here: https://youtu.be/1Hn-1I4SOoA

Start on the big ledge and dyno/deadpoint to the top of the boulder. One-move wonder.

Grade greatly varies on where you start, how you climb it and your height.

Start as per Mantling 201, but traverse the ledge and up through The Gate to top out

Start on the lowest of the sloping holds on the left side of the face. Climb up and exit on the left.

Start the same 'The Bullfighter's Friend' but continue up and to the right to finish as 'The Conquistador of Rad'.

Start on 'The Bullfighter's Friend'. Mid way traverse low to make a big move using a crimp and reach to finish on 'The Conquistador of Rad'. Height dependent.

Climb up the middle of the overhanging face.

Climb the arête on the right side of the overhanging face.

Climb the slab between the stump and the tree.

Climb the well featured slab between the tree and the arête.

Sit start from the obvious crimp at the base of the arête. Climb up the arête.

A lower start to 'Twisted by Design' using the undercling under the roof.

Start as 'The Theorem' and move up and into 'Feature Press'.

Psyched! AKA Yves's project on the nine-tenths boulder. Finally sent this masterpiece! One of my favourite climbs to date! Been working this one on and off for the past few years. Starts with a left hand undercling and right hand low on the arrete. Very hard compression boulder problem on a beautiful arrete. (Yves's description from 8a.nu account)

*Some recent repeats (Samuel T., JF Reid) suggest a downgrade with a grade closer to 11/12.

https://youtu.be/Pd9OQkDX9Yc

Grade has been fluctuating a lot, but word on the street is that with the improved beta (foot jam) it's around V7/V8, depending on reach. Without the foot jam the grade is more around V8/V9. Either way, enjoy this sick problem!

Start matched on big rail and traverse right and up.

See beta here: https://youtu.be/gXy_GLCOpU0

Move into 'Beautiful Odyssey' from a much lower start. Begins on a ledge to the bottom right.

Starting on a jug with good heels, move to 2 tiny crimps behind you, then transition into Rescue and topout.

Starting on a juggy rail with large feet, either dyno to the top of the boulder or use the intermediate crimps on the right side, then bump to the top.

Starts on the sloping edge in the middle of the face and go straight up.

Start on the triangle ledge shared with 'Yellow Fever' and traverse along the lip to join 'Malaria' with at top out at the prow.

Start on the edge slightly lower than 'Yellow Fever' using the same exit.

Begin on the triangle edge, top out directly above.

Traverse along the roof starting on the sloping rail in the bottom right of the cave and link-up with 'Yellow Fever'.

Starts with one hand in the jug on the right side of the cave and one hand on the starting hold for 'West Nile'. Move up to the lip and top out at the prow.

Started lower left of 'Malaria' matched on a big juggy sidepull.

Start on the left side of the face, on two opposing sidepulls. Climb up the face to the jugs above the corner

Climb up the center of the face.

Sit start for November Sunshine

Needs topo and description. See guidebook.

Needs topo and description. See guidebook.

Needs topo and description. See guidebook.

Climb up the right-center of the slab