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Routes in East Sooke Park

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Showing all 28 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Tobasco Rock
5.7 Wiggin Nark

Farthest (Climbers) Left anchors, tricky start, walk off.

FA: T Painter & J Peterman

Trad 8m
5.7 Mungle Crack

Big crack to the right of Wiggin Nark, 2nd set of anchors from climbers left

FA: T Painter & J Peterman

Trad 8m
5.8 Dr. Sketch

Slightly right of Mungle Crack, thin crack and small shelves for your feet. 3rd set of anchors from climbers left

FA: T Painter & J Peterman

Trad 8m
5.8 Pinky and the Brain

Farthest climb on the right, follow the big crack right to a ledge, then head left towards the anchor.

FA: T Painter & J Peterman

Trad 8m
Beechey Head
5.7 Cephalus

Located around 100 meters to the left of Whale Power

Trad
5.12a Whale Power

is a sport route (can be done as a mixed/trad route)

FA: Kris Holm, 1993

Sport 5
5.11c Altitudinosity Trad
5.9 Abbey Road Trad
5.8 WhaleBack

a couple meters to the right of Abbey Road

Sport
5.10a Head Trip

when approaching the crag, instead of taking the right trail take the left trail to the base of this climb

Trad
Mirkwood Forest
5.10c Ciderman

Climb past one bolt, and into the crack system above the overhang.

FA: Mark Phillips, 1993

Mixed trad 1
5.10a White Hot Matter

a small amount of face climbing leads to a superb right-leaning finger crack that will eat your passive gear!

FA: Mark Phillips, 1993

Trad 12m
5.10b Forgetful Chris

Stiff moves on some small hold’s off the deck lead to easier climbing above, bring your stick clip! Forgetful Chirs joins The Happy Foot Doctor at its 3’d bolt.

FA: Mark Phillips, 1993

Sport 12m, 4
5.10c The Happy foot doctor

Start on the right side of the tree and crack through crimps and slopers up to the horizontal seam, then break out left on trad gear to the crack that forms the upper bit of White Hot Matter.

FA: Mark Phillips, 1993

Sport 15m, 5
5.10c The Happy Foot Doctor Direct

When you hit the horizontal seam on The Happy Foot Doctor, continue straight up following the line of bolts. some balancey moves lead's to a large belay ledge.

FA: Crazy_Pete & Kelsie Wamer, 2020

Sport 12m
5.9 Noah's Ark

start in the V below the small roof and climb the corner, when you reach the roof you have 3 options. break out left with little pro until you pull the edge of the roof. Head straight through the middle of the roof and into the thin crack above. Pull through the right side of the roof and enter the great crack system above.

all options feel very similar and go at the same grade.

FA: Mark Phillips, 1993

Trad 12m
5.10d Resurrection

Highball up the stiff slab and crimps to the diagonal seam, place as much pro as you feel will keep to safe, then launch up more slopers and crimpers to the top. there are no bolted anchors, except for a tree way back from the edge of the crag. If anyone wants to Retro bolt this one, go for it

FA: Crazy_Pete, 2020

Trad 13m
5.9 Mr Bongles Ark

Climb The Delightful Mr. Bongles up to the diagonal seam then break out across it, finishing on Noah's Ark

FA: Crazy_Pete, 2020

Mixed trad 15m, 2
5.9 The Delightful Mr Bongles

Climb up the dihedral and follow the bolt line to the right. In 2020 a couple large flakes were removed lower down on the route changing the nature a bit.

Sport 15m
The Coliseum
5.9 A Lust For Life Trad
5.11b Gladheateher Trad
5.11d M n M Sport
5.12b Outrageous

First route to the left of the chimney. A fantastic route that has it all. Jugs, crimps, side pulls, and dynamic moves.

Sport 20m, 6
5.10b The Great Vise

Climb the obvious black chimney. Bouldery start leads to enjoyable, full-body climbing above. Fairly good pro protects you as you stem to chains.

Trad
5.13b Highway Robbery Sport
5.13b/c Sidelined

This line runs between Highway Robbery and Desperados. Climbs up four bolts to where it then links into the last bolt of the 13b Highway Robbery and finishes on shared anchor. Short and sweet power endurance crimp line. The hard moves are over when you arrive at the 4th bolt but don't blow clipping it!

FA: Marcel Aarden, 9 Jul 2018

Sport 12m, 4
5.12d Desperados Sport
5.12b Pulp Friction

Furthest route to the right. Powerful through the middle, run out at up high, but the climbing is easy.

Sport 5

Showing all 28 routes.

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