Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sun 8th Nov 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.11d | ★★ Your Wife (Direct) | 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
So got the direct start to this today after having sent the original. Made it past the direct part past bolt 2. Fell at the same place as Friday on the crimps before the ledge thing. Continued on to the finish to clean the draws at the end of the day. To project soon! .
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5.11b | ★★ Your Wife | 9m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
True red point today with only the first draw pre-clipped and setting the draws on the rest to the top while having worked out the beta Friday. Went first try today. Whoa!
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5.10c | ★★★ Sausages | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Did this as a warmup with only draw one pre clipped and then toproped it to clean it. Wired the beta even more.
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Sat 7th Nov 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.12c 5.12c/d | ★★★ Anti-Gravity | 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 7th Nov 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Eastern Block | |||||||
5.10c | ★ Death by Maboola - with Andy Gnarr | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First lead attempt. I haven't climbed this in a few months and forgot to check the beta book before I pulled on so I missed a hold near bolt 3 and took a real good whip. Sent it after and provided I know where the holds are this should go.
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5.6 | ★ (unknown 3) - with Andy Gnarr | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 6th Nov 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ Your Wife | 9m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Well, tried this on lead today over and over and over and over and...
Could do in two takes at the peak of the day and burned out trying to project it from the ground up. Now know the moves and excited to come back for more. Amazing views today and great temperature and company. And so stoked to have had some beta from friends around the crag for this. It was also super fun to watch folks on El Ninjo and Anti Gravity during the day as well. |
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5.11a | ★★ Pieta di Roma | 11m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Finally got this linked together on the second lead burn after hanging the draws on the first burn today. Felt really good. Then repeated it with the draws up and knowing about some key holds missed on the first clean red point burn. Love the three boulder problems on a sport lead and the funky features.
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5.10c | ★★★ Sausages | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pre clipped from bolt 2 at this point for a fun warm up. Really glad my friend sent it. Awesome!
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5.12c 5.12c/d | ★★★ Anti-Gravity | 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
6 essaies
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Thu 29th Oct 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Eastern Block | |||||||
5.9 | ★ (unknown 2) - with Aislinn M. | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Surprisingly every hold on the wet section of the face was dry!
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5.8 | ★★ Mr Clean - with Aislinn M. | 16m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.11b | ★★ Temptation - with Aislinn M. | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Suspicions confirmed: this is a similar difficulty to "Death by Maboola". I'll be back... Probably next year.
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Sun 25th Oct 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ Your Wife | 9m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.11a | ★★ Pieta di Roma | 11m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.10c | ★★★ Sausages | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Mon 19th Oct 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.10d 5.10d/11a | ★★ Price of Business | 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Went up this to clean it today and fell after bolt 2. And then clipped draws and rested each time. Much tired! And also figured out a new sequence going right instead of left for part of it. Fun!
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5.12b | ★★ Hot Enough For Ya | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Worked on this on lead today, super fun. Got to the second bolt the first time. Then managed to get to the rail and clip the pre hung long draw. Worked on the dyno(?) a bunch. Later pulled past the dyno move on the dog bone of the QuickDraw to do the top bit. Worked on some of the moves up top to resolve them.
On a subsequent lead try could get to bolt 3 long draw clipped and try the dyno. Pull past the dyno on the QuickDraw, clip it from that hold and continue on to the anchors. Will likely be a “one move wonder” to project for a while. Super fun!!! |
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5.11a | ★★ Pieta di Roma | 11m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Working on getting this top to bottom. Worked on the three mini cruces today. Worked out the moves. So stoked!
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Sun 18th Oct 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ El Ninjo | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Second try
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5.10c | ★★★ Sausages | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Now used to warm up on and then to hang quickdraws on “Hot Enough For Ya”! How helpful!
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Sun 18th Oct 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Eastern Block | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Ethics Police | 16m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Labelling this one as “pink point” because the first Very high bolt was pre-clipped. Additionally, slipped off the first move before re starting and leading it clean. Fun route! Might try to lead on gear some day...
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5.8 | ★★ Mr Clean | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really enjoyed this one! Did it again after because it was fun!
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5.9 | ★ (unknown 2) | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tricky slab climbing, really enjoyed this lead!
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Sat 17th Oct 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Eastern Block | |||||||
5.9 | ★ (unknown 2) | 16m, 5 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Mr Clean | 16m, 5 | |||||
5.8 | ★ Ethics Police | 16m, 4 | |||||
Sat 17th Oct 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Sausages | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Now a chiller warmup
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5.12a | ★★★ El Ninjo | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sent this After having done a burn to hang the draws and figure out the moves. So stoked!!!
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Tue 13th Oct 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ True Grit | 11m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 12th Oct 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Sausages | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Lead it hanging all the draws myself, super fun and now a favorite warmup!
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5.12a | ★★★ El Ninjo | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First two lead attempts of this went well! Had trouble clipping the fourth bolt, as well as the part to the top. Figured out some beta and I’m so stoked to get back to this!!!
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Mon 12th Oct 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Eastern Block | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Mr Clean | 16m, 5 | |||||
5.9 | ★ (unknown 2) | 16m, 5 | |||||
Sat 10th Oct 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ El Ninjo | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Worked on the moves on toprope again today, love working this. Very pumpy and quite fun!
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5.12a | ★★ True Grit | 11m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Projected this on lead today, got to bolt three and fell before clipping bolt fou. Managed to clip bolt four and work on the crux section a little. Excited to try this again!
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5.10c | ★★★ Sausages | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Lead it today with only the first bolt stick clipped and without a long draw so I think it totally counts now .
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Fri 9th Oct 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ Your Wife | 9m, 4 | |||||
Worked on the moves twice going up on toprope. Excited to have gotten the crux move at the beginning and still working on linking the pieces, even on toprope. Will make for an amazing lead!
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5.11a | ★★ Pieta di Roma | 11m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Enjoyed trying to lead this at first and then getting too scared and toproping it to figure out the moves. Three boulder problems with a pumpy finish. Super fun and very aesthetic. One to come back for!
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5.10c | ★★★ Sausages | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Finally lead this one clean after having struggled with it on lead last time as well as being really pumped out when trying it on toprope. Had the second bolt stick clipped as well as a long draw before the runout. Take from that what you will... great experience, super fun moves. Happy to have ticked this one off!
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Thu 8th Oct 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.10d 5.10d/11a | ★★ Price of Business | 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Stoked to have completed this one clean! Took over five tries to get it right. Worth it, great experience and amazing sport climbing practice. The rock here is so beautiful! Projected it a bunch this evening on lead, and tried to lead it before on September 20 2020 and fell and kept going to the top to warm up to toprope other stuff. Yay!
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5.10c | ★★★ Sausages | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thu 8th Oct 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Eastern Block | |||||||
5.9 | ★ (unkown) | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Mr Clean | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 28th Sep 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ El Ninjo | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 26th Sep 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
V10 | ★★★ The Slide - with Louis's crew | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Thu 24th Sep 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Sausages | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 23rd Sep 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.12b | ★★ Hot Enough For Ya | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.12b | ★★ Hot Enough For Ya | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 19th Sep 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ El Ninjo | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 13th Sep 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Pieta di Roma | 11m, 3 | |||||
5.10c | ★★★ Sausages | 12m, 5 | |||||
Fri 4th Sep 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Eastern Block | |||||||
5.6 | ★ (unknown 3) | 12m, 3 | |||||
5.10a | ★★ Coda | 13m, 4 | |||||
5.10c | ★ The Slide | 13m, 4 | |||||
5.10c | ★ Death by Maboola | 14m, 4 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Mr Clean | 16m, 5 | |||||
5.9 | ★ (unknown 2) | 16m, 5 | |||||
5.9 | ★ (unkown) | 14m, 4 | |||||
Sun 23rd Aug 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Eastern Block | |||||||
5.6 | ★ (unknown 3) | 12m, 3 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Mr Clean | 16m, 5 | |||||
5.9 | ★ (unknown 2) | 16m, 5 | |||||
5.8 | ★ Ethics Police | 16m, 4 | |||||
Thu 20th Aug 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Eastern Block | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Mr Clean - with Ryan Parker, Aislinn M | 16m, 5 | |||||
5.10c | ★ Death by Maboola - with Victoria G. | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Made it up pretty quickly the first time so I went for another lap. Round 2 did not go as well. I think my fingers need more of a break if I'm going to give this multiple tries in a day.
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5.6 | ★ (unknown 3) - with Victoria G. | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Set up a TR for Vic
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5.8 | ★★ Mr Clean - with Victoria G. | 16m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.10c | ★ Death by Maboola - with Victoria G. | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I think I've got most of the beta down now. Now it's just practice.
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Sun 16th Aug 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Eastern Block | |||||||
5.9 | ★ (unknown 2) | 16m, 5 | |||||
Top felt much harder than 5.9
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Fri 14th Aug 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Sausages | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fri 14th Aug 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Eastern Block | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Mr Clean - with Aislinn M., Jacob B. | 16m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Was a little iffy between bolt 1-2 but then cruised the crux up top
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5.10a | ★★ Coda - with Aislinn M., Jacob B. | 13m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bad foot placement on the hand to foot match so I couldn't move and had to sit back, then blinded by the sun higher up and again needed to sit to back to see the holds. Moves weren't hard though so I'm definitely getting stronger.
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Wed 12th Aug 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ El Ninjo | 12m, 4 | |||||
5.11a | ★★ Pieta di Roma | 11m, 3 | |||||
5.10c | ★★★ Sausages | 12m, 5 | |||||
5.11b | ★★ Your Wife | 9m, 4 | |||||
Fri 7th Aug 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Eastern Block | |||||||
5.9 | ★ (unknown 2) - with D Lit | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The moves are way more obvious than Mr Clean
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5.8 | ★★ Mr Clean - with D Lit | 16m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Standard warmup
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5.10c | ★ Death by Maboola - with D Lit | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
This was hard. Ripped a nice little hole in my middle finder halfway up so just had to stem the bleeding with chalk and keep going.
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Fri 7th Aug 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Sausages - with D Lit. | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Dave couldn't send it so I climbed up the first 4 bolts on TR then led the last bit. Last climb of the day was maybe not the smartest.
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Mon 27th Jul 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Eastern Block | |||||||
5.9 | ★ (unknown 2) | 16m, 5 | |||||
5.6 | ★ (unknown 3) | 12m, 3 | |||||
5.8 | ★ Ethics Police | 16m, 4 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Mr Clean | 16m, 5 | |||||
5.10a | ★★ Coda | 13m, 4 | |||||
5.9 | ★ (unkown) | 14m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 20th Jul 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Sausages | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.11b | ★★ Your Wife | 9m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 12th Jul 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ El Ninjo | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tue 23rd Jun 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.11d | ★★ Your Wife (Direct) | 4 | |||||
Fri 19th Jun 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ Your Wife | 9m, 4 | |||||
5.11a | ★★ Pieta di Roma | 11m, 3 | |||||
5.11b | ★ Catwoman | 9m, 4 | |||||
Thu 18th Jun 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ El Ninjo | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10c | ★★★ Sausages | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 14th Jun 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Eastern Block | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Ethics Police | 16m, 4 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Mr Clean | 16m, 5 | |||||
Sun 14th Jun 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Sausages | 12m, 5 | |||||
Finally sent on lead!!
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Sun 14th Jun 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Eastern Block | |||||||
5.9 | ★ (unkown) | 14m, 4 | |||||
Fri 12th Jun 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ Your Wife | 9m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2ème essai
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