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Main Cliff Rock climbing 18 routes in area

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 38
18
YDS
5.45.65.75.85.95.10a5.10c5.11a5.11c

Seasonality

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Summary

Fractured and smooth granite crag

Description

This is an urban crag, complete with graffiti and lots of junk that the local punks like to throw off the top. there are some entertaining climbs here, but only for a quick climb after work rather than being a destination.

Access issues inherited from Nova Scotia

Climb Nova Scotia coordinates access, etc.

Approach

Park on the dead end street off of Snowy Owl Drive. The trail takes you directly to the top of the main cliff.

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Routes

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1
5.6 ★ Nursery Slab Trad 9m

There are a number of possible ways up this slab from 5.0 to 5.6. It can be wet. It doesn't seem to be often climbed.

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2
5.7 ★★ Boomin' System Sport 10m, 3

Climb dihedral then out on face to Left up to ledge. From ledge stick to the left of the face.

3
5.9 The Overhang Trad 9m
4
5.11 ★ No Man's Land Sport 9m
5
5.9 ★ Kestrel Trad 9m
6
5.10a ★★ Guillotine Sport 8m
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7
5.6 ★ Gully Wall Sport 9m, 4

Climb the slab to the left of the gully. You can either climb on the left or the right. There is one bolt directly off of the trail for protection to set up a top anchor. Two top rope bolts and 4 sport bolts on the face.

Maint:

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8
5.5 G Sea Gully Trad 15m
9
5.7 ★ Black Streak Top rope 15m
10
5.11c ★ Evening Wall Direct Sport 9m
11
5.9 ★★★ Evening Wall Trad 10m
12
5.4 R Tony's Corner Trad 10m
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13
5.7 G ★★ The Cave Trad 10m
14
5.7 G Crack in the Ceiling Trad 13m
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15
5.7 G ★ Big Mac Trad 10m
16
5.7 ★★ Big Mac Sport Sport 10m, 4

Located at the right end of the cliff, by the scree slope.

17
5.9 ★ Hamburglar Sport 10m, 4

Start on the ledge to the right of Big Mac Sport. Follow the bolts up the shallow dihedral to the ledge and finish on Big Mac Sport.

FA: Alec Soucy, 23 Oct 2017

18
5.9 Wanton Destruction Trad 4m

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5.9 ★★★ Evening Wall

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Sat 29 Apr
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