Routes in Icefields Parkway

"Mount Hector's main route requires a ski mountaineering ascent. It moves through a lot of complex avalanche terrain, across glaciers, and through many terrain traps. Most people will do this route in spring, aiming to be off the mountain before noon. This route should be attempted only by very fit parties with experience in glacier travel. It is a route that requires constant movement. This route can and has been snowshoed, but this is more often over the course of two days because it's tough for snowshoes to move at a pace necessary to avoid avalanche terrain".

14km car to car - (3,412.00 m summit) - 1635m in elevation gain. Generally, a 7-hour car to car day.

awesome fully bolted sport route, 600m vert approach, 400m climb, 10-12 hours car to car

Starts with approximately 40 metres of low-angle approach ice or neve. Can be pitched out or not, but care should be taken where the ice may be thin and unsupportive - there can be a large volume of water running throughout the winter, and punching through would likely prove fatal. The final 55 metres generally forms up in three distinct lines. The left line (the so-called "Photographer's Gully") is the easiest, and goes at WI3. The centre and right lines should go at WI4. Be aware that topping out on the right-hand side of the falls may not provide much for a solid anchor.

The steep and thin line to the left of Murchison Falls. Joins up with Murchison Falls mid way through P3

From the FA description on Gravsports (credit to Aaron Beardmore):

Pitch 1. Climb the first pitch of Snivelling Gully to the chains.

Pitch 2. Climb the Gully for 20m and veer left to the chains of the descent.

Pitch 3. Climb the thin ice above the descent chains to the next bolted descent station under the big roof about 40m left of the final pitch of Sniveling Gully. WI 3 but bring stubbies. From this station look up and left (about 10m away) to the belay station for "It's a Cryin Shame Finish". Belay here for the final pitch.

Pitch 4. A rising traverse with a short crux between the first and second bolt and easing off considerably after that. 6 bolts in total. End up on the low angle smear and continue up to a ring bolt station below the trees directly above the pitch.