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Read's Tower All Alpine climbing 1 route in area

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 1
1
YDS
5.65.75.85.9

Seasonality

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Summary

The small sub-peak of Mount Sparrowhawk close to Canmore on the Spray Lakes road.

Access issues inherited from Kananaskis Country

A Kananaskis Conservation Pass is required for vehicles stopping in Kananaskis.

Approach

Use snowshoes or skis for the approach, especially in later season.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
WI3 M4 ★ North Gully / Corn-Cobb Couloir Alpine 200m, 4

The prominent gully in the centre of the north face. Approach by traversing across from the west saddle/col of the tower.

Climb the gully in 3-5 pitches. Difficulty and amount of ice varies with the amount of snow. Below is Brandon Pullan's description from the second ascent in Oct 2007:

P1: Climb 20m of WI2 until behind a large choc stone, a 5.4 move gains a snow ramp, climb up to belay behind ice pillar. 60m, WI2

P2: Up the small pillar and ramp of ice to an impassable choc stone. Climb wall on the right (10m, M4) and up snow ramp to a belay ledge on the left with good cracks for gear. 60m, M4, WI3

P3: Continue up steeper snow and into ice for 30m. Up a tricky section of thin ice to get to the higher snow ramp. Belay in good cave under cornice. 60m, WI3

P4: Negotiate cornice! 20m, M3?

FA: Kevin Barton & Ian Hunt

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Wed 31 May
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