Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.9 Hard | ★★ Little Lion Face | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
5.7 Hard | ★★ Randy Moss | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.7 Hard | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I am coming to appreciate Giggles more and more for how solid and sustained the climbing is at the grade.
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5.9 Hard | ★★ Time to Rock It | 22m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
If you can figure out the beta for the start, 5.9 is fair -- but it is a WEIRD start. If you don't figure out the beta, then it will feel MUCH harder. Also, might be height-dependent. We need to get a short climber to give it a try.
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5.7 | Stairway to Hell - right variant | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Could use some more cleaning, but if that is done, would be a fine route.
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5.8 ~5.9 | ★★ Diggy Diggy Hole | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Like many of the climbs at Lower Cliff, a bit stiff for the grade.
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5.9 | ★★ Little Lion Face - with David Gibbs, Bartski | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Slab o' Doom 2.0 - with David Gibbs, Bartski | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Upper section is a bit dirty
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5.7 | ★★ Randy Moss - with David Gibbs, Bartski | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The moss is Randy. Could use a bit of a scrub
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5.7 | ★ Giggles - with David Gibbs, Bartski | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Time to Rock It — 2 attempts - with David Gibbs, Bartski | 22m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Could not figure it out for the FFA, so Bart went for it and got it. After seeing him I was able to do it on top rope.
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5.7 | Stairway to Hell - right variant - with David Gibbs, Bartski | 25m | Average | ||||
Was still a bit dirty and gear not as good as hoped.
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5.8 | ★★ Diggy Diggy Hole - with David Gibbs, Bartski | 18m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.10d | ★★★ Arriving Somewhere (but not here) - with Bartski | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super happy I got this, and it's a great route that doesn't just have one hard move but a really fun sequence to puzzle out.
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5.10b | ★★ Metamorphic Delicacy - with Bartski | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Still a great route. Today I didn't mind the bolting.
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5.9 | ★★ Little Lion Face - with Bartski | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Slab o' Doom 2.0 - with Bartski | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Randy Moss - with David Gibbs | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
5.9 | ★ Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.7 | ★ Giggles - with Bartski | 20m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Diggy Diggy Hole - with Bartski | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Needs a serious cleaning. The route is quite fun though.
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5.9 Hard | ★★ Little Lion Face | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
5.7 Hard | ★★ Randy Moss | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.9 | ★ Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
5.7 Hard | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.8 ~5.7 | ★★ Know When to Hold'em | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 3rd Jul 2023 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.10d | ★★★ Arriving Somewhere (but not here) - with Bartski | 15m, 6 | |||||
Not today. Maybe if I use Bart's moves, going much higher to the right on the ramp and then push off if it with the right hand...
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5.9 | ★★ Little Lion Face - with Bartski | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Could use a brushing but it's fine to climb it. For now... I wish more people came and tried lower cliff. It would help keep it cleaner and it's worth it.
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5.10a | ★★ Slab o' Doom 2.0 - with Bartski | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Randy Moss - with Bartski | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Getting a bit dirty, but still fine to climb. The holds are clean enough.
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5.9 | ★ Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle - with Bartski | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Mercy Street - with Bartski | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Happy to get it today
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Sat 18th Jun 2022 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Know When to Hold'em | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
5.7 | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.9 | ★ Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Randy Moss | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hard for a 5.7. Though, that might have been the humidity.
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5.10a | ★★ Slab o' Doom 2.0 | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
One take, found the foot-hold, continued clean.
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5.9 | ★★ Little Lion Face | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Bunch of falls on this while I tried to work out the beta at the crux.
The hardest move on this is probably about as hard as the hardest move on Slab-o-doom, but SLab-o-doom has a lot more of those moves in a row. Still, I think this is a solid 5.9+. Just wish The Crag would let me set that as a grade. |
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5.10b | ★★ Metamorphic Delicacy | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Definitely harder than Slab-o-Doom; so 10b seems fair.
And some of the holds are really sharp. Actually, that's Lower Cliff -- generally the sharpest rock at Lac Sam. |
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Sat 7th May 2022 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Randy Moss - with Kate Hunt | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Little Lion Face - with Kate Hunt | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
5.7 | ★ Giggles - with Kate Hunt | 20m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 24th Apr 2022 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Randy Moss | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.7 | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
Thu 1st Jul 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Slab o' Doom 2.0 | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Randy Moss | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Diggy Diggy Hole | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.7 Hard | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Left Out | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Diggy Diggy Hole - with David Gibbs | 18m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Left Out - with David Gibbs | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Did the start right of the big block.
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5.7 | ★ Giggles - with David Gibbs | 20m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 25th Jun 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Good Intentions - with Isabelle Scott | 22m | Crap | ||||
Sun 6th Jun 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle - with Bartski | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10a 5.10b | ★★ Metamorphic Delicacy - with Bartski | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Might be a 5.10b.
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5.9 | ★★ Left Out - with Bartski | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Some big chunks of rock still needed to be removed but we were able to do it safely and I got a clean FFA. Tricky and interesting!
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5.7 | ★★ Randy Moss - with Bartski | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
5.7 | ★ Giggles - with David Gibbs | 20m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
Got rid of the worst dirt. I hope it stays cleaner...
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5.8 | ★★ Know When to Hold'em - with Bartski | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tricky opening move and then fun easy climbing all the way up. My rope did not reach the half-way mark so it's under 30 metres long. Probably about 25m.
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5.7 | Stairway to Hell - with David Gibbs | 22m | Don't Bother | ||||
Needs to be converted to a sport climb. Dirty.
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5.10a | ★★ Mercy Street - with Bartski | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pulled the opening easily this time even though the jug hold has come off of it!
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5.10a | ★★ Slab o' Doom 2.0 - with Bartski | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Little Lion Face - with David Gibbs | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Toproped this with beta from the FA herself! Fun moves, intricate sequences.
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5.7 | Stairway to Hell - with David Gibbs | 22m | Average | ||||
Okay this was alright on toprope but a bit airy on the top and the bottom is a bit crumbly. Would recommend a helmet. Not that I always wouldn't but here in particular.
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5.8 | ★★ Know When to Hold'em - with David Gibbs | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Challenging beginning where I did a no feet move. Then fun trad following.
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5.7 | ★★ Randy Moss - with David Gibbs | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really liked this fun line with a dihedral.
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5.7 | ★ Giggles - with David Gibbs | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The extra bolts are much appreciated. Still a bit of dust and things on it. A good route!
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5.7 | Stairway to Hell | 22m | Don't Bother | ||||
Started the lead on gear... ran out of gear placements, and at 5m run-out (ledge fall), had someone scramble to the top and drop a rope to me. Finished it clean on the TR.
Not currently recommended for leading -- adequate TR< should end up contributing some climbing (and anchor) to a decent sport climb. |
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5.7 | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
More dirt had accumulated making this harder than it needed to be, but Simon brushed it. Again.
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5.8 5.7 | ★★ Randy Moss | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Much better than I remember it being -- solid climbing throughout.
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5.8 | ★★ Know When to Hold'em | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 16th May 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Metamorphic Delicacy (Skunked) - with Kate Hunt | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really fun technical moves. Sustained for the most part.
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5.9 | ★★ Little Lion Face - with Kate Hunt | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
The first half is really good. The second half is ok.
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5.7 | ★★ Randy Moss - with Kate Hunt | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Found it harder than 5.7, probably because I was hauling up a drill...
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Sun 11th Apr 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Slab o' Doom 2.0 - with David Gibbs, Su A. Alteen | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very happy with how the route works out after bolting it. A bit of cleaning required where I didn't anticipate hands would want to go...
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5.7 | ★★ Good Intentions - with David Gibbs, Su A. Alteen | 22m | |||||
If it was clean it would be even more fun...
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5.10a | ★★ Mercy Street - with David Gibbs, Su A. Alteen | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Disappointed I couldn't pull the crux, but surprised how fun the whole thing is. It's convincing me that in terms of consistent and climbs Lower Cliff delivers.
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5.7 | ★ Giggles - with David Gibbs, Su A. Alteen | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.9 | ★ Dave Direct - with David Gibbs, Su A. Alteen | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I look forward to leading this after I put a couple of bolts in as agreed. YOU HAVE TO GET THE ROPE OVER THE OVERHANG fairly straight up or rope drag will kill you. That makes Dave direct the preferred option for me...
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5.7 | ★★ Good Intentions - with David Gibbs, Simon McMillan | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Toproped this looking at the trad gear, unclipping it and clipping it on the way down as a redirect. Enjoyable climb through part of "Stairway to Hell" and then going right and up to a tree anchor. Cool adventure.
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5.7 | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Could use some more bolts, which I expect Simon will do.
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5.8 5.9 | ★ Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
The 5.6 grad on this was a mite mad -- definitely harder and more committing than that. Still a tough and heady lead -- but a couple bolts in the dihedral where I sling the tree (twice) would be a good improvement.
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5.10a | ★★ Slab o' Doom 2.0 | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Red-point for the opening crux... on-sight for the extension.
I was very happy to get the start clean -- though my fingers weren't quite as happy with me. Some small, sharp, crimps. |
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5.7 | ★★ Good Intentions | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
Was planning to re-climb Stairway to Hell, but after pulling the initial section, instead of heading right, I spotted a lovely hand-crack to the left, so I decided to head up to it and climb it. I had...
And the road to hell is paved with... |
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5.10a | ★★ Mercy Street | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
After seeing Simon struggle with the initial pulls over the roof, I didn't think I'd get this -- but apparently I found some beta that worked for me, and got it clean, though not without a struggle.
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5.10a | ★★ Slab o' Doom 2.0 (Slab o' Doom) - with David Gibbs, Simon McMillan | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Did a lead flash of this with draws hung by Simon. Was really impressed by the consistent slabbiness with crimps and an interesting traverse and toprope at the end. Yay!
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5.9 | ★ Dave Direct - with David Gibbs, Simon McMillan | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Enjoyed seconding after David slung trees and completed the original "Dave, Dave" route. Found the direct corner part a bit challenging and did a likely inneficient sequence back to the face.
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5.7 | ★ Giggles - with David Gibbs, Simon McMillan | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Did this on toprope as the warmup due to the runout. Fun moves, and good to work on slab with features.
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5.10a | FA ★★ Mercy Street - with David Gibbs, Simon McMillan | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
FFA. Honored to have completed the first free ascent on sport route today on Simon's project - thanks Simon! Really enjoyed the cruxy overhanging problem before the interesting featured slab.
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★★ Devil's Ladder - with David Gibbs, Simon McMillan | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Climbed this on Toprope after having climbed the variant of Stairway to Hell. Really enjoyed this challenging and powerful sequence.
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Jul 2014 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Slab o' Doom | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Little Lion Face | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.7 | Stairway to Hell | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
Lots of loose rocks after the first ledge. Nothing to worry about but still something nice to keep in mind.
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5.7 | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | |||||
5.9 | ★ Dave Direct | 25m, 2 | |||||
Sun 29th Jun 2014 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.6 5.9 | ★ Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Lead it again -- found another couple gear placements in the (previously thought to be) run-out section. Both small (including a white tri-cam) but ok.
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Sat 7th Jun 2014 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Lower Cliff | |||||||
5.9 5.10a | ★★ Slab o' Doom 2.0 (Slab o' Doom) | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Love this climb. Cant wait to lead it when it gets bolted.
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5.7 | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | Average | ||||
In my approach shoes. Makes for a much trickier climb and makes you miss those little edges.
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5.7 | FA ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | Average | ||||
FA. Some people have complained the 3-4 bolt is a bit far spaced. Its not.
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