Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 12th May 2024 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
La Petite Folie | ||||||
5.8 Hard | ★★ (new 2020? sport slab) | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a | ★★ Colonel Kirtz | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Short but hard.
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5.9 | ★★ Hanibal Lecter | 10m | ★ Good | |||
5.4 | ★★ Encore! mon lapin | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 12th May 2024 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Controverse | ||||||
5.5 | ★ hiroshima | 30m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Actually climbed this as Hirosaki -- gear up the opening section, then past the intermediate anchor on the bolts from Nagasaki to finish on its anchor.
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5.6 | ★ nagasaki | 20m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Climbed this as Nagashima -- first three bolts of Nagasaki, then switch to the bolted (formerly trad) section of Hiroshima.
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5.8 | ★ friction constitutionnelle | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ controverse | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.5 Hard | ★★ Le Marchand de Sable | 16m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
5.8 | ★ Le Retour des Loups-Garous | 20m, 6 | Average | |||
5.8 ~5.9 | ★ Le "Speech" de Gaétan | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lots of wet on it, made it noticeably harder than 5.8
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5.10a | ★★ Pathfinder | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
sigh one fall at the crux.
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5.7 ~5.8 | ★ La Belle de Cadix | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
It has gotten more and more polished.
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5.7 | ★★ Le Castor Bricoleur | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 3rd Jun 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Le fou | ||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Coeur vaillant | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Screwed up the sequence a couple places, but I think I I got things right, I could get it clean, at least on TR.
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5.9 | ★ Lollypops - Pitch 1 | 9 | ★ Good | |||
5.10b | ★★ Maudit Fou - Pitch 1 | ★ Good | ||||
5.9 ~5.7 |
★ La valse des retraités P1
1
| 45m, 14 | ||||
Well, P1 is sport, but the crag won't let me log it that way. Oh well.
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5.9 Hard | ★★★ Cracker Joe | 11m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 3rd Jun 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
M & M | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Krakabra | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ Lezadomachos | 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★★ M&M | 23m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 10th Jul 2022 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Piglet | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a | ★★ Pathfinder | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 10th Jul 2022 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
La Vallée Perdue (Swamp Cliff) | ||||||
5.6 | ★ (crack line) | 23m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 10th Jul 2022 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
La Vallée Perdue (center left) | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ (slab and roof) | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Lots of hang-dogging.
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5.8 | ★★ (another sport climb) | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.6 5.6 G | ★★ (zig-zag cracks) | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 10th Jul 2022 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
La Vallée Perdue (Farthest Left) | ||||||
5.8 | ★ (left route) | 15m | Average | |||
Fun roof, but really a one-move-wonder.
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5.7 | ★ (route 2) | 22m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Fun climbing through the first 4 (or so) bolts, but the slab finish was too easy.
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5.6 | ★ (groove and crack) | 22m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing to the first anchor; slab would have been more interesting if left with just the first bolt for the transfer to the cracks.
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Sun 1st May 2022 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Triplets | 22m | ★ Good | |||
5.8 | ★ Le "Speech" de Gaétan | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★ Frenesie | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Very hard for 5.9
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5.6 | ★ Madame la Marquise | 20m | ★ Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Chute Libre | 20m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.9 | ★ Illusion | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
5.7 | ★ La Belle de Cadix | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 6th Nov 2021 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Le sauna | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Les Glouglous | 27m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Starting to get mossy.
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Sat 6th Nov 2021 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
La Petite Folie | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Hanibal Lecter | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Went surprisingly smoothly.
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5.5 | ★ Arrêtez-le quelqu'un! | 18m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Linked with Encore!...
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5.4 | ★★ Encore! mon lapin | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Linked with Arretez...
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5.5 | ★ Lapin Agile | 30m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
"Warm up" on a cold day. Lead the first 2/3rds with gloves on to keep my hands warmer.
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5.8 | ★★ (new 2020? sport slab) | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Was a bit trickier feeling on lead than on TR, especially with cold fingers -- but went ok.
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Sat 6th Nov 2021 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Controverse | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ controverse | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
5.8 | ★ friction constitutionnelle | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 6th Nov 2021 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Arche de Noway | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Maudit Serpent | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Went more smoothly than normal -- perhaps because I was TRing rather than leading.
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Sun 10th Oct 2021 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Vertigineux | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Le Rocket | 15m | ★ Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Le Beau-frère | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.9 | ★ Conjonction de cellulaire | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 9th Oct 2021 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Antre du Dragon | ||||||
5.9 | ★ La Griffon | 25m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a | ★ La Saint-Georges | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ L'Ecaille du Dragon | 25m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ La Saint-Ambroise | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 9th Oct 2021 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Frenesie | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
5.6 | ★ Madame la Marquise | 20m | ★ Good | |||
5.7 | ★★ Le Castor Bricoleur | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 3rd Oct 2021 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.4 | ★ Kenneth le Grand Inquisiteur | 12m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
5.10a | Garantie Prolongee | 30m, 6 | Average | |||
Had to pull on a draw at the crux. The crux felt 10b+, the rest of the climb 5.9.
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5.10a | ★★ Pathfinder | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Unsustained, like main routes in the area, but some good bits.
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5.8 | ★★ Chute Libre | 20m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★ La Cha-cha des Félins | 28m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★ Piglet | 25m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Another steep one -- for the first few bolts.
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5.10b | ★★ Rav - 4 | 20m, 10 | ||||
Ugly.. really ugly. Falling off, hauling on the rope, ugly.
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5.10b | ★ Lucky Luke | 24m, 10 | Average | |||
Try to pull the crux like a crack -- straight on, finger locks, but fell. Laid-back from the left, and it just went.
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5.8 | ★ Le Retour des Loups-Garous | 20m, 6 | Average | |||
Crux went easier than previous time.
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5.8 | ★ Le "Speech" de Gaétan | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Some wet rock near the top made the finish a bit exciting.
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Sun 3rd Oct 2021 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
La Boite a Surprise | ||||||
5.8 | ★★★ La gardienne | 17m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Steeper than much of the climbing at MdA at the grade -- but very good.
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Sat 21st Aug 2021 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
La Petite Folie | ||||||
5.5 | ★ Diedre Maboul | 17m | Average | |||
5.8 Hard | ★★ (new 2020? sport slab) | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 21st Aug 2021 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Le fou | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Lollypops - Pitch 1 | 9 | ★ Good | |||
5.8 |
★★ Le centenaire (Le centenaire P1)
1
5.8
75m
| 75m, 8 | Average | |||
Sat 21st Aug 2021 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Chateau de Pierre | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Le donjon | 10m | ★ Good | |||
5.6 | ★ Le pont levis | 10m | Average | |||
5.7 | La tourelle | 10m | Average | |||
Sat 21st Aug 2021 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Les autres bières La fourmilière | ||||||
5.4 | ★ C'est fourmidable | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5.3 | C'est fourmi-fourmidable | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
5.8 | ★ Atomas: la fourmi atomique | 15m, 6 | Average | |||
5.8 | ★★ Le fourmi-lion fait le ménage | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 15th Aug 2021 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Le Retour des Loups-Garous | 20m, 6 | Average | |||
Getting polished.
As a popular "easy" sport in the Canyon, especially as it is close to the entrance, this isn't entirely surprising. But the crux is probably closer to 5.9 now than 5.8-. |
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5.10a | ★★ Pathfinder | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★ La Cha-cha des Félins | 28m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.7 | ★★ Les Funambules du Ciel | 25m | Average | |||
5.8 | ★★ Chute Libre | 20m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
5.7 | ★★ Triplets | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 2nd Aug 2021 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Les autres bières La fourmilière | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Le fourmi-lion fait le ménage | 15m, 6 | Average | |||
5.8 | ★ Atomas: la fourmi atomique | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5.3 | C'est fourmi-fourmidable | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
On gear
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5.6 | ★ La cigale et la fourmi | 16m, 5 | Average | |||
On gear
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5.4 | ★ C'est fourmidable | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
On gear
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5.5 | ★ La zizanie des fourmis | 14m, 5 | Average | |||
On gear
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5.6 | ★ Parmis les fourmis | 14m, 5 | Average | |||
Mon 2nd Aug 2021 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
La Petite Bière | ||||||
5.4 | ★ Troisième Bière | 35m, 9 | ||||
Clipped one bolt on the first "pitch".
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Mon 2nd Aug 2021 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
M & M | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Krakabra | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★★ M&M | 23m | ★★★ Classic | |||
After my first piece (which was a poor choice) popped, I lost my head for leading this.
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Sun 1st Aug 2021 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Le sauna | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Les Glouglous | 27m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Post-Covid, starting to look like a lot of lichen on it -- but all the climbed bits are just fine.
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5.8 | ★ Glory Hole | 26m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Not gotten enough traffic since Covid times, so getting a bit mossy. Mossy enough that there's a bail quick link part way up.
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Sun 1st Aug 2021 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Arche de Noway | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Maudit Serpent | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Oh, the pockets.
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5.8 | ★★★ Colombe | 40m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 1st Aug 2021 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Controverse | ||||||
5.5 | ★ hiroshima | 30m, 9 | ★ Good |