Routes as trad in Mount Nemo

About 20m left of the Bookends corner, look for a left-facing corner about 5m up the wall, below a square roof. Climb up to the corner, then to the roof, dodge it to the left, then up a short hand crack on the left side of the roof, then step right to a brushy ledge to finish.

Climb the thin left face of the Bookends corner.

Starts at number 37

Starts at number 36

Starts at number 35

Starts at number 33.

Climb the featured, but usually dirty, corner.

Climb the smaller cracks on the face right of the corner. Watch for the large loose block about 1/3 of the way up.

Starts at number 30.

Starts at number 29A.

Starts at number 28B.

Short offwidth starting just left of Mean Streak. Pull through the overhang onto the ledge left for easy climbing to the top. Two rings about 2m climber's left at the top for lowering. Fun climbing with plenty of fist and foot jams, and solid gear placements - a great intro to trad.

Steep chimney crack climbing to the top. Climber's right of Enchiridion and Ten Pound Lunker Bass.

At the top, there are rap rings about 3m to climber's right, 2m below a dead tree trunk.

Dirty gully - climb to top

15m left of Journeys End.

Located 100m south of the Lookout Tower, this is the most popular approach gully for 'Mount Nemo' 's southern area climbs.

To climber's right of Alfred Gulley. Passes to the right of a tree and ends in the notch shared by the 'traditional' gully downclimb. Convenient for a walk off or a last climb of the day.

Start at Vanna and climb right-trending ledges to the top.

Left side of Alfred’s Wall.

On the very (climber's) left of the Iguana wall with an overgrown belay area. Climb the vertical forest, trying to dodge the trees.

Walk about 15m climbers left of Is She Pretty past the steep gully on your right. This route goes up the pinnacle between the Iguana and Alfred wall.

Go about 2/3s of the way along the pinnacle and start left of the obvious arching dead tree, goes under and right of this, following the left leaning crack system up to a small roof. Pull through this on good layback holds and climb the fun and clean dihedral above. When this ends, walk right onto the big ledge and go up the blocky groove to the base of the easy(mostly unprotectable) but fun slab to the top of the pinnacle, follow this to a great belay and sightseeing spot at the very top.

Begin in the dihedral just right of Is She Pretty. Transition to the chimney and offwidth section, which gets easier as you gain height. It is possible to finish on the anchors of Is She Pretty.

Between Big O Tree and Ten - D - Nitus is a nice crack which starts very wide and soon narrows down. About mid-way up, avoid the tree from the left. It is possible to lower off the Ten - D - Nitus anchors. The climb protects fairly well.

Short trad route that provides access to the big game ledge.

Start left of number 16A.

Starts at 16B. Fun dihedral climbing up to a ledge.

Start at number 17A. Climbs to share same tree anchor as 17B. Bring long slings to sling trees at cliff top to build anchors. Then either top out and walk off or pull rope through (on clean) and rappel.

Start at number 17B. No bolted anchors, bring long slings for the big tree to build anchors at top of cliff. Top out and walk off or pull rope through and rappel off the large tree on clean.

Start at number 18C.

Climb the off-width chimney.

A hand crack 1m right of "Corkscrew Chimney" or 1m right of # 18C.

Climb widening crack to ledge. Traverse right to hidden crack which leads to top avoiding the cedars.

Start at number 18D.

Start at #19.

Climbing up to a low ledge, then up a blocky corner to a higher ledge. Move right along this ledge to the back corner with a hand-crack & chimney. Climb the crack, the chimney, or a combination of the two.

One piton popped (July 2015), so currently one piton (circa 2013) as final pro before top-out.

Between Charleston and Zoomba

An exposed and uncomfortable descent, with the worst moves being right at the top. Recommended to climb up a few times to find the holds before downclimbing.

Climb up to a right-facing corner, overhang, then rightwards to a 2nd corner, then left to the top. No anchors, and anchor building on the cliff top is awkward without slinging the cedars.

Climb the thin crack through the overhang, then up the steep face and arete above.

Climb an easy corner inside the north end of the gully.

Starts at number 23. Take the right facing corner to a ledge to its left, then climb left to the top.

Start at number 25. Climb a flake to a ledge below a large overhang, then move left and climb a corner to the top.

Start at 26a. Climb a crack just left of a cedar part way up the cliff, traverse left and wander up the easiest path.

Climb the crack just right of the cedar to a ledge under a roof, go left to avoid roof, then up.

Starts about 4m right of "Hand Over Fist".

Start just right of "Gabba" at a small, squat, pinnacle.

Start at #26B. Climb a left-facing corner to a crack, up this, then left to a ledge, then up a groove on the left to the top.

Starts about 10m right of #27, between a loose column and the wall.

Start at #28A. Scramble up to a corner, or start and belay from the ledge. Climb a large flake, then move left to easier climbing. Follow a chimney (large pieces) to top. Lower-offs.

Start below a big ledge with a cave right of number 28A. Climb to the ledge, then traverse left until it narrows; then do a layback and crack to the top.

Start at #28B.

Start at #29. Climb corners then ledges leftwards to the top.

An alternate 2nd pitch to Queen of Pentacles.

1. Climb a bit left, then hand traverse back right, then straight up the face past bolts.

Alternate 2nd pitch for "Ground Zero".

1. From the belay ledge, climb the left line of bolts. (Gear not needed for this pitch.)

Alternate 2nd pitch for "Ground Zero".

1. From the belay ledge, climb the right line of bolts. May want a piece for the horizontal between the last two bolts.

Perhaps the best 5.8 at Mount Nemo.

Starts at #30.

1. Either climb the dirty loose start to the Ground Zero ledge, or start on the ledge. Either climb cracks the left wall of the corner or the corner (dirtier, but easier) itself to another ledge. Belay.

2. Climb a small left-facing corner to a roof, step right into the main corner, and follow it to the top.

Start 2m left of #31.

Start at #31. Go up left crossing "Mephisto", then right to avoid the thin section until a dihedral is reached. Follow cracks to the top.

Start at #31.

1. Climb the clean groove to a small ledge. (5.9)

2. Climb the left-leaning corner to the top. (5.8)

Found at the top of a steep rise at # 32, with the initials "BC" painted on the rock. Another uncomfortable Mount Nemo descent gully.

Start left of the leaning pillar, by the painted number 33C. Aim for the obvious off-width (OW) crack between the fist-crack (Big F) and the left OW ('Leader's Prayer'). The first section is crumbly, but there are good placements once you hit the OW. Take a well deserved rest, and tackle the second OW section, then cruise to the top (no fixed anchors). Take some big gear (#5 possible but not strictly necessary), but there are opportunities for small and mid-sized placements as well.

This route is located left of 'Route 69', which is left of the main Cat's Tail wall. Begin by a short, stubby pillar leaning against the wall. Climb the finger crack to the overhang, exit right through the fins. At the stance, either continue directly up the blank face (cool moves but no protection) or veer right, then back left, to reach the next crack system and gain the top (bolted anchors).

Follow the fun finger-crack at the left side of the main Cat's Tail wall. The crack widens to hands, after which, head left over flaky insecure blocks (through pitons) to anchors. Beware the loose block puzzle at the top.

A short second pitch for Cat's tail. Traverse out right, then up, through many an old piton. No anchors, and few possibilities for a natural one on top.

Amazing, imposing line. Start just left of the Swan Song bolts, under the small roof-crack. Crank through two roofs to reach a bolted belay. The 2nd pitch is 5.8. After a slight left, head up until you get to the roof, traverse right and around the block (exposed and fun!) and go for the top. It is possible to use either the Graduate or Swan Song anchors. Connecting the two pitches is highly recommended and rope drag should not be an issue.

Alternate finish to Northern air. At the roof, traverse left using the horizontal crack and finish on the vegetated ledge above where the crack ends. It is possible to continue up and right to the Northern Air anchors.

This climb is located about 10 meters right of the main Cat's Tail wall. Start beneath a corner system (a left-facing one below a right-facing one). Head up through the corners to a stance beneath a break in the small roof (by a large left-facing flake). Plug in some bomber gear and head for the anchors. Note: Gear is sparse and tricky for the first 8 meters or so.

Starts at number 38.

Climb to the ledge under the obvious roof-crack. Exit through the off-width section to a set of fixed anchors. Stop there, or continue straight to the top (through the crack in the next roof (5.10a).

Climb to the ledge under the notch right of Sister Morphine. Make your way up the notch, and angle up and right to the top.

Alternate finish to Reunion: exit the roof capping the notch to the left, and finish through the crack in the roof (as for Sister Morphine) at a set of fixed anchors below the lip.

Climb to the Morphine ledge, right of the Reunion notch. use the crack (right of the painted number 39). Climb the first crack to a ledge. Exit roof using the obvious hand-crack, terminating at fixed anchors just below a few trees. (A few large pieces fell off from inside the top crack in June, 2013. The climb still goes, but maybe the grade has changed).

An exposed and committing classic. Scramble up to a corner on the right hand side of the Morphine ledge. Climb the corner, step out right and climb the technical face (bolts).

Starts at number 40.

Starts at number 45.

Climb the obvious left-facing flake and crack system up to a ledge with cedars, then up the crack above to 3 glue-in bolts for lower off.

Steep and sustained for its grade.

Starts 6m right of Camel, meets it at the ledge, where there are anchors.

Or, it can continue up the upper section of camel.

A direct finish to Jay. stay right of the Camel ledge. Make some cool moves through the blank face between the bushes on the the right and the trees on the ledge (protection is questionable). Reach the roof, place some good gear and try to figure out how to exit (a foot or two to the right). No fixed anchor, but one can be built fairly easily by looping some cordo on the rocks at the top.

Start at number 46.