Ascents in Ontario having Beta

A huge thanks to everybody who found and developed this crag!

I may be getting older, but this felt harder than a 5.9... I wasn't able to pull the second roof. There are some bolts to the right which allows you to cheat the crux.

We had a great weather(May 2024 long weekend) and our kids & their friends top roped the route.

The main line (non-extended) is definitely not a 5.10d. I think it's misrecorded here.

I thought that was part of Synergy. Would make sense since there's no proper anchor on the ledge for Synergy (can't clean and lower off from just two bare bolts).

Good route. Happy I got the finish. Could use another bolt before the anchor.

A bit dirty. I also stopped at the random first anchor, not realizing it continues. Super run out gear for that first bit (I placed only one piece)

The route is great, but it's spoiled a bit by the scary bolting at the bottom. I would suggest replacing the second bolt with a lower one further to the right, and adding another bolt between bolt 2 and 3.

Scary downclimb

Fun, easy finish to my first multipitch. Anchor hangers are after you top out and are set waaaay back from the edge. I used my rope to extend the anchor to the ledge and tied a BHK/BFK to belay my second off of. Rapping off the nose was epic

I used an alternative beta as mentioned by someone earlier. Climb the drawline, staying mostly right, until the spot where there's two hangers side by side. Clip the left one and then keep left for the rest of the climb. This variation keeps it nearly pure slab the whole pitch, making it a fun balancey romp up small hands and feet. Much more fun than the reachy arete variation by staying right. Still 5.8, and a hard 5.8 imo.

aid practice. just faffin' about

working more mp solo skills. pure faffery

Did the Kenobi start, this time of year there are little rivers running all over the rock so you have to do a lot of traversing to stay dry.

Great spot to bring beginners.

Probably a really dope climb with some cleaning, but currently pretty dirty and overgrown. did it as one pitch (mistake) rope drag was brutal. really different than anything else you’ll find in calabogie.

New project for me, feels like it's got some really exciting moves.

Hard and blind mantle over the bulge makes the crux of this climb. Requires some power, didn't have it today.

pretty hard until the crack widens, then chill

Was too tired to lead it.

sweet route, quality is fantastic no loose rocks found. Top anchor is 2 mussy hooks. really nice ledge about halfway up

About 90FT ground to anchor, doable with 200FT rope

Was a battle of inches, would love to try it again someday.

I don’t recommend climbing it on May 3, 2024 (wet around the 4th and 8th bolts) but a very cool line!

Sandbagged based off the guide book, learned the hard way but awesome climb!

Starting is spicy for the grade.

Left anchor bolt was loose, I tightened it with the wrench on my nut tool. Could likely be tightened with a wrench.

A weird one, not a fan of the rope drag.

Favourite of mid-cliff, low crux is a bit technical, high crux is mostly mental.

Tough if you don't know where the jugs are, super fun if you do!

It is a really good route and I'd give it 3 stars after climbing spring in red river gorge, but it is not a 12b in any reasonable universe. Can be compared to Antigravity, so 12c/d.

2024/04/21

Lost my feet and then my strength.

Almost got it. Just a slip at the second bolt.

Actually climbed the bottom part of the 5.7 next to it as that was dry, and the top of this one

Felt way harder than 5.7. Low friction

Had no idea Kelso had such a long quality line! Fumbled through the pumpy crux but managed to hang on (barely). May be harder than 11b

Good lesson in beta-finding with no chalk on any holds! Cryptic and technical. Quality climb! Sooo close on my second go but lopped off on the top crux. Good reason to come back to Kelso some day.

yikes. would be nice to plug the actual roof, but no

soft, like escarpment 5.3. can do it in Nikes. good beginner lead, obvious pro.

Tightened all bolts and gave the route a good scrub. She's ready to go for the season!

Personally I feel the crux moves below the anchor are deserving of the 10a grade. I’m curious to get a few more opinions on it this year 😊

Awesome✨