Ascents in Québec having Beta

Super nice

Fun and nice warm up

Was wet in the first crux section, so had to avoid that to the right.

Driest route of the day - only the start (easy) was wet.

Notch through first bulge was wet, so had to divert to the right. Not easier, just drier.

Was wet in places, but mostly places that didn't matter.

Climbed the start of Ovipositor, until the roof, then escaped left onto Sunday Morning Stroll.

The usual, bringing someone up so they can leave.

C'est écrit mix je crois mais c'est trad totalement jamais vu d'anchor sur la voie et 2 scellement pour finir note de protection : grosse cam au début de 2 à 4 ensuite des nuts et petite cam metolius de 1 à 5 et voie tout de meme demandante pour une belle 5.7 mais avec des ledge de repos

I am coming to appreciate Giggles more and more for how solid and sustained the climbing is at the grade.

If you can figure out the beta for the start, 5.9 is fair -- but it is a WEIRD start. If you don't figure out the beta, then it will feel MUCH harder. Also, might be height-dependent. We need to get a short climber to give it a try.

Could use some more cleaning, but if that is done, would be a fine route.

Like many of the climbs at Lower Cliff, a bit stiff for the grade.

Upper section is a bit dirty

The moss is Randy. Could use a bit of a scrub

Could not figure it out for the FFA, so Bart went for it and got it. After seeing him I was able to do it on top rope.

Was still a bit dirty and gear not as good as hoped.

Fun start to a day, nice Craig

Was still wet and icy. We went up to clean a deathblock from above. Protects well.

13c for short

King line for the grade. Was a battle on previous attempts, but floated through on the send!

Left hand crimp above the 3rd bolt was wet from snow melt.

Holds above the 5th bolt, on the arete, were wet from snow melt.

A little wet and some ice on the right side of the ledge by the 4th bolt. I was happy to get it clean on the first attempt of the year!

The holds on the right that I've used to clip the anchor were icy so I used holds on Sausages.

Blew the move above the first bolt, lowered, then sent it.

First rock climb of the year!

Top rope solo, grimpé 6 fois

Top rope, le bas de la cascade pas formé, glace mince. Grimpé 3 fois

Maybe 11b if you wander off route a bit, to climb straight up the bolt line is possible and feels like 12b.

It is 10d if you use the block on the right and 11c if you don't.

Forth pitch is so short that I'd skip it next time. Adds one more rappel if that's how you're getting down.

There are now bolted anchors for all the pitches (according to MP, installed Sept 2022).

Moss, ice and snow

Wet and cold 🥶

1 fall at 3/4.

Seems a fun route, unfortunately soaking wet!

Had an off day.

A small portion of the flake clipped off at the top this season, sooner or later it's going to go so be careful.

I'll get the start clean next season.

Un mantle stratégique

Set up pour aller chercher la bonne prise est tricky.

Ballade

Belle dale, les prises de pieds devient tricky.