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Ionescu Rock climbing 14 routes in sector

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 30
  • Aka: 1er Etage
14
YDS
5.85.95.10a5.10c5.11a5.11c

Seasonality

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F
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A
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D

Description

The first sector of the cliff you approach as you hike up the trail.

Access issues inherited from Weir

The land is owned by Tata Communications, please do nothing that might cause them to remove permission to climb.

From april 1st to august 1st, some setors are be closed for peregrine falcons. These typically include all the center walls, ranging from Mur du Capitaine to Adagio, but it might change depending on the falcons' nest. Watch out for more info at the trail start.

The climbing is managed/insured by the FQME (http://www.fqme.qc.ca), you should be a member to climb here.

Approach

Branch off from the approach/hiking trail to the right at the sign for "Ionescu".

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.9 ★ Carnage d'Acier / Dave's Guidebook Sport 20m, 9

Left-most route of this section.

2
5.8 ★★ Peril Inoxydable / Le livre Guide Sport 25m, 8

Next bolted route right of "Carnage d'Acier".

3
5.10a La Doune Mixed trad 18m, 1

The thin crack - easier at the bottom, harder after the bolt at the top.

4
5.10d The Cat Direct Mixed trad 18m, 5

A sport-bolted direct finish to "The Cat".

5
5.8 ★★ The Cat Trad 18m

Climb the steep, but juggy, crack system below the trees midway up the cliff, then after passing the trees, angle right to share the finish up the corner and anchors with "Lister".

6
5.8 ★★ Lister Trad 18m

Layback up the right-facing edges to a blocky crack system, then finish up the left-facing corner to the anchor shared with "The Cat".

7
5.10b ★★ Kriten Sport 18m, 6

Shares the start (first 3 bolts) with "Ace Rimmer", then traverse left to the roof. After pulling the roof, proceed to the thin finish.

Bolts are bit sparser than one might like.

8
5.10a ★★ Ace Rimmer Sport 18m, 8

Shares the first three bolts with "Kriten", then proceeds more directly upwards.

9
5.11c ★★ Chest-bras Sport 17m, 7
10
Deux de Pique Mixed trad 17m, 7
11
Chateau de Cartes Sport 18m, 10
12
5.10b Romulus Mixed trad 20m, 7
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13
5.10a Cumulus Sport 18m, 6

Warning Rock: Large loose block near top

Nice route with 2 distinct crux. Get through the slight over hang with a second bolt, challenging to clip if you don't commit the move, to easier climbing and rest before getting to the anchor. The route is right of Roma. FQME setter and First ascent: Laurent Vachon Roy.

Belle voie avec 2 crux distincts. Traverser le léger surplomb avec la deuxième plaquette, difficile à clipper si vous ne vous engagez pas dans le mouvement, suivi d'une grimpe plus facile et un repos avant d'arriver au relais. La voie est à droite de Roma. Ouvreur FQME et First ascent: Laurent Vachon Roy.

FA: Laurent Vachon Roy, 18 Aug 2023

14
5.8 ★★ Mortaise Mixed trad 18m, 2

At the far right of the sector, follow the obvious dihedral. One obvious glue-in at the start, and another shortly thereafter.

Gear, past the bolts, is generally good.

FA: Sebastier Dery, 26 Aug 2023

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Guide des murs d'escalade du Mont Larose 3ème

Author(s): Pierre Cornellier, David Marche

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9782981910806

Discover what Mont Larose has to offer. The third edition of this guide includes more than 200 ice, rock, and mixed routes of all difficulty levels. Within the guide's 132 pages are detailed topos and route descriptions, maps, olour photos, and historical information to help you plan your weekend or trip. Text is in french.

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Nearby Icons

5.8 ★★ Lister
5.10a ★★ Ace Rimmer
5.11c ★★ Chest-bras

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Laurent Vachon Roy on Cumulus 5.10a - Cumulus5.10a.jpg

Thu 4 May
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