A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
- 1.
Norcan Lake
40 in Area
-
1.1.
Cave of Wonders 40 in Crag
- 1.1.1. Bivvy Cave Wall 11 in Sector
- 1.1.2. Cave of Wonders 18 in Sector
- 1.1.3. Guano Dome 9 in Sector
- 1.1.4. Upper Cliff 2 in Sector
-
1.1.
Cave of Wonders 40 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Norcan Lake 40 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 45.163915, -76.858013
summary
A beautiful lake west of Calabogie with a number of rock outcrops and cliff faces.
access issues
The cliffs are located on the traditional lands of the Algonquin people and are situated on MNR managed crownland. Please respect the land and its resources. Follow strict Leave No Trace practices. Be mindful of locals and cottagers along the gravel road: drive slowly! Respect the recommended closures during the fall hunting season. And do not risk a fire at the crags – it’s not worth it!
approach
From Calabogie Peaks head west on 508 for 9km until it turns into Hydro Dam Rd. Continue straight for another 6km until you reach the huge Mountain Chute hydroelectric dam. Cross the bridge and continue on Mountain Chute Rd. At the large intersection turn left onto Norcan Lake Lane. Continue on the gravel cottage road for 3km to an obvious pull-off on the left side just before a narrow causeway. 45.174741, -76.885498 / https://goo.gl/maps/2r4yaTs6cEUUKL5T9. Park well off the road; be mindful of folks who might show up later to use the campsite.
1.1. Cave of Wonders 40 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 45.182413, -76.858272
summary
A somewhat remote water-access crag with a high concentration of excellent sport climbs.
description
Routes here range from 5.8 to 5.14 and vary from technical vertical face climbing to full on roof traverses.
access issues
The cliffs are located on the traditional lands of the Algonquin people and are situated on MNR managed crownland. Please respect the land and its resources. Follow strict Leave No Trace practices. Be mindful of locals and cottagers along the gravel road: drive slowly! Respect the recommended closures during the fall hunting season. And do not risk a fire at the crags – it’s not worth it!
approach
CANOE ACCESS ONLY
A. From Calabogie Peaks head west on 508 for 9km until it turns into Hydro Dam Rd. Continue straight for another 6km until you reach the huge Mountain Chute hydroelectric dam. Cross the bridge and continue on Mountain Chute Rd. At the large intersection turn left onto Norcan Lake Lane. Continue on the gravel cottage road for 3km to an obvious pull-off on the left side just before a narrow causeway. 45.174741, -76.885498 / https://goo.gl/maps/2r4yaTs6cEUUKL5T9. Park well off the road; be mindful of folks who might show up later to use the campsite.
B. From the parking campsite, paddle 1.8km east across the lake aiming for the narrow bay. Look for dark red flagging tape in a tree on the right side just before the end of the bay. 45.181469, -76.863689 / https://goo.gl/maps/UQsZiZdjSER328LH6 approximate. Narrow take-out leads to a flat, cleared spot for boats.
C. The trail heads off to your left as you exit the boats. Follow the trail and flagging tape northeast for 600m. 45.182544, -76.858311 / https://goo.gl/maps/5YXPcr5PhCXjeHvi7. The trail will bring you to the centre of the Bivvy Cave Wall.
history
Alex Atkin first found the cliff faces while exploring during the winter months. A strong proponent of building and supporting the climbing community, Alex shared the location and invited other local developers out to explore the area and its potential.
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1.1.1. Bivvy Cave Wall 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 45.182811, -76.858605
description
A clean vertical cliff with a short, deep cave in the centre. Excellent, technical face climbing from 5.9 to 5.13.
approach
The approach trail from the lake will take you directly to the Bivvy Cave Wall.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ 4% Butterscotch Ripple
FFA: Matthew Edwards | 5.10a | 5 | |||||
| 2 |
Calabogie Hoagie
Closed Project | |||||||
| 3 |
★ Brown Note
FFA: Jack Kudla, 3 Jun 2023 | 5.9 | 6 | |||||
| 4 |
Itty Bitty Ditty Committee
FFA: Greg Pagano | 5.10c | 7 | |||||
| 5 |
★★ 99¢ MRE
A very fingery crux off the ground leads into easier climbing, exit left into the dihedral. FFA: KieranNorth, 22 May 2023 | 5.12a | 8 | |||||
 /de/b3/deb3e8d020878a954c49ccba9e2ddacf46b1aa7e) /34/4e/344e2a591bd8efb6f81755c1818c23609c0dface) |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 6 |
★★★ Call to the Devil
Easier start to a no hands rest, which leads to the final boulder problem before the anchors. FA: Joe skopec Set: KieranNorth, 2023 | 5.12+ | 6 | |||||
| 7 |
★★★ Crypto Geology
Full length movements using finger jugs and side pulls that flow in upper corner with positive holds. To good to be real FFA: Alexander | 5.11a | 5 | |||||
| 8 |
Live and Learn
Probably the smallest crimps at the cliff that just slowly become smaller and smaller. Route named after grigri was not properly locked in during the FA. Always do your safety checks FFA: Joe | 5.13- | 5 | |||||
| 9 |
★★★ King of Thieves
Shares the first bolt of Djinn and Juice then heads left to the left facing flake. FFA: Daniel Snelson | 5.10c | 8 | |||||
| 10 |
★★★ Djinn and Juice
A deceiving start leads to a sustained technical crux. Milk the rest that follows then fire through the sloper finish. FFA: Derek Smalls | 5.11c | 16m, 9 | |||||
/21/3a/213a8f1c21cd42d4d5b356955e643e506b8c8e64) |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 11 |
★★ Gimme 20
Low cryptic crux unlocks sustained climbing to the chains, be prepared to fight the pump! FFA: KieranNorth, 22 May 2023 | 5.11c | 8 | |||||
1.1.2. Cave of Wonders 18 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 45.182470, -76.858174
description
An incredible, huge cave with a stunning roof and face above.
approach
From the approach trail, take the path along the base of the Bivvy Cave wall to the right, up some steps and around a large boulder.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Straight Fire
Climb the offwidth in the right facing corner to the roof. Traverse right under the roof, clip the bolt, then tip toe to the anchor. Set: Jeff Rivard FFA: Jeff Rivard | 5.10b | 8m, 1 | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Direct Fire
A fun and easy alternative to Straight Fire. Shares same anchor. First bolt is meant to be stick clipped. FFA: Jeff Rivard, 9 Apr Set: Jeff Rivard, 9 Apr | 5.8 | 8m, 3 | |||||
| 3 |
Fired Up Closed project
Continues past the 5.8 Direct Fire anchors. Closed project. Red tagged Set: Jeff Rivard, 9 Apr | |||||||
| 4 |
★★ 40 Thieves
Easiest long length sport climb at cliff. Lots of holds but be sure to look around before committing to crux as it might not be obvious. FFA: Alexander | 5.10b | 22m, 12 | |||||
| 5 |
★ Snakes and Ladders
This one will make you think at 3 diffrent crux's, it's all there, be patient. Extend 4th and 8th bolt to help reduce rope drag and clip into the perma-draw on the way down to eliminate a dangerous swing when cleaning. FFA: KieranNorth, 26 Aug 2023 | 5.11b | 24m, 10 | |||||
/98/e6/98e67da1d9421d919e31fccc4f98433bf2760b40)  |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 6 |
★★ Snakeskin
Work through a very cool overhanging dihedral to gain the dirty ledge, finish by linking up and pulling the crux of "Snakes and Ladders". FFA: KieranNorth, 26 Aug 2023 | 5.11d | 22m, 10 | |||||
| 7 |
★★★ Iago's Roof
Stick clip high first bolt to protect hard moves out the cave. 3 fixed draws, then hang on through the roof traverse. Bring 7 draws + anchor. FFA: Daniel Snelson | 5.12a | 28m, 10 | |||||
| 8 |
★★★ First Wish
Climbs the first 4 bolts of the route going towards the roof, but then follow the bolts going left on the jug traverse. Then finish on Iago's Roof. FFA: Joe | 5.13a/b | 30m, 11 | |||||
| 9 |
★★★ Second Wish
Climb up to the huge roof. Traverse left under the roof where the final crux awaits. Finish off on Iago's Roof. FFA: Joe | 5.13d | 30m, 11 | |||||
| 10 |
Third Wish
Open Project. Climbs straight through the huge roof. Bring every tool in the toolbox for this project. | 5.14 | 14 | |||||
| 11 |
★★★ Magic Carpet Ride
Start just left of “Smoke and Mirrors”. Same start as the roof open project, but at the third fix draw continue to traverse through the steam of jugs. Links into “ Iago Roof”. Super fun jug pulling! FA: Joe skopec | 5.12 | ||||||
| 12 |
Open project2
Starts just left of “Smoke and Mirrors”. Clip the first 3 fix draws and then go straight up through the huge roof. Set: Joe skopec | |||||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 13 |
★★★ Smoke and Mirrors
Very tricky beta for the first half of the route. Then the huge roof becomes even more smoke and mirrors non sense. FFA: Joe | 5.14- | 30m, 11 | |||||
| 14 |
★★★ Open Sesame
Climb the thin crack towards the huge roof. Climb through the roof while trying to open an elevator door on bad crimps while being upside down. Hit the lip and pray your core hits in. Then crimp your way through the vertical top. FFA: Joe skopec | 5.14b/c | ||||||
| 15 |
Open Project
Starts just left of “Rajah” and has the same finish as Rajah. There is a random bolt out left half way up. This bolt will be removed or a route might be bolted out left one day. | |||||||
| 16 |
★★★ Rajah
Pumpy moves throughout the overhang to a slab crux mid way. Make sure to use the clip the chain to the climbers rope while cleaning the draws to prevent the rope from sliding across the cliff. FFA: Joe | 5.12b | 25m | |||||
| 17 |
★★★ Xerxes
4 bolt warm up, then 5 bolts of power endurance through the left leaning crack and roof. FFA: Darya Schedrina Set: Daniel Snelson | 5.12c | 25m, 12 | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 18 |
★★ Riff Raff
A fun slab crux, which leads into big jug moves over the roof. FFA: Joe | 5.11d | 25m, 11 | |||||
1.1.3. Guano Dome 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 45.181976, -76.858156
description
The right end of the cliff contains a number steep climbs and roofs. The name is thankfully now a misnomer after some scrubbing!
approach
Keep heading right out from under the roofs past a large hanging cedar 30 feet up to an inside corner with an obviously cleaned and bolted line on its left side.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Street Rat
Excellent climbing with a few different styles thrown in. Some thought-provoking moves up to the roof, then a bouldery pull onto the face which gives the route it's grade, before some slightly easier but more technical work to reach the anchor. A great line that should not be overlooked! Set: Alexander FFA: Mathew Channer, 27 Aug 2023 | 5.12b | 20m, 10 | |||||
| 2 |
★ Phenomenal Cosmic Power
Start on slab going right then left following the weakness in the cliff towards the corner. Pull over hang to gain into off-width. Can be done with a basic rack but always fun to place a #6 FFA: Alexander | 5.8 | 20m | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Rugman's Whip
Climb the slab to the roof. A series of powerful moves on crimps leads to an exposed mantle before the anchor. Find some feet and go for it! | 5.12b | 7 | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Genie, I want you to make me a King
Start up the crack up to a bolt. At the ledge, go up the very short face on the right with a bolt. Climb through the roof on fantastic buckets! Anchors can be found after topping out the roof. Enjoy! Stick clip to second bolt is recommended. FFA: Julien Santini | 5.10c | 6 | |||||
| 5 |
★★★ King Julien
Start below the first roof or in the easier corner to the right. Keeping to the right of the bolts, make your way through the face while using the crack in the corner. A great rest prepares your for what’s to come. Fire through the second roof in disbelief of the spectacular sequence required to reach the slab above. FFA: Julien Santini | 5.11 | 9 | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 6 |
★★ Damned if ya DEET. Damned if you don't
Step - or hop - off the boulder to begin. A techy start shifts to steep juggy climbing before a committing roof move. Be patient and find the best path, but don't linger too long! FFA: Derek Smalls | 5.10d | 12m, 6 | |||||
| 7 |
★★★ From South of 7
Thin moves off the deck get you to excellent holds on steep terrain. Clip a high bolt at the roof and tip toe left on small feet to find a weakness to the top. FFA: Derek Smalls Set: Jill & Derek Smalls | 5.10c | 14m, 7 | |||||
| 8 |
★★ Wake up and smell the hummus
Extend the 4th bolt at the roof. FFA: Daniel Snelson | 5.10b | 15m, 6 | |||||
| 9 |
★ Abu's Overhangs
At the right end of the cliff. Head up the slabby corner crack to some short overhangs. Pull up and through to a good stance before diving into the corner that's a little awkward until you find what you're looking for. Mantle onto the slab above towards the anchors. FFA: Frank | 5.10a | 6 | |||||
1.1.4. Upper Cliff 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 45.182039, -76.857770
description
A short cliff band above the main cliff. Potential to offer some chill sport climbs to make it a family outing. Use weakness in middle of cliff for top access
approach
Walk past Guano Dome and continue right past the right end of the cliff. Head up hill through a slight gully. Head left towards the top of the cliff. Then walk back from the cliff's top 50m.
/b6/0e/b60e28e463d85653d44b1918ed122204f0530c5b) /c1/c4/c1c422752c30e10f8947dc9beab85830bc1d07af) |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Genie Jams
Fun short hand crack FFA: Matt | 5.7 | 5m | |||||
| 2 |
Gnarberry
Short crack but the fist jams don’t get better. FFA: Alexander | 5.7 | 5m | |||||
