Routes in Northern Ontario

Climb the prominent arete as seen from start of boulder field trail to Outward Bound area. Stay to right of arete for the most part. Climb to face of and top of pillar finishing up and over short head wall.

Short for Climb Not Named. One of the best splitter hand cracks around.

First pitch has some loose rock but second pitch is $

First bolted line climbers left at the gully

Missing bolt R/X

Climb first 4 bolts of The Drifter and break right to crack

Hand to offwidth crack

Mixedl gear to 0.75

Slap your way up the free standing pillar. If you're under 5'10 the crux in harder.

Unsure where start is or how many bolts

Begin up hand crack pulling the small roof, and then continue up hand crack to where it blanks out. Traverse right on good footholds to reach the next crack system. Continue up the tight hand crack to a stance then pull through good holds with small gear to bring you to the top. Rappel back down from the bolted anchors

0.3-0.5, x3-4 0.75, x2 #1-#3, #4 C4, 6-8 alpine draws

Found in the corner left of Time Dilation (Between All Dressed and Tips crack). Begin by standing on pedestal and start up finger/tight hand crack pulling small roof to gain a good stance. Some ‘technical’ gear placements get you through the flaring section to a hand crack. Pull the bulge and then the off-width chimney action begins. Rappel down route (30 meters)

0.3-0.75, extra 0.5, #2, 3x #3, #4, 2x #5

This beautiful corner can be found between All Dressed and Tips Crack. Start up corner utilizing small crack and jugs to gain a large ledge at base of the corner. Continue up left facing corner with great movement utilizing the odd foot chips on the face and arete. (30 meters) Anchors on the face or pull the lip and rappel down General Anesthesia (Climbers left)

Double rack #0.3 to 0.75, #1, #2. Load up on extra 0.5

Two bolts to gain a ledge then climb the splitter tips crack to the anchor

Double crack system left of 'Nothing Shocking'

Gear to #4 C4

A little dirty, a little loose at the top. Around the corner from Finger Lickin'

Start at the lower left portion of the cliff, climb diagonally up and left along the obvious crack towards the start of the large dike running diagonally up and rightwards across the face. Do the rising traverse along the dike, until reaching the overhangs at the right end, then turn left again and climb to the trees. Belay on gear where convenient -- breaking into two or three pitches depending on rope drag.

On the left side of the wall, look for the left-most white streak and bolts on the slab above below this white streak. Climb directly up, supplementing bolts with gear. Has ring-bolted anchor for belay and top.

Pitch 1: (5.7, 29m). Climb up face past 2 bolts, over a depression, then past another bolt to the anchors. Pitch 2: (5.7, 22m). Continue up past the flake onto the face (bolts and gear) to the top anchors.

Start on the lower left, traverse the smooth face staying below the dike of "The Upper Dike". There are occasional bolts, but also long runouts.

This route goes up the once-cleaned, but now re-lichening face right of "Bowels in Transit". Starts up some initial steep terrain to the slabs above.

Starts below the overhang with a few steep moves on positive holds to a bolt, then through lichen to another bolt. Either lower-off at this point, or go up to the first anchors of "This is Indian Land".

As you come around to the climbs that start under the overhang, this is the first clear ramp, rising upwards to the right, with bolts on it, coming to a nearly vertical section of the roof.

Pitch 1: (5.7+, 5 bolts, 35m) climb up through the overhang and up the slab to anchors. Pitch 2: (5.7, 3 bolts, 35m). Continue up the slab above to the top. May want some gear to supplement bolts on the upper face. Pitch 2:

Starts farther to the right than "This is Indian Land", but similar -- though the roof is trickier to pull. Finish at either the first belay for "This is Indian Land" or the belay at the start of "Overdrive". Then, choose a 2nd pitch...

Start around the corner to the far right, bypassing the overhang by climbing up to it and going right around it, then up a bit, then back left to step up onto the upper face (bolt), then trend diagonally up and left along the ledge/crack system. Stop at a belay for any of the upper pitch choices: "Ode to Rambo", "Overdrive", or "Neutron Dance". ("Overdrive" probably the best choice., about 40m to the "Overdrive" anchors.)

Climb the low-angle dirty slab on the far right of the cliffs for 40m, then go up the overhang.

From the right-bolted belay (start of "Overdrive") follow the weakness trending up and left across the upper pitches of "This is Indian Land" and "Amstel" to finish at the top anchors of "Bowels in Transit".

From the bolted belay (fat hangars, suitable for lowering), climb up the obvious scrubbed rock above, supplementing the 3 bolts with gear.

From a poor belay (optional) on "Standard Route", climb up the face above to easier terrain. Supplement the 3 bolts with gear as desired.

There is an optional, not recommended, A1 20m 2nd pitch.

P1: 18m, sport, 511b P2: 30m, mixed (bolts & gear), 5.11c.

P1: 5.8, 20m P2: A2, 35m P3: 5.5, 15m

P1: 5.10d, 45m P2: 5.10a, 20m P3: 5.8, 30m

Gear to #5, bring a few extra #3 for P1

P1: 5.9, 40m P2: 5.10c, 30m P3: 5.5 30m (or straight up, 5.8 slab, 25m)

Pitch 1 on a 100m wall.

P1: 5.10b, 35m P2: 5.11a, 40m

Not recommended.

At the left end of the main wall is a steep corner. Climb up the corner past bolts. Interesting moves and body positions.

Most of this route is now gone as a result of rock fall.

To the right of Jimmy Got Gat. Up the the slightly overhanging face past thin crimps and a sloper. Is a ice climb in the winter so it can be wet anytime during the summer.

P1: 5.11c, 40m P2: 5.11b, 20m

P1: 5.10c P2: project

P1: 5.11, 40m P2: 5.8, 30m

(Or 5.8 A1)