Ascents in South-Western Ontario

2024/04/21

Felt way harder than 5.7. Low friction

Had no idea Kelso had such a long quality line! Fumbled through the pumpy crux but managed to hang on (barely). May be harder than 11b

Good lesson in beta-finding with no chalk on any holds! Cryptic and technical. Quality climb! Sooo close on my second go but lopped off on the top crux. Good reason to come back to Kelso some day.

yikes. would be nice to plug the actual roof, but no

soft, like escarpment 5.3. can do it in Nikes. good beginner lead, obvious pro.

Came across a little bat hanging out in a crack near the top

Nice warmup. Route was a little wet from the snow/rain over the last few days. Crux is a fun move. Foot is good even while wet.

Was a nice warmup. The top can be climbed with just friction, if you desire to make it harder.

Kept falling at the crux - crux is about 2 bolts up. The needed crimp was a bit slimy and I was just gassed at that point.

After that crux, climb is enjoyable.

Route is graded 5.10b in the guidebook, have listed the grade as that. Guidebook also mentions was originally a 9 but a key hold is missing, thus the upgrade.

We found some wasps/hornets having a feast on ladybugs at what would have been a really nice hold. Lots of side-pulls, and everyone that climbed it in our group had a foot slip at the same point.

Really fun climb though!

Gonna count this as an onsight. Belayed a friend up it last year - don't remember a thing about his run.

The holds near the bottom 2-3 draws are a bit dusty/dirty and you definitely want to stick clip this one. Past that point, a great climb!

Continued on to the second half of Be a Mentor. Good climb!

Cleared out the winter cobwebs

This route's grade is so far off. I know that Sean Sullivan ripped a hold off last year - it's not what it used to be. Either I know bad beta, or you have to hump the nose while searching for a blind 2 finger pocket on the right, with simultaneous heel hooks. It's crap, don't bother.

It's somewhere between as hard as or JUST easier than PD. Good climbing!

Marked as a Redpoint, but possibly a flash - if I've previously climbed it, that was at least a year ago and my memory is hazy.

Either a Redpoint or a Flash - if a Redpoint, I last climbed it a year or two ago. Fun climbing. Marked as a Redpoint so I don't "cheat".

I would say this is MUCH easier than Crystal Palace

Had a bone to pick with this climb - last year I couldn't figure out the high left foot crux. This year, was super easy. Move felt great.

One spot that makes you think a bit, otherwise nice & easy. First time on this route this year.