Routes in Laurentides

Hard

A nice affordable face on the left side of the Three Sisters’ Wall. Mixed route with 3 bolts, standard rack up to C4 #2, retrobolted rap/belay station.

Watch out for ledges falls

This errosion crack was filled with black earth, it took forever to clean.

Folow the micro crack right of the glue-ins of Bricks are Heavy, at the small roof traverse right to the ledge, climb the big left facing diedral, continu to the top vertical wall by the left and exit on the ledge at the v crack (crux). Was climbed before Überhang was bolted.

Location

Between Bricks are Heavy and Brothers in Arms, rap from trees

Protection

full trad, no anchors, micro taper nuts to C4 #5

Start in the small roof and follow the face until you reach a small ledge finish the line in the big crack.

Tricky start right underneath the small roof left of the tree. The route is equipped with two relays 1.5m away from each other for a reason: the route is 5.10a, but the last move is a solid 5.10d.

Last climb to the right of the sector, starts right behind the tree very close to the wall. Using the tree is permitted. Slightly run out toward the end. Easiest route of the sector.

4 bolts and a anchor equipped with rappel ring. Short and nice small roof to pass. The crux is the roof.

Hard, less flashed then Chérubin...

Traverse that starts right of Rêve orange to the belay of Chérubin

Link-up Aborigène to Chérubin

Link-up from Chérubin to Aborigène. The name appeared on the web in 2010

High and exposed first bolt. Stick clip recommended. Fun route with overhanging action, creative moves and big jugs! 5 of the 7 bolts used to be equipped with permadraws, they've been removed but chains they were attached to remain.

Clip Stick recommandé !

Originaly a project in mix that was climbed in trad. The route would need bolt(s) at the end because there is no protection... Open project again!

Leftmost route in this section. The first half is a good 5.7/5.8 warm-up; the 2nd is a boulder problem at height.

1. 5.8. Climb slab past 6 bolts to an anchor 13m, 6bolts.

2. 5.10c Scramble to the base of the roof, then climb up and over to a second anchor. 13m, 5 bolts.

Run-out from last bolt to anchor. Very loose hand sized block at the right just before the anchor. Parasite route of Carmen, uses same anchor and is 4 feet to the left on a 100 m wide wall.

Recommend repelling as rope can get caught in loose block on lowering.

Second route from the left, situated in the center of the sector. The guidebook shows that it shares the anchor with Bruno, it would be more natural to continue straight into the finish of Parcours d'ange. Still, the route lacks of its own character and melts into its neighbours.

3rd route from the left, situated in the center of the sector.

Very thin corner/crack leading to a sloping ledge, then an overhanging hand crack. This route does not look cleaned, but there are anchors at the top.

Not sure of the grade or route history. Please update if known. The bottom crux section might be slightly easier once cleaned.

At the left end of the cliff, look for a line of bolts up fairly smooth looking face, with a horizontal crack about 3m up.

Slightly right-sloping crack up the face near the left end of the cliff.

Starts up the same crack as Jos-Bras-de-Fer, then branches right and follows bolts to the top.

May no longer be climbable -- boulder that held anchors is lieing at the bottom of the cliff, and I think as of 2012 one or two bolts are, also, missing hangars.

Look for a stepped rock heading up with bolts on the face. Climb the steps to the top. Anchor on tree(s). (A couple trees hanging over the top edge have slings on them -- but they looked pretty tatty when I climbed it late August 2011. I chose to anchor on trees back from the edge.)

(Book [2009] says 6 bolts, but diagram only shows 4, and I think I only saw 4 on the cliff in summer 2011.)

edit - 8-27-2012 - 98 percent of routes at La Paroie du Lac are natural anchors (ropegunner)

Climbing up the easy stepped rock to the right of "Tatanade" to a pair of bolts. Continue up the ramp left of the bolts then around right above them. (Going directly up the face where the bolts are is at least 5.10+.)

(Guide says 4 bolts, diagram shows 3 but lowest doesn't exit; only 2 are in the rock. Anchor on tree(s).)

At the base, there was a waist-height separated flake, which is now laying flat on the ground. This has made the start far harder than it was -- probably 5.9+ or so.

Up past two bolts to a thin crack (gear section -- small gear needed, don't bother hauling anything big up this climb). Follow the crack upwards and right for a bit, to two more bolts. Anchor on tree(s).

Bolt line at the far right end of the cliff. Up slightly mossy steps to shelf, traverse a bit left & clip. Left of the bolts above a lip, then angle rightwards following the bolts. Anchor on tree(s).

Near the left end of the cliff, look for a pair of nearly parallel right-leaning cracks that ascend the cliff. Climb these, take the right one from about 1/2 way up the cliff to the top.

Leftwards up the small finger-crack left of "Boris" to the obvious right-leaning crack that it meets in a triangle, then continue up and right to trees.

Hard 5.8. 5.8+. 5.8+++

The obvious right-facing flake and cracks with rough rock near the right-end of the cliff.

First set of bolts, just to the left the boulder pile with the projecting finger, and to the right of the huge, right-pointing flake/crack that is "Boris".

Climb the hand to off-width crack on the left side of the cliff. 5.10b if you stick to the main crack at the top, climbing the off-width section, only 5.10a if you use the 2nd crack.

Climb the thin face to the right of the crack that is "La Saint-Georges",

Climb the series of flakes up the bolt line that is to the left of the obvious shallow dihedral up the center of the wall.

There is an obvious shallow groove in the center of the cliff, with three bolts leading up to it. Traverse in to the first bolt from the left, then up the bolted section to the crack (small gear) following it up then right to the shared anchor with "La Gaillarde".

The thin crack that widens at the top, right of La Griffon.

Traverse in across the base of La Griffon, clipping its first bolt, then up the crack that starts steep and fingers and eventually both softens angle and widens to hands/big hands. Takes gear in a wide variety of sizes.

The thin bolted face between the thin crack and the large flake.

Climb the obvious huge curving flake, initially stemming, then pulling up onto the top of the flake, then proceed up the slab above to anchors.

The right half of the crack above the slab below the anchors is hollow.

This route is not in the 2009 guide book.

This route is not in the 2009 edition of the guide book.

This route is not in the 2009 version of the guide book.

This climb is at the left end of the cliff -- the left-most cleaned section of the cliff.

Start by scrambling up onto the obvious large ledge, then up the bolt line that starts leftwards before curving back to the right, to a two-bolt anchor.

Start on the ledge at the base of "Bobette Man" and follow the line of bolts leaning to the right.

At the far left (upper) end of the canyon, this large crack system starts by gently angling upwards as it traverses left, then goes to straight up, and finally curves back to the right.

THis is, also, almost never climbed, and is totally covered in moss and dead leaves. It would need at least a moderate cleaning before being climbed.

Starts out on a blocky crack that climbs up to a large ledge. From the ledge climb a left-facing corner with a crack at the back that then transitions to a right-facing corner with the same, widening as one climbs, crack at the back of it.

A few meters right of "Le Castor Bricoleur" is a steeper thinner crack, with a bolt just at the sky line. Climb up the (initially blocky), but eventually thinning down to shallow fingers crack, which disappears at the bolt, then up the friction slab above (4 bolts) to the anchors.

Starts behind a pair of trees, and ends just below a tree as well. Climb the bolt line over some thin holds for the grade.

Looking for a set of three bolts angling up and leftwards, on an almost ramp-like area of rock. Needs gear for the upper section/finish.

Look for a pair of left-arching cracks at the top of the cliff -- this climb starts below and right of them.

Climb the blocky crack to the left-arching crack and finish up and left through them. A bit run-out at the end.

While listed as a 40m climb in the guide, and it can be climbed as such, there is a 2-bolt anchor at the end of the interesting climbing at about 28m. The crack continues from there, but it is very dirty, mossy, and treed.

A variant finish for Titanicomanie which makes the route sport the whole way.

Starts below a low roof with orange rock below the roof.

Climb up pulling the roof, to technical slab climbing above, with holds getting thinner as one finishes around the top of the steep section.

After climbing to anchors, can then extend to share top/second pitch of "La Valse des Temps Modernes" (5.9) -- but the interesting climbing is done by then. About 38m to the top anchors.

Rarely dry, but good climbing when it is.

Up a wet section on bolts to blocky rock and a short crack section to (like everything else in the Grand Canyon) a slabby finish.