Nodes in Mont Ste-Marie

Cracks: from thin fingers to chimneys. Ice in winter.

The crag is on municipal land that is zoned for mixed recreational use.

Slab and right-facing groove (where a big block came out).

Hands-to-fingers crack in a left-facing corner.

5.9+ G

Crack to a ledge with a small birch, then twin cracks above.

5.8+ G.

Start in the corner where the bird-poop is. Climb up past the bird poop, angling right, to a ledge below a roof, then pull awkwardly left and then angle back right to the anchors. But, probably climb "Poop Mouth Direct".

Recleaned October 2022 resulting in a lot of loose rock being removed. The climbing is a bit different now but the grade probably remains unchanged.

5.9 G; might be 5.9+ PG if short.

Start up twin cracks to a sloping ledge, then pull awkwardly left then angle back up and right.

Recleaned October 2022 resulting in a lot of loose rock being removed. The climbing is a bit different now but the grade probably remains unchanged.

5.9 G; might be 5.9+ PG if short.

Thin climbing down low, to a steep crack above. Consider stick clipping the second bolt.

Traversing in from "Poop Mouth Direct" to avoid the start, then finish through the steep crack might be 5.10+.

Climb a crack in orange rock past a rectangular pod, then roof.

This climb was established before Doug & Nicole started development, so history is unknown. If anyone has original name or FA information, please let me know.

The top section after pulling the roof is very dirty. A thorough cleaning will be done soon!

Right-leaning wide-crack/chimney. The start is a bit awkward and may be the hardest part. But then it's fun stemming and even a bit of face climbing at the end. Protection is actually good throughout. Anchor cannot easily be accessed from above.

The large rock at/in the base of the climb has been known to shift slightly. Don't put gear behind it as it may get stuck.

Thin and spicy start up a thin crack to an easier wider crack above.

A top rope can be set on this route from the top of "More Cowbell".

The next set of climbs start from a set of ledges above the main base, called the "Flight Deck". Climb the stairs then scramble upwards for the climbs on the "Flight Deck, Back" or climb the stairs, then traverse rightwards on the fixed rope to the climbs on the "Flight Deck, Front".

The following climbs are reached by climbing up the scramble to a comfortable ledge. This is a good place to be on a hot sunny day, as there is often shade.

Lovely pair of cracks in a large right-facing corner.

Start might be V0 to establish on the rock jammed in the chimney, depending on body type (smaller probably easier to squeeze into chimney), rest is 5.8 G if tall enough to stem a lot, perhaps harder if smaller.

Having at least one #4 cam is a very good idea.

Top rope access via bolted approach anchor #1.

Short wide crack/squeeze chimney that actually faces the opposite direction from the main line of the cliff. (You are facing "outwards" when climbing this.)

This can be climbed to access the anchors for the climbs on the front of the Flight Deck.

The following climbs are reached by climbing up the rock stairs until you see the fixed rope, then traversing right along the fixed rope.

"Tiger Moth" is another excellent sunny-hot day climb, as the base essentially never sees the sun.

Climb cracks in a corner to an overhanging off-width. Bring your Big Bros!

Start as per "Widowmaker" but when you reach the off-width, escape right and finish on the "Harvard" anchor.

Slab to a widening crack. 5.8 if you use both cracks, harder (5.9 OW?) if you stay in the wide crack to the right.

Opening is a bit run-out, but gear is good once you reach the crack.

Starts at the back of the wide chimney/narrow gulley, where there is a crack system in the left wall.

Stem up the chimney, using the crack in the left wall for protection. Or, at some point pull onto the left wall and climb there for a harder climb. 5.5 - 5.9, choose your own difficulty.

Just below and right of the "Flight Deck" is a tunnel where you have to scramble down/up through a tunnel formed by boulders at the base of the cliff in order to progress right/left along the cliff base.

Boulder problem to ledge, thin crack in right-facing corner to ledge, then more of the same to choice of direct or tree finish.

Top rope access via bolted approach anchor #2.

Very thin crack in small left-facing corner, to a nicer, easier crack above with a tree in it.

Top rope access via bolted approach anchor #2.

Starting from Brown Bomber, climb up to the roof. Traverse left under the roof and continue on the upper crack of Sooth Sayer.

Crack right of Sooth Sayer. Strong bouldery pull off the ground into a few ledges, up to a thin pumpy corner. Pull the roof and go straight up (grade unknown) or pull right onto the face for easier climbing before rejoining the crack above.

"This one's called the Brown Bomber, cause when you smoke it you get so stoned you shit your pants!"

Top rope access via bolted approach anchor #2.

On the right end of the crag, after “Brown Bomber”, is a shorter vertical wall where the Parnoosh climbs are. These climbs are top-rope accessible via a bolted fixed line, which begins around the corner past the Parnoosh Wall and heads up a ramp.

Climb up the featured ramp, pull past the flake and clip the bolt to protect the final move.

Climb up the detached block, gain the ledge, pull up over the flake, follow the ramp to the anchor.

From the detached block, layback up and across the roof. Pull over the roof and climb featured rock to easier ground above.

Crack starting immediately left of the tree stump on the ledge. Thin start to better hands further up.

Crack starting right of the tree stump on the ledge.

Wide left angling crack. Shares an anchor with Parnoosh Parade.

Thin crack on the right of Parnoosh Peach. Opens up to a wider crack higher up.

Climbs about 5.9 if you use Parnoosh Peach to start. Much harder otherwise, maybe 10+ or 11-.

Short crack and edges to a ledge. Then step right and continue up cracks/flakes.

If the name isn't enough of a clue, note that you should watch out for poison ivy at the base of the cliff, and farther right along the face.

The crag is on municipal land that is zoned for mixed recreational use.

The left-most ice line. Does not always form. Can be climbed mixed if the crack on the left side is incorporated.

The short flow to the left of the gully, climb past an interesting hexagonal rock. Finish at the tree, or keep going to the top of "Gravymouth".

Climb up the gully to some tat on a tree.

This is generally a thin ice/mixed line, starting just to the right of the gully and angling left. Some years it does not form, other years it becomes part of a larger ice wall.

The main flow on the wall, usually forms very well and is often quite wet. Choose your own adventure.

Dry/mixed route follows a crack on the right-hand side of the main ice flow. On good ice years, it becomes over-taken by "White Wine Spritzer". Finish on "White Wine Spritzer".

This climb does not usually come in nicely. It can be found about halfway between "White Wine Spritzer" and "Steezie Wonder".

A bit further left past "Steezie Wonder", a short thin ice line in a corner.

This short route is another 3-5 minute hike along the cliff, just past a fallen tree that the trail goes under.

Hike another 5 minutes past "Steezie Wonder" through the shallow saddle. The route is on the left, before dropping back down into the next lower area.

To find this climb, keep hiking past "Glass Box of Emotion" for another 10-15 minutes. The area is difficult to navigate at the cliff bottom, due to trees downed in a storm.

Approach may be made from the top of the cliff as well, by bushwacking up the steep hill just to the right of "Glass Box of Emotion".