Routes in Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres for selected grade

Most often climbed as two pitches, though it is possible to make it in a long 70m pitch.

1. P1: Multiple options lead to the main parallel crack system. Follow it until the angle eases up and offers a good belay ledge.

2. P2: Follow the same crack system until a bolt, and make use of a fixed rope to reach a permanent rappel anchor on trees. The end of the second pitch is often wet after rain but the climbing is still secure. The last section before the bolt can be a little tricky to protect without risking dislodging a death bloc.

Descent

There is an intermediate anchor straight down if you don't have double ropes.

The first climb done on le Dome.

Approach

From the parking lot, walk along the road (north) until you see an obvious sign for "L'initiation". Follow the trail to the wall then left for a few meters past the "V0 one move approach boulder"

Climbing

1. 5.6 Climb straight up past two bolts, through a slabby dihedral up to a ledge with a bolted anchor.

2. 5.5 Either straight up then right or right then up to a last sab move just below the anchor ledge.

3. 5.4 Up to a ledge, then one crimpy move to regain horizontal cracks. Traverse left after the bush, then up to gain a bolted anchor.

4. 5.4 The next few pitches are less vertical until the headwall. You can basically climb anywhere and link pitches. To gain the bolted anchor, surmount a first buldge, then aim for a break through the bushes up and slightly right.

5. 5.4 Aim straight up to a bolted anchor just below where is steepens up.

6. 5.4 Up and slightly left from the anchor, then traverse right and follow a serie of slabby dihedrals to a bolted anchor just below the headwall.

7. Three options at this point: - 5.6: Traverse left to a right-leaning ramp and then back right to a bolted anchor straight above the last one. - 5.7: Climb straight up from the bolted anchor. Looks more intimidating but the holds are huge and the climbing is good. Anchor is straight above the last one. You can link it with the next pitch. - 5.6?: Traverse right to a completely alternate finish. I've never done this variation.

8. 5.5 Climb up past a bolt to a bolted anchor. This anchor (as well as other anchors on this climb) was bolted with rappeling in mind rather than belaying. You should either extend it or build a gear anchor. Or regret belaying from it.

9. 5.5 Follow thin cracks to a right-leaning ramp then straight up. Look right for the next anchor or miss it and link to the top!

10. 5.4 Climb up and slightly right after a bushy ledge to gain the last bolted anchor of the climb!

Descent

If you need to bail on this climb, there are rappel anchors every 30m so you can make it down with a single 60m rope. It is not recommended to rappel the route if you make it to the top tough since there are often many parties on this climb. You should instead walk leftwards to gain the descent trail back down to the road.

Sidenote: If you're faster than other parties on this climb, you can easily pass them without being in their way by literally climbing 5m left or right of them at almost any point.

Also plan on linking pitches, it's worth it! 1-2-3 and 4-5-6 are a rope stretchers / few moves of simul (70m rope), 7-8 and 9-10 are easily linked with a 60m

Start at the trail from Le Dome parking lot and take every left turn. Once you reach the cliff, walk left along it until the trail ends. This is the left-most climb in this sector.

This is a traversing route that angles upwards and left, ending at the anchors for l'Initiation. Walk off using the descent trail for l'Initiation.

All gear anchors, except for the l'Initiation anchor at the top of pitch four.

An excellent climb and a great introduction to the cliff. Comfortable bolted belays at each stage, and an easy rappel descent. Anchors were rebooted in 2023.

Start on a small bushy ledge below a gap in the tree ledge above, or friction up to this ledge (5.8+ unprotected slab moves, unless you grab some shrubbery.)

1. Climb slab through the gap in the trees, then up face with protection in many horizontal cracks to a bolted belay between two tree islands.

2. Continue up the face aiming towards a small ledge to the right of a larger tree island.

3. Climb down and right along the ledge for a few meters, then up over a steep section then diagonally up and leftwards towards a short headwall with a bolt in it. Pull over the headwall then step right to the anchors. Beware of rope drag.

4. From the anchor, go a bit up then left and around to avoid the steep sections. (Variant, go a bit right, then pull directly over on good holds (5.7).). Continue up slabs past a new glue in to finish at a bolted belay.

1. 35m 2. 54m 3. 45m

1. 35m, shared with Choupette. 2. 54m the crack on the right. 3. 45m.

1. 15m 2. 50m.

Start near the start of 'La Directe de l'ours' and follow the path of least resistance trending up and right following rails and broken cracks. Possibility of reaching the last pitch of 'La Directe de l'ours'.

Descent

Same as 'La Directe de l'ours'

First route climbed on Mont des gros bras.