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Routes in Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres for selected grade

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Showing all 18 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Mont Eudore-Fortin Secteur de Droite
5.9 Lucky Seven

FA: Christian Lévesque & Bryan Girard

Trad 200m
le Dôme Tour de controle
5.9 Bronco

FA: Gaetan Martineau & Jacques Lamontagne, 1979

Trad 170m
5.9 A1 Croissant de lune

FA: Jacques Lamontagne & Hugo Drouin, 2015

Trad
5.9 Rocky

FA: Normand Lapierre & Marc Beauregard, 1977

Trad 170m
5.9 Traction avant

FA: Claude Berube & Dave Cochrane, 1977

Trad 170m
le Dôme Tache blanche
5.9 X Variante du capitaine

FA: Claude Berube & Louis Babin, 1981

Trad 80m
5.9 PG Maree Montante

FA: Eric Tremblay & Alain Simard, 2010

Trad 15m
le Dôme Wet Dreams
5.9 PG Wet Dreams
1 5.7
2 5.8
3 5.9 PG

The obvious hand-crack in the sector, left of an obvious low dihedral.

2 long pitches of excellent 5.7 climbing, then a short, messy, 5.9 pitch to a bolted rappel anchor.

Climbing

  1. 5.7 52m. Climb the steep start to the obvious hand crack. Follow this to a bolted belay below a vertical section. Constant at the grade, good rack management is critical.

  2. 5.8 43m. Climb a tricky vertical section off the belay past a comfortable dirt ledge. From there, climb the face following discontinued cracks up and slightly left. You will find an old piton coupled with a slightly less old fixed nut. Either build a gear belay here or continue up the intimidating (but no harder than 5.8) roof, to a used-to-be-slung flake. Build a gear belay between the two rooves.

  3. 5.9 15m. From the used-to-be-slung flake, climb straight up to a ledge with an unstable boulder to your right. Make a few balance face moves (PG) following the right side of the arete marking the dihedral before the second roof. Traverse left above the corner to an airy, finish over the second roof leading to a bolted anchor.

It might be possible to climb the corner (minimal protection, its left side, or to avoid the roof altogether by going around to the right at the boulder. (Update required)

Originally, P1 was climbed to the dirt ledge, P2 and P3 were climbed as one pitch using careful rope drag management.

Descent

Two 60m+ ropes are required.

  1. Rappel from the fixed anchor straight down to the dirt ledge. Pull your ropes. A bolted rappel station here would help reduce traffic on busy days, as well as make the descent safer.

  2. Walk across the dirt ledge (exposed near the end) to gain slung trees ~5m above the first bolted anchor. Inspect the material

  3. 70m ropes: Rappel straight to the ground

60m ropes: Also probably possible to rappel to the ground but available information proposes to do a short rappel to the bolted anchor, followed by a full-length rappel to the ground. (Please update)

FA: Luc Martin, 1984

Trad 110m, 3
5.9 PG Chapiteau

FA: Alain Simard & Eric Tremblay, 2012

Trad 35m
le Dôme King Can / Les Toits
5.9 Gruyere

FA: Alain Henault, 1980

Trad 22m
5.9 Araignee du soir, espoir

FA: Sylvain Malchelosse & Stephane Lapierre, 1986

Trad 20m
5.9 PG La vache folle

FA: Benoit Dubois & Alain Simard, 2014

Trad 28m
Mont de l'ours
5.9 Aero

Short single-pitch climb that reaches the first anchor of 'Fantaisie Spatiale' and deserves more traffic. Bring small stoppers and Cams under #0.75 for the arch.

  1. 5.9 20m: Either climb the starting dihedral of 'Astro' or the left variant of 'Fantaisie Spatiale' into the obvious arch to a bolted anchor.

  2. Finish through 'Fantaisie Spatiale' or rappel down.

FA: Alain Simard

Trad 20m
5.9 R - X Passe-Carreau

FA: Pierre-Alexandre Paquette & Tom Canac, 2019

Trad 150m
Mont Gol
5.9 PG Gengis Khan

FA: Jacques Lamontagne & Gaétan Martineau, 1980

Trad 110m
Mont du Gros Bras
5.9 Andante

FA: Jean Pelletier & Real Cloutier, 1973

Trad 240m
5.9 Tangente

FA: Eric Tremblay & Frederic Mauger, 2010

Trad 190m, 5
5.9 Nagasaki
Trad 150m

Showing all 18 routes.

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