Ascents in Mont de l'ours

only 2nd pitch, 8+ variation

P1 of "Pinnochio" into the direct P2 of the "Directe de l'Ours".

The climb was still wet when we started so I opted for the 5.6 variant right of the OW. Nice moves. On the way down, we TRed the direct second pitch (5.8)

Swung leads with a new partner

LRS in 3 pitches with GG2 + duck backup and MT cache loop. A few practice falls at the start. Fixed a line and rappels on the left to look for new lines. Then went back up through 4th class terrain and rappelled the normal line.

Paul lead P1, then I linked with P2 of "Blues de la brosse à dents"

Swung leads with Paul who got all the good pitches (1 and 3).

Went to support Léa in leading the climb (she had previously sent it on pre-placed gear). On top of the usual wind, we were greeted with a light (but violent) snowstorm. 2-3 small falls and a few tears later, she made it and I cleaned!

Léa tried to lead it but adverse conditions brought her back to the ground at the crux. I lead it, then she pink-pointed it on my gear. I then followed it to clean. Only the first pitch.

Simul in one pitch to the top to cap off a day of 10h, 19 guidebook pitches.

Climbed in one 55m pitch.

Simul in one pitch. Very nice climbing. The starting dihedral and finish crack are the best feature of this climb.

Would benefit from a little brushing but climbing still feel mostly solid. Bring small stoppers. Can also place a few cams under 0.75.

Only climbed P1 and P2. Climbed the left variant start through the overhang. Quite fun but harder (5.10?) leads to the left anchor.

Climbed in one simul pitch. finishing in Astro's second finish crack. Felt much easier than 5.9

Simul in one pitch through the 5.7 crack variant. Lots of drag at the end.

Climbed the left and then the right variant. Both felt pretty much similar, the right variation being more fun.

Very cool movement! Constant at the grade and good ambiance. Diserves more traffic.

Good classic. Lots of wind.

Nice route, originally graded 5.8 but felt softer than that. I think I had triples in .2 to .5 but only used doubles. Smaller then .2 was useful too if I remember correctly

Nice easy ish route, be careful of the loose blocks on the first pitch

Was completely dry (surprisingly). Lots of wind. Up from the anchor instead of the usual ramp on the right. Re-lead P1 after following a different line.

The first few moves are wonderful (through the chimney) then ok climbing to a bolted anchor. To climb in three pitches: Keep climbing and build a gear anchor below the obvious crack with a nose (pinocchio). Second pitch is great and rejoins the last pitch of 'La Directe de l'ours'

Didn't climb the last pitch, having just come down from 'La Directe de l'ours'

Had done the first half and ended up off route last time.

Managed to not get lost this time! Last pitch is simply wonderful.

Beautiful climb with lots of different options. P1: Climbed up the obvious hand crack on the right. Built an anchor around 10m below the bolted anchor (didn't see it). P2: Climbed rightward to a beautiful belay ledge (around where the climb separated into the 5.8/5.8+/5.7 variant). Built a natural anchor around 10m below the bolted anchor. P3: Tried to follow the 5.8+ line but ended up in the 5.7 line. Climbed a little to much to the right and ended up off route. Belayed off of a tree. P4: Small "get to the top" easy climbing.

We reclimbed the last pitch of the route after the first rappel just because it looked so sweat. And it was! It is possible to rappel from the route with one 70m rope but not with a single 60m! Unless you leave gear or use pretty sketchy looking "trees".