Ascents in Capitale Nationale as Clean

only 2nd pitch, 8+ variation

Possible d'installer un relais par le haut via des encrages à même le rocher.

Belle fissure à doigts cassée avec quelques movements layback au début. Beaucoup de belles prises à l'extérieur de la craque aussi.

Nice jams

Went to support Léa in leading the climb (she had previously sent it on pre-placed gear). On top of the usual wind, we were greeted with a light (but violent) snowstorm. 2-3 small falls and a few tears later, she made it and I cleaned!

Simul in one pitch. PA onsight-lead the block. 24 draws (30 would be better). 46 mins ground to top. 47 mins for the rappels. Rappel beta: with double 70m 8.4mm ropes, we did a 35m single rope rappel, then 4 full lenght simul-rappels to the ground. Note that the second rappel (first full lenght) we did bypassed the anchor shared with the climb and rope stretch got us exactly to the next anchor. Make sure you understand what that implies if you attempt this method.

Followed Léa with a new climber up this. She stopped at the end of P1 (already a lot of drag) and then climbed P2-P3-P4 in one long 72m pitch. Rapelling P2 with a single 70m rope got us to the slung tree without having to unrope.

Quick lap with PA. 57m08s car to car.

Simul in one pitch to the top to cap off a day of 10h, 19 guidebook pitches.

Climbed in one 55m pitch.

Seconded Lea's first true trad lead!