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1 5.10a
2 5.9 PG13/R
3 5.8
4 5.7

description

One of the most recent additions to the Dôme's sea of texture slab climbing.

  1. 5.10a 50m: Start just to the right of "voie de rappel", climbing a strip of darker rock. Traditional protection placements can be found on either side of this strip until the crux moves which are well protected by 3 glue-in bolts. Bolted belay on the white rock about 5m right of the "voie de rappel".

  2. 5.9PG/R 50m: Climb straight up, aiming for the 2nd belay of "Tâche blanche" immediately right from the huge flake that looks like a small roof. Use creative gear placements, small gear, and perhaps some tricams to surmount these thin flakes.

  3. 5.8 30m: Walk left along the big bloc to find good holds allowing passage onto a ramp leading you back right towards an opening in the tree ledge above. Bolted belay 5m left of "Tâche blanche".

  4. 5.7 65m: Climb the slab straight up until you reach the headwall, and pass it on great holds on the left. From the plateau above the headwall, follow the diagonal cracks up and left to reach the final bolted belay that is located as high as the rock extends.

Descent

  1. Bushwhack your way to the hiking trail's end.

  2. Rappel your last pitch, then straight down to the "voie de rappel". I've seen several parties with 60m ropes skip the large flake belay. Some have made it, others were a few meters short. Pray to the rope stretch diety.

Route history

2020First free ascent: P.A. Paquet & Jacques Lamontagne

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 47.68564, -70.64082

Grade citation

5.10a,5.9PG13/r, 5.8,5.7 Assigned grade

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

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Classic
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Don't Bother
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Tick Types

Red point 1

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Tue 30 May
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