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1 5.7
2 5.7
3 5.7
4 Class 4
5 5.7
6 5.7

description

A beautiful, under-appreciated route. P1-3 are very clean, P5-6 could use a little cleanup. The following pitch description is ideal for rope drag management, communication, and crux sharing. Although it is certainly possible to climb "Sinus" in fewer pitches, the average party should stick to this.

This climb starts about 30m climber's right of "simulateur cardiaque"'s rooves. The massive "nose" between two dihedrals (second pitch) is clearly visible.

  1. 5.7 Some technical climbing following a thin flake will lead you to a vegetated dihedral (few protections available). Follow it up until you are forced to make a short traverse to the right in order to overcome a small roof (5.7). From there, make your way to the start of the right dihedral. Build an anchor on a small ledge where two pitons are available.

  2. 5.7 climb the dihedral straight through the roof (5.7) or traverse rightwards under it to an easier crack system (5.5). In both cases, you have a few anchor options. From left to right: 1. In the main crack - Uncomfortable but in line. 2. Two pitons with an old sling (add some gear) - A little less uncomfortable and a little less in line. 3. Nice ledge - Comfortable but not in line with the original line (this is actually the end of P2 of "Narine".

  3. 5.7 From the main crack, make your way up and right, passing two overlaps by the right as well as a few horizontal cracks. Altertanively, you can climb straight up from the piton anchor (5.8PG). Once passed the second overlap, find parallel cracks heading up and slightly left. These will lead you to the big ledge, you'll find a bolted anchor on a boulder.

  4. 4th class Make your way to the obvious ramp up and left. There is a nice, clean ledge just below the ramp.

  5. 5.7 Climb the obvious ramp, making use of the crack and arete. As soon as you exit the ramp, build and anchor high behind a menhir (#3/#4) or expect massive rope drag.

  6. 5.7+ Climb Straight up for some nice crack climbing passed a (very annoying) birch tree. From there, keep going until you're comfortable to unrope, bring your second up and make your way to the summit!

Descent: Take the Gros bras descent trail.

Route history

1977First ascent: Regis Richard & Jacques Lamontagne

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 47.66243, -70.63294

Grade citation

5.7,5.7,5.7,4th,5.7,5.7+ Assigned grade
5.7

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
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Don't Bother
Crap

Based on 0 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 1

Comment keywords

dry easy rest

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Tue 30 May
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