Routes in Blind Channel Crags

Arete with a bolt protecting the crux

Between Run Like a Thief and Issy's Rock. Wide crack.

Obviouse line

Strenuous fist-sized crack climbing. A hard man's route.

Sandbagged!

Cracks to the right of shiney new bolts

5 shiney new bolts

Trad route left of shiney new bolts

5.10c/d? Unknown Route 4, starts from the top of the Unknown Route 1-3. Area left of Gang of Foreplay.

5.8? Unknown Route 3 - right most climb with three bolts on the slab. Shares anchor with two other climbs. Area - left of Gang of Foreplay

5.7? Unknown Route 2 - starts with the crack and then two bolts on the slab. Area - left of Gang of Foreplay. Shares anchor with two other climbs.

5.6? Low angle crack climb leading to bolted anchors. Shares anchor with two other slab climbs. Area - Left of Gang of Foreplay.

Unknown crack climb - 5.10a/b. Start on the right leaning finger crack, finish with another finger crack. Easier option - start in the corner. Area - first climbs you see as you come up the Island in the Sky trail.

Starts on the terrace right

SR to 1.5

SR up to 4

SR to 4. Start the same as Proudly Canadian, and then right.

Arete. SR to 1.

Small aliens

Up the slab and to the left. To the intermediate chains is 11+

Up the middle slab

Up the right crack

Two variations start on the wide crack and straight up or go towards the roof and then right to the wide crack roughly same grade

SR up to 2.5

SR to 3.5

Right of Protein Eater. Up the corner crack and then move to left above the roof. Same anchor as Free and Easy/Protein Eater.

Pull stright through the roof

Highly technical slab directly above the free and easy slab.

Probably mixed route if want to protect ground fall past first bolt.start under a bolt to horizontal crag, then past a bulge to a bolt and straight up to a third bolt

Mixed route bolt to crack to obvious bolt after a bulge.

SR to 2.5, RPs

SR to 4

SR to 4

Corner crack

Main right crack

Slab between crags, avoid holding/stepping on them for full grade, I've been told 5.10b although feels more 10a

Main left crack. Tricky move off the ground 5.6/7 afterwards

SR to 2.5

Right variation of Man about the Park. At the end, cut across the slab towards an easier crack.

Up often wet corner crack past one bolt

Super fun, intimidating looking crack with amazing moves

Right Variation of Ursus Arctus

SR up to 3

SR until 2

The same start as Elsinor, then right

*Requires: Name, Descrpition, Grade

*Requires: Name, Descrpition, Grade

One of two sport routes on the small, upper crag with the rebar ladder.

A very chill warmup slab in between the iron ladder and Marjorie Mae. A few somewhat frictiony moves, but generally everything is well textured. Excellent stances make this a great route for beginner trad leaders – just remember to extend your gear.

The small juggy ledge at the top is on, but the crack is off (except for pro), and obviously the ladder is off, too. Shares the same anchor as Marjorie Mae, Tenacious, and The Cagemaster.

## Location

Right between the iron ladder and Marjorie Mae (5.5 crack) at the high upper left side of the crag.

## Protection

SR to 1.5", extended. If top roping, you may want to redirect with a draw affixed to ladder rung two or three down from the top. But DO NOT use the rungs to lead this as a sport route! The ladder rungs are not rated or designed for climbing; falling on a rung could result in serious injury. Lead it with gear, or just use the ladder to set up a top rope.

The thin corner that Y's into two parallel crack systems. Routes were combined as you can reach from crack to crack, Both go at the same grade.

Finger crack on the wall right of Riden’ with Biden

The Zip was discovered and unearthed by Blake and Ward Robinson in about 1979, and quickly became popular. (It’s the left hand crack.) For the first while there was a stump in the middle, at the jog in the crack. Anyway, the rappel route was from a tree, more or less where the blue rope is. The first time there, I noticed some interesting edges and cracks under the rappel rope, and soon after returned to clean it up – Crystal Ball, so named because it foresaw numerous other routes of its kind elsewhere in the Little Smoke Bluffs. Although TBH it does have a natural line. Anyway, having gotten started I also cleaned Riden’ with Biden, enough to climb it anyway. It’s the crack on the right. In the context of 1979 it wasn’t likely to draw crowds, even had it been buffed. Dave Nicol and I did Crystal Ball, and while he was rappelling, I scampered up Riden’ with Biden. Although as I believe that the second rule of solo club is not to talk about it, never made much of it. (First rule: don’t fall.)

Considered one of the finest 10a cracks in the bluffs. Amazing and sustained best sum it up.

Climb P then break out right towards the edge.

Straight up the slab

a great slab to learn on! 4th bolt line to the right from Naughty by Nature