Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Popularité | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Jug Slab | |||||
5.6 | Unknown
climb the corner past broken pockets to a short slab with 2 bolts. | 8m, 2 | |||
5.6 | David's
The second line from the left, face climb past bolts to the short seam at the top. FA: Jeff Thompson & Glenn Payan, 1996 | 12m, 2 | |||
5.7 | ★ Stepladder
Follow the bolts up the slab. FA: Jeff Thompson & Glenn Payan, 1996 | 12m, 4 | |||
5.7 | unknown 2
a short traverse past one bolt, then follow 4 bolts up a well-featured slab. | 8m, 5 | |||
5.8/9 | ★ Moominland
pad up the bolted line just right of center. FA: Jeff Thompson & Glenn Payan, 1996 | 14m, 4 | |||
5.7 | ★ Hamish's
Far-right side before the gully FA: Jeff Thompson & Glenn Payan, 1997 | 14m, 3 | |||
5.10c | Robin's Route
A short climb on the lower bulge. FA: Robin Beech | 10m, 3 | |||
Fatty Bolger | |||||
5.10a | ★ Rumours
just right of the gully, Boulder through a tough bulge, then climb the crack and slab to the top. FA: Glenn Payan & Jeff Thompson, 1996 | 25m, 2 | |||
5.11a | ★★ Where's Roxie
Named for a missing cat that was never found. FA: Jeff Thompson & Jack Fieldhouse | 25m, 7 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Bumper
A thin slab leads to easier climbing above. | 23m, 5 | |||
5.11a | ★★ Fatty Bolger
The oldest route at the cliff. Startup the arete then step left at the second bolt and climb the center of the wall. FA: Tami Night & Peter Croft, 1981 | 28m, 6 | |||
5.11a | ★★ The Leading Edge
Climb the right side of the arete FA: Will Dorling & Elise Hunt, 1996 | 28m, 6 | |||
5.13- | Vulture Culture
climb The Leading Edge to the 3'd bolt, then step right and climb across the undercling. FA: J. Green | ||||
5.10c/d | ★ Waning Gibbous
Climb Squeakers to the first bolt, then break out left up the arete FA: B. Green | 4 | |||
5.6 | The Squeakers
Climb the large corner to a set of anchors on a ledge, or continue up the slab to the top. | ||||
5.10a/b | Rose of Sharon
climb up the featured face to the right of The Squeakers. | 3 | |||
5.10c | ★ Beached Whale
A small face climb found a few meters right of the arete FA: Jeff Thompson & Glenn Payan, 2001 | 8m, 1 | |||
Ferret's Folly | |||||
5.11a | ★ Cold Metal
| 10m | |||
5.6 | ★ Earth Trip
| 10m | |||
5.7 | Ferrets Folly
| 10m | |||
5.9 | Green and Black
| 10m | |||
5.10a | ★ Right On Jennejohn
| 10m | |||
Burning Man Corner | |||||
Closed Project
CLOSED PROJECT: Left most crack with one bolt, currently red-tagged as of may 11 2021 | |||||
5.6 | ★★ Chicken-Sashimi
| ||||
5.10a | ★ Salmonella
Climb Chicken-Sashimi up to the blocky undercling, then break out right on the slab. Climb past a horizontal crack, then 2 bolts to the finish. | 2 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Industrial Revolution
Start on Swampton, then quickly break out left on the tricky hand traverse. Mantle up at the end of the crack and climb the slab past 4 bolts. | 4 | |||
5.9 | ★ Swampton
Climb the wide crack all the way to the top of the cliff. doubles from 1" to 3" | ||||
5.10d | Hold My Beers Variation
Climb Swampton up to the first ledge, then step right and head past 2 bolts to the anchors on the large ledge. | 2 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Right Corner, Name Unknown
Climb the slightly overhanging corner past some awkward jambs to the ledge, cam be linked with the 5.9 crack directly above. | 6m | |||
5.9 | ★★ Upper Ledge, Right Crack
From the large ledge above Swampton, Climb the left-leaning crack. Gear to 2" | ||||
5.8 | ★ Upper Ledge, Left Crack
From the ledge above Swampton, climb the Left vertical crack. | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Outside Edge
The striking corner on the upper ledge. Climb through some easy moves to the base of the small overhang, stemming and some laybacking will get you through the crux with ease. A short offwidth will land you below a pair of rap-ring anchors. | 25m | |||
The Boys of Porteau | |||||
5.10a | ★★ Pushup City
A well-textured lower slab leads to some glacier polished steps. | ||||
5.8 | ★ Do It Right the First Time
A well-textured slab leads to a small horizontal crack, then more glacier polished slab to the top. | 10m, 3 | |||
5.10b | Boys in the Wood
a steep corner leads to a slab crux finish | 2 | |||
5.10d | Naughty by Nature
A short left-leaning crack leads to a few tricky moves on the slab above. | ||||
5.6 | ★ Hydrotherapy
Start on the mellow slab to the right of Naughty by Nature, then follow the bolt line left crossing Naughty by Nature and finishing at the anchors for Boys in the Wood | ||||
5.10c | Under Pressure
Start to the right of Hydrotherapy, climb the polished slab. | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Overbolted
a great slab to learn on! 4th bolt line to the right from Naughty by Nature | 10m, 5 | |||
5.10b | ★ Megalodong
Straight up the slab | 5 | |||
5.10b | Slabby Joe
Climb P then break out right towards the edge. | ||||
The Zip | |||||
5.12b | ★★ Gaia
| 25m | |||
5.10a | ★★★ The Zip
Considered one of the finest 10a cracks in the bluffs. Amazing and sustained best sum it up. FA: Ward Robinson & Blake Robinson, 1979 | 20m | |||
5.11a | ★ Sole Proprietorship
FA: Rolf Ryback & M. Tygges, 1994 | 20m | |||
5.9 | ★★ Crystal Ball (Left)
| 22m | |||
5.10b | ★ Crystal Ball (right)
FA: D. Nicol & A. Ourom | 22m | |||
5.9 | ★ Riden’ With Biden
The Zip was discovered and unearthed by Blake and Ward Robinson in about 1979, and quickly became popular. (It’s the left hand crack.) For the first while there was a stump in the middle, at the jog in the crack. Anyway, the rappel route was from a tree, more or less where the blue rope is. The first time there, I noticed some interesting edges and cracks under the rappel rope, and soon after returned to clean it up – Crystal Ball, so named because it foresaw numerous other routes of its kind elsewhere in the Little Smoke Bluffs. Although TBH it does have a natural line. Anyway, having gotten started I also cleaned Riden’ with Biden, enough to climb it anyway. It’s the crack on the right. In the context of 1979 it wasn’t likely to draw crowds, even had it been buffed. Dave Nicol and I did Crystal Ball, and while he was rappelling, I scampered up Riden’ with Biden. Although as I believe that the second rule of solo club is not to talk about it, never made much of it. (First rule: don’t fall.) FA: anders ourom | 13m | |||
5.10a | ★★ The Road
Finger crack on the wall right of Riden’ with Biden | 10m | |||
The Sidecar | |||||
5.8 | Crackslabber
| ||||
5.7 | Smiling Faces
| ||||
5.6 | Trad is Rad
| ||||
5.10b | ★★ Sidecar
| 8m, 3 | |||
5.10b | ★ Happy Hour
| 8m, 4 | |||
No Feet Required
| |||||
5.10b | Hormonely Challenged
| 1 | |||
5.10a | Voilitle Cocktail
The thin corner that Y's into two parallel crack systems. Routes were combined as you can reach from crack to crack, Both go at the same grade. | ||||
5.9 | ★ Sunny Chibas
| ||||
5.9 | ★ Harold's Arete
| 8m, 3 | |||
Free and Easy | |||||
5.4 | ★★ Blackberry
A very chill warmup slab in between the iron ladder and Marjorie Mae. A few somewhat frictiony moves, but generally everything is well textured. Excellent stances make this a great route for beginner trad leaders – just remember to extend your gear. The small juggy ledge at the top is on, but the crack is off (except for pro), and obviously the ladder is off, too. Shares the same anchor as Marjorie Mae, Tenacious, and The Cagemaster. ## Location Right between the iron ladder and Marjorie Mae (5.5 crack) at the high upper left side of the crag. ## Protection SR to 1.5", extended. If top roping, you may want to redirect with a draw affixed to ladder rung two or three down from the top. But DO NOT use the rungs to lead this as a sport route! The ladder rungs are not rated or designed for climbing; falling on a rung could result in serious injury. Lead it with gear, or just use the ladder to set up a top rope. FA: Ryan Block & Veronica Belmont, 10 Avr | 8m | |||
5.5 | ★ Marjorie Mae
| 8m | |||
5.10b | Tenacious
| 8m | |||
5.8 | The Cagemaster
One of two sport routes on the small, upper crag with the rebar ladder. | 8m, 3 | |||
5.8 | ★ Pug for life
*Requires: Name, Descrpition, Grade | 12m | |||
5.8 | Elsinore
*Requires: Name, Descrpition, Grade | 14m | |||
5.10d | ★ Two Pinks and a Blue
The same start as Elsinor, then right | 14m | |||
5.10b | ★ Happy and Easy
SR until 2 | 14m | |||
5.10d | ★ Squirrels in Pink Panties
SR up to 3 | 16m, 5 | |||
Open project
| 16m, 4 | ||||
5.13a | ★★ Ursus Arctus
| 8m, 5 | |||
5.12b | ★★ Aim at her face
Right Variation of Ursus Arctus | 8m, 4 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Shimmering Crack
Super fun, intimidating looking crack with amazing moves | 18m, 1 | |||
5.10b | ★ Man about the park
Up often wet corner crack past one bolt | 1 | |||
5.9 | Tweet, tweet, tinder meat
Right variation of Man about the Park. At the end, cut across the slab towards an easier crack. | 1 | |||
Open Project 2
SR to 2.5 | 20m, 7 | ||||
5.10d | Living the Wet Dream
| 20m, 8 | |||
5.7 | ★★ Cragger
Main left crack. Tricky move off the ground 5.6/7 afterwards FA: A. Stevenson, E. Olson & D. Vu, 2016 | 20m | |||
5.10b | ★★ The appmaster
Slab between crags, avoid holding/stepping on them for full grade, I've been told 5.10b although feels more 10a | 20m | |||
5.9 | ★★ The Trippy Squirrel
Main right crack FA: A. Stevenson, E. Olson & R. McKutt, 2016 | 20m | |||
5.11a | ★★ The Magician
| 20m, 8 | |||
5.8 | Magical Progression
Corner crack | 23m | |||
5.10b | The Twitching Rabbit
SR to 4 | 40m | |||
5.11a | ★ The Hare
SR to 4 | 40m, 4 | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Five-star Crack
SR to 2.5, RPs | 16m | |||
5.11d | ★ Range Ball Wrecker, Record
Mixed route bolt to crack to obvious bolt after a bulge. FA: Rolf Rybak & Ian Wigington, 1998 | 12m, 2 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Let's Dance
Probably mixed route if want to protect ground fall past first bolt.start under a bolt to horizontal crag, then past a bulge to a bolt and straight up to a third bolt | 16m | |||
5.12b | Magatron
Highly technical slab directly above the free and easy slab. | 12m, 2 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Free and Easy
FA: John Howe & Randy Atkinson, 1979 | 10m | |||
5.11b | ★★ Protein Eater
Pull stright through the roof FA: Randy Atkinson & John Howe, 1979 | 10m | |||
5.8 | ★ Move on up!
SR to 3.5 Right of Protein Eater. Up the corner crack and then move to left above the roof. Same anchor as Free and Easy/Protein Eater. FA: Alan Stevenson & Erica Olson, 2015 | 10m | |||
5.10d | ★ #myass
SR up to 2.5 | 12m, 2 | |||
5.8 | ★ Insta-Graham
Two variations start on the wide crack and straight up or go towards the roof and then right to the wide crack roughly same grade FA: Alan Stevenson & Erica Olson, 2015 | 15m | |||
5.10b | ★ Pocket Change
FA: Alan Stevenson & Erica Olson, 2015 | 15m, 1 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Dance, Eat, Sleep, Repeat
Up the right crack FA: Alan Stevenson & Erica Olson, 2015 | 15m | |||
5.9 | ★★ Insta-Graham (roof start variant)
| 13m | |||
5.11a | ★ SpotDaFly
Up the middle slab | 15m, 5 | |||
5.11b | Slabchat
| ||||
5.7 | Shokan
| 15m | |||
5.12c | Project Send
| 12m, 4 | |||
5.12b | Redden's Folly
Up the slab and to the left. To the intermediate chains is 11+ | 12m, 4 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Aliens amongst us
Small aliens | 12m, 3 |